SnapShot #76 - 02/25/02
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Autographed Book; Photo Discussions Are Back; New Q&A; Filters; Exif Reader
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SNAPSHOT - PHOTO NEWS FROM BETTERPHOTO.COM
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Welcome to SnapShot, the weekly newsletter on the art
of photography from http://www.betterphoto.com
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IN THIS ISSUE - Monday, February 25, 2002
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* SPOTLIGHT: Publish Your Own Articles on Photography
* BETTERPHOTO: Last Call: Absolute Beginner's Guide to Taking Great Photos
* BETTERPHOTO: Photo Discussions Back Online
* BETTERPHOTO: BetterPhoto Q&A Back Online, Too
* PHOTO LINK: Take Your First Look Though All The Filter Choices
* PHOTO LINK: Exif Reader Tells Digital Shooters What They Shot
* PHOTO TRIVIA QUESTION: Most Wanted Photo / Nothing Better To Do
* THIS WEEK'S TIP: Use Your Polarizer to Punch Up the Rainbows
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 1: Cleaning My Camera Lens
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 2: Repair and Service of Minolta Maxxum 300Si
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 3: Places That Do Sepia Toning and Archival Prints
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 4: Compression
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 5: Black and White Filters
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 6: Flash for Olympus C3000
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 7: Model Releases
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 8: How To
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 9: Copystand
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 10: Why Can't I Comment on Photos Anymore?
* CONTINUING Q&A 1: Printing in E-Book Format
* CONTINUING Q&A 2: Camera Lens and Image Stabilizer
* CONTINUING Q&A 3: Lens 28-80mm - What the Fstops #s Mean
* CONTINUING Q&A 4: What Does It Mean to Push Film?
* CONTINUING Q&A 5: Tripods and Monopods for Action Photography?
* CONTINUING Q&A 6: Shooting from a Cruise Ship
* CONTINUING Q&A 7: Polarizing Filters - Linear vs. Circular
* CONTINUING Q&A 8: Digital Lighting for Jewelry Photos
* CONTINUING Q&A 9: What Do the Lens #s Mean? E.g. 28-80?
* CONTINUING Q&A 10: Olympus C-2100 Ultra Zoom with Windows ME
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IN THE SPOTLIGHT - A WORD FROM THIS WEEK'S SPONSOR
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Publish Your Own Articles on Photography
The Deluxe BetterPholios™ now feature the ability to publish your own articles. A simple form lets you combine text with photos to create your own tips pages, stories, helpful how-to pages, and more. You enter the material and we stitch it all together for you. In a matter of minutes, you see your own photo-illustrated work on the Web. Order your Deluxe BetterPholio™ today at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/sites4photogs/deluxeWebsites.asp
Or see a sample Deluxe BetterPholio™ by BetterPhoto member, Christian Boice. Enjoy the fun images from this photographer - who also happens to be taking Bryan Peterson's 12 week Photo-Course: http://www.ChristianBoice.com
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WHAT'S NEW AT BETTERPHOTO.COM
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Welcome to the 76th issue of SnapShot!
We have so many great questions and answers this week that we just had to pack them all in. So take a break from the daily grind and enjoy learning from these forum threads.
I am also very happy to let you all know that the very popular Photo Discussion feature is back. We made a few changes and added an easy table of contents, for your viewing pleasure....
Most important of all, this is your last chance to get an autographed, numbered edition of "The Absolute Beginner's Guide to Taking Great Photos" - don't delay, get yours today. You'll be very happy you did when you see how fun, friendly, and helpful this book really is.
Have a great week!
Jim
P.S. I could use a little feedback. I am trying a new system of formating for this email. Please let me know if the text layout looks bad to you - if it stretches way off to the right or if strange line breaks make the content hard to read. Thanks!
In the meantime, here's a quick link to order the book ;^)
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/ProductDetail.asp?productID=1096
*****
Last Call: Absolute Beginner's Guide to Taking Great Photos
Although the title uses the word "taking," this book is really all about "making" great photos. It shows you how to get control over your camera to create better pictures all the time. From the title to the final word, this book is fun, friendly, and easy - because that's how learning photography should be.
Thinking about purchasing this great new book so you can make your own great photos? Then act now - this is the last chance to get in on our initial special offer.
