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SNAPSHOT - PHOTO NEWS FROM BETTERPHOTO.COM
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Welcome to SnapShot, the weekly newsletter on
the art of photography from
BetterPhoto.com


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IN THIS ISSUE - Wednesday, September 17, 2003
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* SPOTLIGHT: Got Great Photos? Show Them Off with a Deluxe BetterPholio™
* BETTERPHOTO: The August Photo Contest Winners Are Here!
* BETTERPHOTO: Tony Sweet on Designing the Best Image
* PHOTO TRIVIA QUESTION: Littering in Italy / Qu'est-ce que c'est... un collage?
* THIS WEEK'S TIP: Extremely Cold Electronics - Tip by Jim Zuckerman
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 1: Tele-extenders and Polarizers
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 2: Photo Transfer Software Problems
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 3: What Lens Should I Buy For Best Sharpness?
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 4: Best for Beginners
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 5: Troubles with Shooting a Concert
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 6: How to Convert Film Images to Digital
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 7: Can't Find My Photo
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 8: Photo Pages from Large Picture Files
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 9: Usefulness of 35mm in Digital Age
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 10: Medium JPEG's For Printing
* CONTINUING PHOTO Q&A 1: Camera Defect or Malfunction


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IN THE SPOTLIGHT - ADVERTISEMENT
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WHAT'S NEW AT BETTERPHOTO.COM
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Welcome to the 130th issue of SnapShot!

Hi

Yahoo! We have excellent contest winners for you to see! If you have not yet had a chance to check out the winners or the contest finalists, take a peek right now. You will be amazed at the incredible talent amoung our BetterPhoto members.

We also wanted to bring Tony Sweet's two courses to your attention, in case you've been considering a photo course but were unsure of which one would be best. Tony's work and his teaching method will ignite and inspire your photography to new levels.

Also note that enrollment on all these classes is limited. We are already nearing the upper limits on many of the classes. In order to get into your first choice course, sign up as soon as you can.

Reminder: we will be raising the price on our $195 online photo courses to $237 in the January 2004 session. Now's your chance to sign up at the $195 price. Note: a few of our new classes this fall are already priced at $237. Even at that price, these courses are a great bargain. I am convinced there is absolutely no better way to learn photography and when compared to on-location seminars and workshops, you can't beat the price.

Have a great week,
Jim Miotke
http://www.betterphoto.com/MG.asp?ID=124


*****
The August Photo Contest Winners Are Here!
A hearty congratulations to Thomas Mcconville for his Grand Prize winning Graphic Elements image, entitled "New World Architecture". Also let's give a big round of applause to Warren Ishii for his stunning seascape, Roy Cox for yet another amazing and energetic portrait, Clifton Mair for his beautiful detail image, Heather McFarland for her fun multiple image Ferris wheel panoramic, and Louison Rousseau for "Cat Halo" - all stunning and fun First Place prize winning photographs. Excellent imagery from all of the winners - keep up the amazing work.

So go ahead, readers! I hereby give you permission to take a break from your work-a-day world... Browse the August contest winners at: http://www.betterphoto.com/contest/winners/0308.asp

We also have the finalists posted for your viewing enjoyment:
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGall2.asp?catID=2007


*****
Tony Sweet on Designing the Best Image
Anyone who has had the opportunity to pick up Tony Sweet's book, "Fine Art Nature Photography: Advanced Techniques and the Creative Process", walks away feeling floored at the amazingly beautiful images Tony shoots. His photographs are inspiring and new. What's more, Tony is a wonderful instructor - showing you how to find your own vision and consistently create similarly powerful imagery. His students often finish up his classes with the ability to capture award-winning photos.

