The weekly newsletter on the art of photography from
 
Monday, January 15, 2007
IN THIS ISSUE
Featured Gallery
Welcome Note
This Week's Tip
Updates From BetterPhoto
Q&A 1: Large Prints...
Q&A 2: Copyrighting Your...
Q&A 3: Slower Shutter vs...
Q&A 4: New Contest Categ...
Q&A 5: Free Admission to...
Q&A 6: Selling Prints - ...


TESTIMONIAL OF THE WEEK
"This was the best photography course that I have ever taken. We received wonderful instruction, got timely feedback and the information that I learned was priceless. Highly recommended!!!" -Student in Lewis Kemper's Toolbox for Photoshop (Exposure and Color Correction) course

LENSBABIES - SELECTIVE FOCUS SLR LENSES!

NEW CLASS ON CREATIVITY BY TONY SWEET
Learn methods to help you to work beyond your initial image and put a personal stamp on your work in a new 4-week online class by photographer/authot Tony Sweet. Learn more...

NEW CLASS ON RAW SHOOTING BY CHARLOTTE LOWRIE
Learn how to capture high-resolution Raw images, convert the images, and edit them in Photoshop CS2, in a new 4-week class by photographer/author Charlotte Lowrie. Learn more...

BP RADIO: ASK A QUESTION & TUNE IN
ADVERTISE YOUR BUSINESS IN SNAPSHOT
Get word of your product or service out to a rapidly growing list of over 61915 serious photographers.
Learn More...

THIS WEEK'S TIP
Studio Lighting Thoughts ... by John Siskin
Instructor John Siskin has shared so many tips and techniques related to using and buying strobes. Check out his Studio Lighting Blogs . John should know this subject: He's an experienced commercial photographer and teaches a number of classes right here at BetterPhoto, including Understanding Professional Lighting and Portrait Lighting on Location and in the Studio .


   
Featured Gallery
Rhythm of the Ocean
© - Warren Ishii

Welcome to the 299th issue of SnapShot!
Hello,

Still kicking yourself for not signing up for one of BetterPhoto's online photography classes? No problem ... check out our outstanding February school schedule. These 4-week classes are fun, fast and to the point! ... Also, there's still time to make 2007 a year to remember - by enrolling in one of our three one-year ClassTrack programs: Become a Photoshop Professional, Composition for the Nature Photographer, and Making Money as a Professional Photographer. Learn more about ClassTracks... In this issue of SnapShot, don't miss This Week's Photo Tip, information on BetterBlogs and the Photo of the Day, and another fine batch of questions and answers. ... That's it for now. Enjoy your week of photography!

Jim Miotke
Where Is Jim?

Updates From BetterPhoto

We offer fabulous combinations of our PhotoCourses™ in three great one-year programs. Sign up for a ClassTrack™ and you'll get your choice of an additional free 8-week course (up to $297 value) or admission to the 2007 BetterPhoto Photography Weekend (Sept. 29-30, Chicago). Learn more... Create professional-quality presentations regardless of your current skills in this exciting 4-week online course. Jon Canfield will show you how to: select and optimize images; use music and transitions; and create shows that can be viewed on a computer, TV, projector, or shared on the Web. Find out more... BetterPhoto offers lots of resources for photographers. Here are two of them: Instructor Insights - BetterBlogs with Jim Zuckerman, John Siskin and Brenda Tharp. Photo of the Day - see past issues, and subscribe to this eye-catching newsletter.

Photo Q&A

1: Large Prints
All,
I have been asked to print some pretty big prints - 35in x 25in. I use a Canon 350D 8.3 megapixel. When I size these prints to 35x25, the dpi reduces down to 88dpi. My printer only accepts photos at 300 dpi, but when I re-size them at 300 dpi the photos end up over 225meg and crash. Has anyone printed images this large from an 8.3 megapixel camera, how are the results? My client has ordered five at this size, and I thought I would just print one as a test first so I don't waste my money. The largest I have gone previously is 16x23 and the image is beautiful ... is 35x25 pushing the limit?
Thanks very much.
Nat
- Natalie Howe
ANSWER 1:
Natalie, you didn't specify who your printer is. I assume you have a professional lab doing your printing. since most of us don't have the capability to print anything that large at home ... perhaps your print service can suggest a solution. Maybe they can step up the size after you upload the image in a smaller size. The math is simple, as you indicated. If you multiply 300 times 25" x 35", the resulting file is going to be very large. You very likely may have to tell your client the largest size you can produce (16 x 24).
John
- John R. Rhodes
ANSWER 2:
Take the edited but unresized file to a good local lab to have it printed. Their software will do a much better job at enlarging, and it will enlarge it to their printer's specific dpi. Have one print made so you can see how it looks. Remember, a print that size is meant to be viewed at a distance, not close-up, so it is best to look at it from about 10 feet or so. Even 35mm film, when enlarged to that size, will show some softness and grain when viewed up close.
- David A. Bliss
Read this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com