Only $15.95 to the USA, USD$16.95 to Canada, and USD$22.95 elsewhere. You get a special, signed and numbered first edition.
To order now, visit our online order form at: http://www.betterphoto.com/product/ProductDetail.asp?productID=1096
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Photo Discussions Back Online
We have finished fixing up the Photo Discussions and... yahoo! they are back in action. It was not until we had temporarily removed this feature to improve it that we realized how popular it is. Your stream of emails made it clear; this is a feature beloved by many. Thanks for all the positive feedback and I hope you enjoy the new Photo Discussions: http://www.betterphoto.com/discTOC.asp
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BetterPhoto Q&A Back Online, Too
The same thing goes for the Q&A - we have organized this great, ongoing body of work into intuitive, easy-to-use categories. Hopefully this will help new BetterPhoto visitors find the answers they are seeking. Thanks to all of you who continually answer these questions for making it the best photography Q&A on the Web: http://www.betterphoto.com/qnaTOC.asp
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PHOTO LINKS
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Take Your First Look Though All The Filter Choices
Here's an bare bones and comprehensive first look into the world of filters. A good introduction for anyone puzzled by all the filter choices - from polarizers to neutral density to color correcting filters. Well-written and clear. http://eshop.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.asp?scmId=688
*****
Exif Reader Tells Digital Shooters What They Shot
"Exif Reader is image file analysis software for Windows. It analyzes and displays the shutter speed, flash condition, focal length, and other image information included in the Exif image format which is supported by almost all the latest digital cameras. This software analyzes JPEG files created by digital cameras." http://www.takenet.or.jp/~ryuuji/minisoft/exifread/english/
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PHOTO TRIVIA QUIZ OF THE WEEK
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Last week, we asked:
What is the most requested photo from the U.S. National Archives?
The first correct answer - entered by BetterPhoto member Shravan Kumar S. is:
The most requested photo from the National Archives is a picture of Elvis Presley offering to help the country by being a drug enforcement agent under former President Nixon.
To see all answers to this question, visit:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/trivia.asp?stat=PRV
And now... This Week's Photo Trivia Question - Nothing Better To Do
In which movie does an injured photographer get into the habit of spying on his neighbors?
Submit your own answer to this question by visiting:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/trivia.asp
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THIS WEEK'S PHOTO TIP
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Use Your Polarizer to Punch Up the Rainbows
Next time you find yourself at the end of a rainbow, slap on that polarizing filter. Experiment with it, watching to see how much it brings out the colors. You will see the rainbow change right before your eyes. Be very careful, it is just as easy to make that rainbow disappear as it is to make it stand out.
Also remember to use the right kind of polarizer: see the Question and Answer below on "Polarizing Filters - Linear vs. Circular" for an extra helping hand.
Top Ten Tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/tips.asp
All Tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/allTips.asp
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ADVERTISEMENT
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Absolute Beginner's Guide to Taking Great Photos
My new book guides you away from the point-and-pray method of taking pictures
to shooting with confidence. In this simple and clear how-to book, you will learn:
* How to compose your picture with a more artful eye
* The top qualities that winning photos exhibit
* Numerous tips and secrets for consistently getting better results
* And much more...
To pre-order this book, send a check or money order for USD$15.95 (or USD$16.95
if shipping to Canada; or USD$22.95 to other international addresses) to:
BetterPhoto.com
P.O. Box 2781
Redmond, WA 98073-2781 USA
Or order online, view the Table of Contents, or read an excerpt at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/ProductDetail.asp?productID=1096
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PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A - NEW THIS WEEK
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NEW QUESTION 1: Cleaning My Camera Lens
Dear BetterPhoto Q&A forum,
I want to know the best way to clean my OLY D490Z lens, as a regular practice, and an now in particular as I notice some specs on the lens that may be grains of sand - so I am worried about scratching the lens when I clean it. Here is the lens cleaning equipment I have now - should I use these items? 1. PecPad Non-Abrasive Wipes from PhotographicSolutions; 2. 4x6 Camera Lens wipes (from B&H)described as new, strong, wet strength filter wipes; and 3. ROR (Residue Oil Remover) Photo Formula Mist #1 by V-VAX Products Chicago. 2 and 3 were recommended by B&H sales people. PecPads I have seen used by professionals I have met while traveling. Lastly, I am surprised that my OLY manual nor the OLY web site (or any Google, Jeeves searches) addresses this important issue. Any input is greatly appreciated. Sincerely,
- Lee B.