To learn how you can create such inspiring images, consider studying directly from the master himself. Join Tony in his two online courses here at BetterPhoto:

Image Design: Revealing Your Personal Vision
http://www.betterphoto.com/photocourses/TNS01.asp

Fine Art Flower Photography:
http://www.betterphoto.com/photocourses/TNS02.asp

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PHOTO TRIVIA QUIZ OF THE WEEK
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Last week, we asked:
Why does the character George Emerson toss Lucy Honeychurch's photographs into the river in A Room With A View?

The first, best answer - entered by BetterPhoto member Karen Rickersis:
The photos were covered with blood from a street fight.

Great film!

To see all answers to this question, visit:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/trivia.asp?stat=PRV

And Now... This Week's Photo Trivia Question - Qu'est-ce que c'est... un collage? - entered by BetterPhoto member Jim Miotke

The word "collage" - as in a photo that is a combination of multiple images - is taken from the which word, meaning what? Here's a hint: it's French.

Submit your own answer to this question by visiting:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/trivia.asp

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THIS WEEK'S PHOTO TIP
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Extremely Cold Electronics - Tip by Jim Zuckerman
When shooting in extreme cold, use duck tape to affix a chemical heat packet against the battery compartment in your camera. The few degrees of additional heat will help keep the electronics functional.

To learn more from celebrated author and photographer Jim Zuckerman, check out his online photography course, Eight Steps to More Dramatic Photography:
http://www.betterphoto.com/photocourses/JZK01.asp

Top Ten Tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/tips.asp

All Tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/allTips.asp

Add Your Own Tip:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/login.asp?category=tip&inputType=tip

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ADVERTISEMENT
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My new book guides you away from the point-and-pray method of taking pictures to shooting with confidence. In this simple and clear how-to book, you will learn:

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P.O. Box 2781
Redmond, WA 98073-2781 USA

To order online, visit:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/ourProductDetail.asp?productID=1096


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PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A - NEW THIS WEEK
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NEW QUESTION 1: Tele-extenders and Polarizers
I am working with a Canon AE1, 200mm F4 and 2xb tele-extender.

I understand that the tele-ex doubles the focal length but also doubles the min. aperture of the lens, so my 200mm F/4 is now a 400mm F/8.

In addition, I've noticed there is up to a 3 stop difference with my 200mm lens coupled with the tele-ex and polarizer. Barring the above 3 stop difference, Does this mean that if shooting on the beach on a bright sunny day that I can shoot (using iso 200)at the following settings;

F8 @ 1/500th sec
F11 @ 1/250th sec
F16 @ 1/125th sec
F22 @ 1/60th sec

Back to the 3 stop difference, does this now mean to compensate, iso 400 must be used and the following settings are acceptable;

F16 @1/500th sec
F11 @1/1000th sec

I'm just now learning about setting the exposures myself using the sunny F16 rule and I'm wondering if my logic is sound or faulty.

One last question... how can I tell if my polarizer is in the optimal position to cut glare? It's so subtle that I can't be sure if it's 'on'. This also worries me as I can't always tell how much I need to open up to compensate (2 or 3 stops)

thanks for any help you can offer.
- Antoinette

ANSWER 1:
Hi Antoinette: Some interesting questions here! Now for a few thoughts:
- The "sunny f/16" rule is generally used if your metering system stops working - in other words, it's an "emergency" tool in order to keep you shooting. Otherwise, most people rely on their camera's meter for exposures.
- Your in-camera exposure meter will automatically compensate when you use a polarizer or a tele-extender (assuming the tele-extender is designed for your camera/lens). Only with a hand-held meter do you need to make exposure adjustments when using a polarizer or tele-extender.
- With an SLR camera, you can preview the polarizer's effect in the viewfinder as you turn the filter (remember: this unique filter rotates in its mount). You can also preview by simply holding the polarizer up to your eye and rotating the filter. This helps you determine how much - or how little! - polarization you might want. In fact, you may decide you don't want any polarization at all!
Sometimes this filter simply does not work in a particular situation ... for instance, it won't have any effect if you're facing in the direction of the sun or the sun is at your back. Also, it won't affect a white overcast sky. In any case, if you do NOT see any polarizer effects while previewing, it may be that polarization is not possible in those circumstances.
Hope this helps, Antoinette.
Kerry