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2: Copyrighting Your Photographs
How do I copyright my photos?
- James W. 
ANSWER 1:
Actually James, the U.S. registration process is completed by sending copies of your work to the copyright office in Washington, D.C. You can download the form for that at http://www.copyright.gov under form FA (fine arts). Work can be ganged together so you don't need to register one photo at a time. It's relatively inexpensive and gets you a really swell registration certificate by return mail.
No, nothing is foolproof, however actually registering the work gets you actual protection whereas just sitting on the photo after you created it, without registration, is only partial protection. The reason for the time period is to allow photographers or artists to "gang register" their work and save money on registration fees and processing time.
Go to the copyright site, download the form and the materials for registering photos. It's all an easy, straightforward process that you might well benefit from, substantially, later on. The whole process, by the way, is intended to keep you OUT of court rather than in. Get the picture? ;>)
Take it light.
Mark
- Mark Feldstein
Read this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com

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3: Slower Shutter vs Higher F/stop?
When shooting a group in low light/shade, would you go for a slower shutter speed to gain a higher F stop? Say, 1/30s/F16? Or, rather, go for a higher shutter speed (eg 1/160 and drop to F5.6 or thereabouts)? I would use fill flash, by the way.
Thanks
- Robyn Ball
ANSWER 1:
Depending on your lens, distance from the group and how may rows of people, you may want to concentrate on the f/stop. Most consumer-grade lenses get soft when you stop down to f/16 or more. I'm not an expert on portraits, but would try to use the f/stop that is considered the "sweet spot" for the lens you are using.
- Mike Rubin
Read this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com

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4: New Contest Category: Catch-all
Hey all,
I just noticed the new contest category Catch-all. What does that mean exactly? lol
- Wendy S. Mogul
ANSWER 1:
- nobi n
ANSWER 2:
- Ken Smith
ANSWER 3:
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for asking! Nobi and Ken have links to excellent discussion threads on the subject. Also check out the rundown of all 10 categories in BetterPhoto's free contest.
Kerry
- Kerry Drager

See Kerry Drager's Premium BetterPholio™:
http://www.betterphoto.com/mg.asp?id=20858

Take an Online PhotoCourse™ with Kerry Drager:
4-Week Short Course: Creative Close-ups
Creative Light and Composition
Read this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com

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5: Free Admission to BP's 2007 Photography Weekend?
Did you know that you could get your Summit pass FREE? Sign up for one of our ClassTracks and get either a FREE course or FREE admission to the 3rd Annual BetterPhoto Photography Weekend in Chicago! This fantastic event will be held at the beautiful Westin O'Hare, September 29th & 30th.
Stay tuned for early-bird registration and fun promotions for this fantastic opportunity to meet the BetterPhoto pros in person!
See you in Chicago!
- Karen Orr
Read this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com

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6: Selling Prints - Should You Add Your Name?
I am about to sell two of my prints (11x14) and was wondering if I should add my name on the prints. What is the norm? Thanks.
- Miriam Arocho
ANSWER 1:
I'd say no. But get a stamp and put your name on the back.
- John Sandstedt
ANSWER 2:
Miriam, I have started putting my name on all of my photos. I think it is good that they recognize your work. When I look at a photo I like, I like to know who took it, but that is just my opinion. Kathy in NH
- Kathy Radford
ANSWER 3:
All the works of art I see when I visit a museum are signed by the artist. If you consider your work ART, then I don't see why you would not. If they are buying it from you, all the more reason to sign it, since it shows ownership and pride in your work. I would not let that print out of my site without signing it.
- Debbie Del Tejo
ANSWER 4:
I sign all my printed work. You should get recognition for your work.
- Donald  R. Curry
Read this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com

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