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NEW QUESTION 2: Repair and Service of Minolta Maxxum 300Si
I was at a function taking pictures when suddenly my Camera's aperture closed and refused to open. Thinking that it was perhaps a power problem, I bought a new battery and yet the problem persists. What should I do and when could I get manuals to help me in trouble shooting.
- Thomas
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NEW QUESTION 3: Places That Do Sepia Toning and Archival Prints
I need to find companies that still do sepia toned prints. I have some photos that were ruined by water damage and I need to (ASAP) get a value for the sepia toning. The prints were archival, black and white 11x14s. Any help, websites, telephone numbers that anyone can give me will be helpful. Thanks.
- Sarah
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NEW QUESTION 4: Compression
Even though I compress my pictures from 1600 x 1200 to 400 x 300, they do not look right after I upload them to you. What am I doing wrong?
- Patricia H.
ANSWER 1:
Hi Patricia,
Are you saving them as JPEG files? If so, try saving them as TIFFs and see if an uploaded TIFF looks better (it should).
Compression is actually not the term you are looking for - it refers to how much an image get "squeezed" when saved as a JPEG. The more a JPEG compresses, the worse it looks. Save a JPEG image as another JPEG (this is what happens when you upload a JPEG) and you essential compress it twice. This often causes an even worse image quality; that's why I recommend uploading TIFFs.
The only problem is that they are bigger so your connection has to be somewhat fast for it to be manageable.
When you say you "compressed" an image down from 1600 to 400, you are really saving you "resized" the image. And resizing does not necessary mean better image quality. In fact, it often produces worse image quality. You will often have to sharpen up and fix up an image after it has been downsized dramatically.
The main reasons we recommend a size like 500 x 750 is so that a) the image size is more managable over the internet connections, and b) it doesn't get dramatically resized by our image uploading software, which saves images at about that size.
Confusing, isn't it?
- Jim at BetterPhoto.com
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*****
NEW QUESTION 5: Black and White Filters
I enjoy shooting black and white nature photos. I have yellow, orange and red filters and I understand that they are supposed to increase contrast. Unfortunately, when I try to use them I don't get the results I hope for. The photos often come out too dark; dim is perhaps a better description. I think I'm not adjusting the f-stop as I should but I can't be sure. I've tried to find a simple description of how to use the filters but haven't had any luck so far. Can you help me?
- Eric
ANSWER 1:
First of all, the filters don't necessarily increase contrast. An increase in contrast is often a consequence of using the filters. A lot of it depends upon the colors in your scene. B&W film is more sensitive to blue than any other color. That's why skies often come out white in b&w photos. Filters filter out the color opposite them on the color wheel. Red filters out blue. So using a red filter will make blue skies dark and will make red objects appear white. An orange filter will do the same but to a lesser degree and a yellow even less.
If you are metering through the filter you need not adjust the exposure. If you are not metering through the filter then you need to compensate based upon what the manufacturer suggests for each filter. Most red filters require a 3 stop compensation, orange 2, and yellow 1 or 1/2.
- Jeff K.
ANSWER 2:
Eric,
To amplify a little on what Jeff has already provided:
(a) Filter factors are often printed on the side of the filter ring (only needs to be used if you're not metering through it).
(b) Think of B/W filters as providing some amount of "color separation" by shifting the shade of gray a color (or color range) will render. As Jeff mentions, the traditional yellow, orange and red, provide increasing separation of white cloud against blue sky, but only because it is filtering out increasing levels of blue.
Two other filters to consider are the green and the blue (not used very often). The green is often used to provide greater separation among foliage to gain more detail level with it. In this respect it's more useful during the mid to late summer with mature foliage.
Modern panchromatic films have a more even response across the color spectrum than the very old orthochromatic films did, which had a much higher blue response (it's why skies are very washed out in very old photographs). A blue filter can be used to emulate the ortho effect and by increase blue response of a panchromatic film.
-- John
- John L.
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*****
NEW QUESTION 6: Flash for Olympus C3000
Can anyone suggest a replacement for FL-40? This flash is too expensive!