- Kerry A. Drager

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Course Extension

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*****


NEW QUESTION 2: Photo Transfer Software Problems
Hi everyone, I was curious to know if anyone here knew of a better photo transfer software than ZoombrowserEX. I ended up with this program because it was packaged with my D60 camera. It has corrupted and has also made my system unstable according to the Canon reps that have been helping me for three solid days... I have spent hours and hours loading and reloading this software and I can't seem to get it to work. The images won't transfer to the pc. I get errors constantly and also lock ups.
I picked up a Canon G3 to use as a backup camera and it came with an upgrade zoombrowser. It sounded wonderful but ended up being a big mistake! It does not function properly either and needed a patch immediatly. It didn't work either. I now can't use my origional zoombrowser or the upgrade because of a conflict with the software program upgrade. It's very strange and unusual for this type of thing to happen, I would assume. . .

. I really, reeeaaally would like to start off fresh and reload the entire system and start with a less bulky photo transfer software that runs well with microsoft millemium and can upload images from a D60 and a G1 to my pc. I would appreciate it if anyone here has any computer knowledge with photo uploading and knowledge of a great photo transfer program that would work for me!I have about 100 raw images sitting in flash cards waiting with baited breath to get downloaded. It's getting worse than waiting for slides to be processed! Thanks ahead of time.
- Donna Rae

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Visit DonnaraePhotography.com - Donna's Deluxe BetterPholio™

ANSWER 1:
I've heard Capture1 is a good program.
- Jeff S. Kennedy

ANSWER 2:
See http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/cameraraw.html for information on the Photoshop plug-in for raw images. If it serves the transfer function, then it'd be a good alternative for you. I read somewhere that it's $100. It will be part of future changes in Photoshop.
It's disturbing that a major manufacturer can't give the product the software support it needs and deserves. Listening, Canon? How about designing it right the first time?
- Doug Nelson

Visit DougNelsonPhoto.com - Doug's Deluxe BetterPholio™

ANSWER 3:
Hello Donna !

I use Downloader Pro, you can give a look here : http://www.breezesys.com/Downloader/index.htm

A bientôt !

JF
- Jean-François Schmutz

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ANSWER 4:
Thanks guys!!!

JF, Downloader pro sounds great as does the PS plug in. Right now though the PS in my system is in bad shape because of not being able to uninstall certain things which created a snowball effect so until I unload the sytem and reload, I'll pick up the Downloader pro just to save the remainder of my work so I can keep shooting while I wait for the pc to get fixed... finally I can start fresh. I just orderd a 120g hard drive also to use as a master drive and now I am getting excited!. THANKS A MILLION for the great info. I'll bookmark this page.
- Donna Rae

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ANSWER 5:
I had an afterthought Doug, The more I think about that plug in the more I like the idea of it. It makes a lot of sense for ADOBE come up with a trafer progam. I'm definatly going to plug it in and the price sounds very reaonable.Thank you.
- Donna Rae

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Read this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=6735

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NEW QUESTION 3: What Lens Should I Buy For Best Sharpness?
I have a Canon Rebel EOS with 35-70mm zoom lens. (You'll have to bare with me as I am not a photographer by any means!) I am not that happy with the sharpness of the pictures that I am getting. I was considering purchasing a new lens for this camera but I didn't know what would be best. I don't really do anything fancy just take pictures of the kids. Thanks.
- Diane L. Flowers

ANSWER 1:
The sharpest lens is also be about the least expensive, the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 (version I or II). But this of course does not have the versatility of a zoom lens.