Many thanks
- Khiem
ANSWER 1:
Kheim,
A friend at work also has an Olympus for which the FL-40 was designed. He also suffered from "sticker shock" at its price. Not only that, but it requires the flash handle and a cord, neither of which is very inexpensive.
Metz just created a module (SCA 3202) that is compatible with any of its flash heads that use "SCA 3000" series modules. While some of the more powerful of these flash heads are also expensive, the MZ32-3 can be found inexpensively used. Unfortunately, according to Metz, you still need the Olympus flash handle and cord to use it, but at least it makes the flash head itself less expensive.
-- John
- John L.
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*****
NEW QUESTION 7: Model Releases
I'm taking pictures for our church's capital appeal fund and some will be used in newsletters. If I capture someone (candid photo) and the photo is used, and that person comes back and says that I didn't have his/her permission, do I actually need a model release? The newsletter is just being mailed to the congregation. Hopefully, an answer can be found pretty quickly due to time being of importance. Thank you for your help.
- Deb F.
ANSWER 1:
I'm no lawyer, I just play one on TV. ;-))) But this sounds like an editorial use for the photographs. As such, no release is required. Releases are only required when the photograph is to be used in a commercial way. Such as in an advertisement or sold.
- Jeff K.
ANSWER 2:
I'm not an attorney either, but agree with Jeff from your description. In general a model release is required if:
(a) the person(s) are recognizable
(b) the image will be used for "promotional" or "commercial" purposes to promote or sell goods or services (including those of the photographer who shot the photograph). Classic examples are advertising and photographs used in corporate annual reports.
Which way your usage of these falls depends some on how the accompanying article(s) are written. Ostensibly, your newsletter is akin to a newspaper. If the article is written "third person" as reporting news about the fund drive, much as an independent newspaper would write it, you should be OK. If it's written as an advertisement or even like an "infomercial" to promote donating to the fund drive, you're now skirting on commercial use.
Other issues:
(a) Property:
Unless this is being done on publicly *owned* property, ensure you have explicit permission from whoever owns the property on which the photographs are made. If it's church property, the permission is implicit in their asking you to do the photography. Classic example of "private" property on which the public is invited but requires permission: a shopping mall.
(b) Libel:
Even though you should be able to claim First Amendment "editorial" usage, it does not provide relief from a libel claim for a phtograph that is misleading, very embarrassing or defamatory. You shouldn't run into this, but may inadvertently hit the shutter release at the wrong time and catch someone in an embarrassing posture or pose which might offend them. It's one of the hazards of candids. If it occurs, simply don't use the photograph for anything.
This doesn't mean you (or the church) cannot be sued for lack of "releases," but it does mean you have some manner of defense. I would hope nobody you encounter doing this would pursue litigation over something so trivial. The vast majority of attorneys would so advise a potential client who is seeking litigation (e.g. "get a life" and sue over something meaningful). Use common sense; those involved should know you're photographing them and if someone objects at that time, simply don't use it. (It doesn't mean you must surrender film to anyone; that's your property even if their image is on it.)
-- John
- John L.
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*****
NEW QUESTION 8: How To
How do I take pictures of landscapes? How do I take pictures of animals?
- Kati
ANSWER 1:
Hi Kati,
Those are two pretty big questions - I could write a novel (so to speak) about either.
Without doing that, I would recommend two things:
1) A good book or two. Check out my book for a good basic introduction, Bryan Peterson's books, or any of the other books that you find appealing at our How-To" books page.
2) A lot of thoughtful experimentation. There is nothing like taking many photos and thinking about what you like and don't like about the results.
Also check out Frans Lanting's book, http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=613&pCat=BKS&pSC=BKS_BPFavorites&pSC2= Eye to Eye, if you need even more inspiration about photographing animals.
Best wishes to you as you embark on this path!
- Jim at BetterPhoto.com
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ANSWER 2:
Kati,
As you look through the "how-to" books that discuss equipment and how they affect photographs, techniques and methods, also think about *making* a photograph instead of *taking* it. This is a different way of thinking about your images.
Work at "visualizing" what you want a photograph to look like before you make it. Nearly all outstanding photographs do not happen by accident. Certainly photographers occasionally sieze opportunity when it occurs. However, they at least must be able to "see" it as the situation unfolds, *before* it actually happens, and be practiced at being able to capitalize on it.
Much more often, particularly with landscapes, a finished photograph is envisioned in the mind of the photographer before the camera is taken out of the camera bag. It may be minutes beforehand, or it may be weeks or months (waiting for a particular season, weather and time of day). In some cases, I've visualized a photograph for a location I'm familiar with before leaving home to make it. Having a mental vision for it is not only the uniquely creative aspect of photography, it is what determines camera equipment, film, composition, focus and exposure techniques that will be used. With experience using various films, equipment (lenses), lighting and techniques, I know how these things will affect how a final print will look. It has made choices about what to use and how to use them much simpler.
Certainly you can "copy" what others have done. I've seen photographs that do this and to some extent it improves technique by "reverse engineering" how something was done. It's limited though in creating a good technician, not original works. Originality is the line that separates the "great" photographers from the rest; they create their own unique vision.
Having done both landscapes and animals, here are some specifics about both to think about:
Landscapes:
Work at understanding perspectives and what helps create or diminish depth in a photograph; how weather, time of year, time of day or night, and sun angles change how a scene looks.
Animals:
Work at understanding an animal's behaviors and the situations or conditions that trigger them. Photographing them is often "candid" work because you cannot pose them unless they're highly trained specifically for posing and other behaviors (Hollywood does this for its movies). If you know what they will tend to do beforehand, you can position yourself and be ready when what you desire does occur.
-- John
- John L.
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*****
NEW QUESTION 9: Copystand
What does the term copystand mean?
pretty simple sounding question, only I can't seem to find the answer.
- Genie
ANSWER 1:
Hi Genie,
A copystand is a device used to make photos of photos, for the most part. It basically holds a camera over the print or artwork to be copied.
It is used often by labs when a customer asked to get a reprint but no longer has the negative. In such a job, the lab will use a copystand to make an interneg or copyneg.
- Jim at BetterPhoto.com
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*****
NEW QUESTION 10: Why Can't I Comment on Photos Anymore?
If you have been wondering where the Photo Discussions have gone, don't worry. They are in the shop for repair and will be back very soon.
- Jim at BetterPhoto.com
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ANSWER 1:
Whew! I was getting worried there...
- Denise M.
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ANSWER 2:
The Photo Discussions are back online.
You can browse previously submitted discussions at http://www.betterphoto.com/discTOC.asp or you can start your own discussions by clicking on the links under each image in the Galleries section.
- Jim at BetterPhoto.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A - CONTINUING FROM PREVIOUS WEEK
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CONTINUING QUESTION 1: Printing in E-Book Format
Good day! Does anyone know how I would print an MS PowerPoint slide handput page, 2 slides per page on to a pre-formatted photo paper, specifically 5x7 size Kodak Premium Picture Paper? Software from the Kodak site, PicturePage, appears to allow me to print two different photographs on one sheet of paper - but I cannot figure out how to format the PowerPoint Hand outs - 2 slides per page - to print on this paper, 5x7 size Kodak Premium Picture Paper with 2 photos per page. Any input is appreciated!
- Lee B.
ANSWER 1: Lee -- not sure I completely follow, but let me give it a shot:
* I'll print 2 shots to a page on regular 8.5 X 11 photo paper (not sure if you're saying that your single sheet is actually 5X7, and you're trying to print 2 images to it?).
* To print (powerpoint) 2 shots to an 8.5 X 11 page, click: file --> print --> in the Print pop-up screen, lower left, there's a box that says "Print what". This is a pull down menu. Select "handouts". Then, immediately to the right, there's a new pull-down for "slides per page". Select "2". This will print two consecutive slides on one 8.5 X 11 sheet, at about 5X7 in size each. Good luck!
- George C.
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*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 2: Camera Lens and Image Stabilizer
I am looking to buy a 75-300mm lens for my Elan 7e camera. I want to know if the "Image Stabilizer" feature is worth the extra money.
Thanks
- Jane C.
ANSWER 1: The *Image Stabilizer* feature is simply great. But the overall optics of the lens (75-300mm) is not very good, especially at the longer end. You can have very sharp photos at 300mm if you use very grainy film (100 ISO or slower) or a slide film and a good sturdy tripod. Otherwise the IS is not going to help you much, especially in low light condition.
- Sajeev C.