Some of your unsharpness is probably due to using your lens with the aperture set wide open. Most lenses are sharpest when the aperture is set a stop or two smaller than maximum, say at f/8 for a f/3.5-5.6 zoom. But then you may end up with shutter speeds too slow for hand held shooting without blurring from camera shake. While a little more expensive than other zooms, the Canon EF 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS USM (~$400) can solve this problem. It's optics are sharper than the typical kit zoom, even at maximum aperture, but its Image Stabilization feature allows you to use smaller apertures and corresponding longer shutter speeds without camera shake blur. In between the 50 and the 28-135 IS in price are Canon's EF 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 USM (~$220) and EF 24-85 f/3.5-4.5 USM (~$310) which have optics about as good as the 28-135 (but no IS).

Canon has several lower priced zooms ($150 and less) that, and while they are decent values, would not be an improvement over your EF 35-70 f/3.5-4.5: EF 35-80 f/4-5.6, EF 28-80 f/3.5-5.6 USM, EF 28-90 f/4-5.6 USM, EF 28-105 f/4-5.6 USM. Note that the EF 28-105 f/4-5.6 USM is a separate model and different design than the recommended EF 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 USM.
- Jon Close

Read this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=6732

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http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=6732

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*****


NEW QUESTION 4: Best for Beginners
What digital SLR camera would be best for a beginner who enjoys shooting family as well as landscapes and nature in both close up and distant situations.
A camera to both learn and grow with for someone on a limited budget under $1,000. Also, what two lenses would you start with? Thanks.
- Doyle Kelly

ANSWER 1:
In that price range, there are good new digital cameras, but not many SLR's. To me, a good digital camera allows the full (TIF or raw mode) shot, every pixel, with JPEG compression only when I'd want it. If you must have an SLR, look at the Olympus E20 (used), or an E-10. Or, in a compact camera, look at the Canon G3, or G4. You are limited to the lenses that come on the camera with these, BUT, the zoom lenses are made for the digital format and should be reasonably good. Also, be sure to budget for the 128 or 256 Megabyte storage cards you would need when shooting full resolution.
Y'know, you could shoot film, and then scan the results.
- Doug Nelson

Visit DougNelsonPhoto.com - Doug's Deluxe BetterPholio™

ANSWER 2:
Right now there is only one digital SLR with interchangeable lenses for under $1000. Canon has announced a digital version of it's popular Rebel camera. Go to Canon's website to check it out. It will be available in the next few weeks, although all dealers will tell you they are already heavily back ordered. This will be a very popular item.
- Lewis Kemper

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*****


NEW QUESTION 5: Troubles with Shooting a Concert
I have recently shot a concert using a Canon EOS 3000 N camera and a Kodak ultra film. The result was terrible. Because the singer and his band were constantly moving and I wasn't allowed to use a flash, the photos came out to be very blurry! Someone suggested that I buy a digital camera because it will provide great shots even if I don't use a flash. Please advise. Also, I am not very familiar with professional terms so could anyone please explain to me what I can do using the simplest terms and words???

MANY THANKS
- Hannah Y

ANSWER 1:
I'm not sure a digital camera will solve your problem. If you're using a relatively high speed film as it is, I don't see how switching to digital is going to work any better.

You need a faster shutter speed in order to capture the singer without blurring. When the subject is moving, you need for the shutter to stay open for a very short time. You have a couple of choices: go with a faster film still, like maybe an ISO 1600 film. The picture will be more grainy than if you had shot with a slower film, but that's the trade-off with faster film. Your Kodak Ultra is ASA 400 film, I think, and that's too slow for night club photography. Something like Fuji's ASA 1600 film might work better.

The way camera lenses work is you have a shutter speed (the shutter lets light into the lens when you press the button to take the picture) and you have an aperature. Aperature defines how wide the shutter opens to let in light. These two things control how might light gets to your film. Your camera has built-in light meter in it that helps decide how wide to open the aperature and how long to leave the shutter open in order to capture the picture. For pictures like what you're talking about, you want the shutter to stay open for a short period of time and you want the aperature of the lens to open as wide as possible. With a fast shutter speed, the singer won't move very far while the shutter is open and so won't be blurred in the picture, as long as the aperature can open wide enough to let in enough light.

If you're using a telephoto or zoom lens for your picture, you might want to switch to a "regular" (non-zoom, non-telephoto) lens. The "regular" lens will likely have the ability to let in more light at its widest aperature than the telephoto or zoom lens.

With your camera, you can also trick it into thinking that your ASA 1600 film is really ASA 3200 by loading your ASA 1600 film normally but setting the film speed manually to ASA 3200.

The faster film, the "wider" aperature lens, and "tricking" the camera into thinking its using ASA 3200 film should make a big difference.
- Tim Devick

ANSWER 2:
I agree with Tim - a digital camera will not necessarily solve your problem. It may give you an easy way to switch to a higher ISO equivalent - and that, as Tim points out, can be the best trick for you.

The biggest advantage that a digital camera will provide you, however, is the ability to see a thumbnail version of your image immediately after shooting. This will often tell you whether your technique is working or not.

This is how I got the feedback I needed when shooting a recent concert. To see the pics and read my thoughts on the subject, check out my article on concert photography - Getting Great Concert Photos.
- Jim at BetterPhoto.com

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http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=6729

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*****


NEW QUESTION 6: How to Convert Film Images to Digital
When I have my film processed, I also have the images scanned to a CD. I have been practicing enhancing those images on the CD with Photoshop Elements 2, with varying degrees of success. After I finish with an image, I save it to another CD, then I take it back to the shop to have those images printed. I have been mostly disappointed with the results. Before I started this learning project, I asked the technicians what I needed to do to make sure I didn't lesson the quality of the print. They said to make sure I saved with a resolution of 256-300 dpi. This is actually the resolutions showing on the orignal disc from the photo lab. I did this, but the images still look flat and somtimes grainy. I have had the images printed at 3 different locations and I don't see much difference, except in expense. Am I beating my head against a wall that isn't going to move? I'd love to be able to work with Photoshop in this way, but maybe it isn't designed to work with this format. Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.
- Charlyce Altom

ANSWER 1:
Have you considered printing the photos at home? Currently, I use HP Deskjets to print my photos from the CD. I use glossy or matte photo paper, either Kodak, HP or Great White. I always print 8x10 images and have been happy with the results.
- Joan W

ANSWER 2:
It sounds as if you are doing the correct procedure as far as maintaining the proper file size for a good print. The problems you are facing with flat and grainy images is probably due to a lack of good calibration and profiling by you and the printers.

If your images are flat on all 3 different printers than your monitor is probably not calibrated correctly and what you are seeing on the screen is not accurate. The grain problem can be from doing too much to the file in Elements, bad scans, or bad proflies for output.

I would say you first need to calibrate your monitor to even begin to have predictable results!
- Lewis Kemper

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*****


NEW QUESTION 7: Can't Find My Photo
Hi, I entered a photo called... Hear the thunder? Thats my harley. I can't seem find it anywhere under people. That's where I entered it. I found it once but it won't come up again. Are they removed if not chosen?

Thank you
- Lori Rockwell

ANSWER 1:
Hi Lori,
All I had to do was type Hear the thunder into our search engine (located at the top of the green film stip) and your photo came up as the result under Top Photos Found.
- Jim at BetterPhoto.com

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http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=6714

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http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=6714

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*****


NEW QUESTION 8: Photo Pages from Large Picture Files
Can I print small photos such as wallet size from a 1 or 2 megapixel picture without having them look scruched up?
- Ronnie G. Rutledge

ANSWER 1:
Yes. What photo editing program are you using?
- Jeff S. Kennedy

ANSWER 2:
I have Adobe Photoshop elements that came with my Epson 1280 printer but I haven't used it yet. I just tried printing photo sheets with Hotshots and they don't turn out crisp enough.
- Ronnie G. Rutledge