ANSWER 2: Now I don't know anything about the optics of the lens but I do know I was looking at this very lens and the one just below it in price. It is very bulky and has a big diameter, if you backpack or plan on carrying it a long way to the photo shoot go with the lighter one. I'd think it would be better to save up for a fast lens if you are working in low light as opposed to buying the IS lens. Some are only about $400 more than the IS. Good luck shopping!
- Christie K.
ANSWER 3: I just got 75-300 IS. I've not used it a ton, but I've found it to be excellent. I've shot at close to mm at, I believe, only about 1/45, and they're still tack sharp (no shake) except for subject movement. As for the optics - well, I'm just an amatuer, but it sure seems sharp to me - the pix just "pop" compared to those taken w/my crappy 28-80 kit lens. Generally, my experience so far is that you can actually get much more than the two stops slower that Canon advertises. I've not tested it myself yet, but I've heard of people consistently shooting at 300mm at 1/30, hand held w/no camera shake, and I believe it. It is big, esp. since I have it on a Rebel 2000, but, in my opinion, definitely worth the money.
- Elaine R.
ANSWER 4: I'll ask a question in response to the question . . .
What do you intend to use the lens for?
IS is an interesting technology. Those who find it most useful are shooting racing, sporting events, etc.; subject material that is very fast moving which requires panning. Another question: How did those that routinely created fine photographs with fast moving subjects manage it without IS? The answer is in their techniques and practice. IMO it's a convenience, useful for some things, but definitely not a necessity (see remarks about compromises below).
If you intend to do landscapes and still-lifes with it (I've exaggerated a little with this; most work shouldn't need the IS), then a tripod or monopod is much more appropriate for many aspects of photography than using an IS lens.
The IS feature *is* a compromise in lens design; the fact it's a 4X zoom is also a compromise. How much this affects your photographs will depend on how much you intend to enlarge them and how often you are shooting with high risk of flare. Decisions about some lens features are trade-offs between one quality or feature and another. Which way the decision falls depends on what you consider more important.
-- John
- John L.
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ANSWER 5: The beauty of an IS lens is that you can handhold at lower shutter speeds. I take many pictures from a canoe. Both handheld camera movement and the fact that a tripod on the bottom of the canoe would be unsteady have led me to Canon's IS technology. I started with the 75-300 IS lens, then the 28-135 mm IS, and finally traded the 75-300 for the 100-400 IS. I still use a tripod on occasion, but I don't need to drag it everywhere to get sharp pictures. When I traded the 75 - 300 lens after using it for 2 years, I received 80% of the purchase price towards the new lens.
If you lead an active lifestype and a tripod would slow you down, by all means give the 75 - 300 IS lens a try. If you are worried about the sharpness of the lens and money is no object, you could also go with the new 70 - 200 f2.8L IS zoom lens. To paraphrase an old saying, a lens can be sharp, inexpensive or loaded with features, pick any two.
- Richard W.
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CONTINUING QUESTION 3: Lens 28-80mm - What the Fstops #s Mean
Does the fstop 3.3-5.6 marking on a lens mean you can only shoot between these f stops? The camera specs say that f22 is possible.
- Mark C.
ANSWER 1: No, the f-stops (3.5-5.6) means that for the wide angle zoom i.e. 28mm the maximum aperture is 3.5 and for the highest zoom i.e. 80mm the aperture is 5.6. since aperture is the ration of the focal length of the lens to the diameter (or radius, I don't remember exactly) i.e.
focal length
aperture = -------------------
diameter (or radius)
in the lens you mentioned 28-80, the diameter of the lens is fixed and hence as the focal length changes from 28mm to 80mm, the same diameter give higher aperture. on the other hand for a *ZOOM LENS* with *FIXED APERTURE* e.g. 70-200mm f/2.8, the lens opening (diameter) also increases, keeping the aperture (i.e the ratio) fixed.
- Sajeev C.
ANSWER 2: The previous response is correct, but to put it more simply, the lowest number shown is the MAXIMUM APERTURE for that lens, and of course, the MINIMUM APERTURE would be f/22 or f/16, depending on the lens. In the case of a variable focal length lens, the second number (i.e., 3.5-5.6) is the maximum aperture for the longest focal length.
- Mark O.
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CONTINUING QUESTION 4: What Does It Mean to Push Film?