ANSWER 3:
I haven't used Elements for a long time and when I did it wasn't extensively. In Photoshop under File/Automate there is an option called Picture Package where you can have Photoshop assemble an 8x10 sheet with wallets. You just set the Page Size to 8x10. Set the Layout to 2.5x3.5. Set the resolution to 250 or 300 depending on what works best for you printer or lab. Leave the mode RGB and click OK. Photoshop does the rest. Once it's done then you need to make the image view 100% and sharpen it.
- Jeff S. Kennedy

ANSWER 4:
Thanks Jeff, I'll try that.
- Ronnie G. Rutledge

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*****


NEW QUESTION 9: Usefulness of 35mm in Digital Age
I have a question that I'd like to see some discussion on - is 35mm a dinosaur now that digital cameras have gotten so good? I've got a couple of old Canon F1 manual cameras that I just love and have shot lots of slide film over the years. I recently bought a 5MP digital SLR and am very happy with it. I'm wondering now if there's even any reason to keep using 35mm any more. Any opinions?
- Tim Devick

ANSWER 1:
This has been a hot topic around here for a while. It comes and goes. I use and love my Canon F-1. I also got a 5 megapixel digital, but it's only a JPEG-only point'n shoot, a family toy. I get JPEG compression as a mandatory option. I don't like what it does to images.

The best digital is approaching fine grain film and the best conventional optics in quality. What's more, colors seem accurate (but that's because most affordable color print printing is of indifferent quality). My problem is that I cannot afford the digital stuff that makes this possible. The Canon EOS 10d is $1,500. Oh, ya want a lens with that?

I'm shooting Provia 100 and Portra NC print film for my really important personal stuff. Digital is catching up, both in quality and in price, but a digital film scanner is as far as I'm going right now.
- Doug Nelson

Visit DougNelsonPhoto.com - Doug's Deluxe BetterPholio™

ANSWER 2:
First of all let me tell you both how jealous I am. I have always wanted an F1.

That being said, I shoot primarily digital now (I do this for a living btw). I still have my 35mm cameras, medium format camera, and a large format camera. I rarely touch them. I've been shooting the 10D and I find I can make bigger enlargements with it than I could from most 35mm film. Plus it allows me greater flexibility and creative freedom.

In the end it's just a tool though. Is it the right tool for every job? No. Digital is a lot like shooting slide film. When I was shooting film I wouldn't use slide film for every job. Some jobs just lend themselves better to negative film. Add to that the fact that the 10D brings along with it a 1.6x focal length factor. That means that my wide angle lenses aren't so wide with it. So when I need a really wide shot I use my 35mm. If I were to shoot sports I would definitely pull out my EOS3. I can reel off frames much quicker with that. Not to mention the fact that it focuses much faster.
- Jeff S. Kennedy

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*****


NEW QUESTION 10: Medium JPEG's For Printing
We are getting ready to take a 30 day trip to Kazakhstan to adopt our second child and I am taking along my Canon D60. I have 4 256 mg cards and plan to shoot and shoot and shoot this one time experience! I was thinking about shooting in medium JPEG format to maximize the number of photos I can take on each card (it almost doubles!) but I wondered how much quality would be lost. I doubt I'd print anything larger than an 8 x10 and even that is big for my uses. For the most part I only use the photos to view on screen, email and print 5x7 or smaller. Can anyone share with me how bad the quality will be if I do this? I simply can't afford to buy any more compact flash cards for this trip!
- Cindy L. LaJoy

ANSWER 1:
Cindy, since you are lucky enough to have the Canon D60, shoot one at the best res the D60 can do, in RAW or TIF mode. Open it in your imaging program.
Shoot the same scene at a few different levels of compression and put them in your imaging program. Blow them up in Elements or PS until you just begin to see the image break up into pixels.

The digital capture device in a camera of this grade is so good that you may well find a degree of JPEG compression that doesn't compromise image integrity or color too badly. With my less capable digicam, I see fuzziness and color shifts in faces, but, then, your CCD or CMOS device is of far better quality. We'd be interested in what you find.
- Doug Nelson

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ANSWER 2:
Cindy, you should be fine with JPG medium. I shoot in JPG Med on my D100 for family stuff all the time. You'll still get about a 1MB+ file to work with and at 300 dpi, you'll be able to print these up to 8x10 just fine. Just make sure you test your white balance settings for optimal color representation. Cloudy -3 seems to be the most popular default, but it might help to learn to set a preset/custom on your camera. Check the manual and use a gray (not white) card. There are a few sites on the web that help you do this. Check out Moose Peterson's site http://www.nikondigital.org/articles/white_balance.htm
for starters.

Congratulations on your impending addition! How exciting! Wishing you all the best (and all the best shots)!

p.s. Forgot to add that JPG MED FINE is what I shoot to get a 1+ mb image file.
- Piper Lehman

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PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A - CONTINUING FROM PREVIOUS NEWSLETTER
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CONTINUING QUESTION 1: Camera Defect or Malfunction
My friend has a Canon EOS 650 and when film is processed half of the picture is missing. He doesn't recall if it is the top or bottom portion. I have heard of such a problem but do not remember the cause of this fault. Please advise.
- Robert H. Dyslin

ANSWER 1:
Robert - it sounds to me as if the shutter curtain is sticking, or broken. That's when you'll get only half an image. Or, if your friend was using flash, the shutter speed was set higher than the flash can sync to.
Hope this helps!
- Brenda Tharp

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ANSWER 2:
Thanks Brenda for your speedy reply. Is this an expensive repair procedure? Can you suggest a repair facility in the Tampa/ St. Pete, Fl area, or an out of town mailing address? I had never heard of this model before and will try to find some professional reviews about its spot in the history of SLR's. One of my cameras is the Canon AE-1 Program which I purchased new many years ago. Just recently I cleaned and oiled it as best as I could and it seems to work very well. A more recent aquisition is my Nikon N65. I am making a feeble attempt to self learn both digital and film photography useing my Olympus C 700 and Canon A70 and Olympus 510 digital cameras. I much prefer the digital cameras since I really don't have much interest or need for prints but instead enjoy the slide shows on computer. Thanks again, Bob Dyslin Ocala, FL
- Robert H. Dyslin

ANSWER 3:
I don't know of a local reputable place near you, but you might suggest to you friend to send it to Canon directly, or to call around to find out what repair shops are authorized Canon repair centers. Wish I could help more, but that's all. I use Canon Pro Services for my repairs, but I'm enrolled in their Pro program... Good luck!
- Brenda Tharp

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ANSWER 4:
Specifications and introduction dates for Canon cameras (and lenses) can be found at Canon's online Camera Museum, at http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/index.html

The 650 was the first of Canon's EOS model autofocus cameras, introduced in 1987. Some older cameras have developed sticky shutters after lubricant or a gummy substance (deteriorated foam/rubber seals?) leaks onto the shutter blades. This is a very delicate job to clean and should be left to a professional.
- Jon Close

ANSWER 5:
You are more than likely Not in sync with the proper flash speed for the camera, set the speed with care and stay below or at flash sync. recomendations, a real simple thing to do!
- Michael McCullough

ANSWER 6:
Thanks Jon and Michael. This new information will be forwarded to my friend.
- Robert H. Dyslin

ANSWER 7:
Hi Robert,
I had the same problem with my EOS 650. Some seal in there deteriorated and got the shutter curtain stuck (kept open for a long time - also you could see the tar like substance on the shutter). Sometimes it would click properly and sometimes not. I took it to Canon and two weeks later it is working good. Cost Canadian $200.00.
- Maurice Joseph

ANSWER 8:
Robert;
To find out where there's a Canon repair facility, just call
1-800-828-4040 (that's Canon,USA) give them your zip code, and they'll hook you up with the closest authorized repair facility near you.
- Jeff Grove

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