Can someone fully explain in detail what push processing film actually means? How does the LAB do this? A full definition would be most helpful. Then I will know exactly how to achieve this myself. I have some ideas but am not sure.
Thanks very much.
- Beverly Joanne H.
ANSWER 1: Hi,
Pushing film is shooting it at an EI (exposure index) higher than its ISO rating. In doing so, you must push the entire roll, not just parts of it (see remarks below about processing). The common terminology used is Push 1, Push 2, etc. The number refers to how much it has been pushed in "stops." ISO 200 is one "stop" faster than ISO 100, so if I shoot an ISO 100 film at an EI of 200, its "Push 1," at EI 400 it's "Push 2."
The next part is film processing. The lab must be told you pushed the film and by how much. A full-service pro lab will have calibrated their equipment and chemistries for push processing, which adjusts time spent in various processing steps, and sometimes tweaks the exact chemistry used also.
Pushing film is always a compromise. The most common effects are contrast and graininess increase. Some films are more amenable to being pushed, others less so. Check film data sheets for remarks in them about pushing the film, if there are any, usually found under the "recommended exposure" section.
You may also see another term called "pulling" film. This is the opposite of a push in shooting it at an EI slower than its ISO rating (deliberate overexposure). Not nearly as common as pushing, but with some films you can do this also.
-- John
- John L.
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ANSWER 2: Pushing is like squeezing the last bit of toothpaste from the tube. Simply it is using a greater amount of sensitivity from the film by increasing the ASA (IE) to higher number. To be able to do this is a matter of increasing the developing time. Sometimes the temperature of the soup. All suppliers can provide you with their recommendations. Remember you will affect the grain and the contrast. With color film you will experience a color shift. It is okay for special affects of unusual circumstances but I prefer to leave well enough alone.
- Jack H.
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CONTINUING QUESTION 5: Tripods and Monopods for Action Photography?
Are tripods and/or monopods used in action/sports photography? Also, is a "monolight" a type or brand of monopod? Thanks for taking the time to answer.
- Brenda J.
ANSWER 1: Brenda,
Forgot to tell you why it's called a monolight . . .
Monolights are studio strobes with the power supply for the strobe built into the light head. Most monolights are about the size of a half-pound loaf of bread; shapes vary, but you get the general idea; smaller than the breadbox but not smaller than the bread loaf. This doesn't include the reflectors, umbrellas, softboxes, barn doors, filter holders, or other accessories commonly used with them.
The other type of studio strobe is a "power pack" system. With these, the power supply for multiple lights is in one (typically larger) box and a cord is run from the power supply to each light being powered by it.
-- John
- John L.
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CONTINUING QUESTION 6: Shooting from a Cruise Ship
I will be going on a Crystal Cruise (Harmony) from San Francisco to the Alaskan glaciers and back in July. Having been on an Inside Passage cruise before, I know I'll see great shots from the deck ...wildlife, fishing villages, lighthouses, and landscapes. I've done okay with these subjects from land with 200 ASA, polarizing filter, medium length Minolta zoom, and a tripod, but what do I do to adjust for the ship's movement, overcast days and some distance to the subject?
I could borrow a fixed length 300mm lens if that is appropriate.
Additionally, suggestions about cruise photography in general...on and off the ship...are welcome.
I love looking at pictures, so your uploaded examples would be most appreciated.
Carl "High Seas" Morrison
- Carl M.
ANSWER 1: You should be just fine with a Prime 300mm. I suggest renting a 1.4x teleconverter for the extra "punch" necessary should you find yourself still short at the telephoto end.
Since the ship won't be moving too fast, you should be alright at f/5.6.
For indoors, I would try a prime or a decent wide-angle to short zoom - say an 85/1.8 or perhaps a 24-85 - that would give you a great option to take the sweeping indoor shots like the dining room or the main stairwell/lobby. It's also great for perspective shots from the back of the ship or the forward observation deck. That range is also wonderful for shore tours. Don't forget a dedicated shoe flash! Buy your film in bulk before leaving and consider a mixture of ISO 100 for scenics/good light and 400/800 for moving action/evening shots. I can't seem to find the shots from my cruise at the moment - if I do, I'll upload them to this thread.
-AJ Heredia
- Armando
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CONTINUING QUESTION 7: Polarizing Filters - Linear vs. Circular
I'm wanting to buy a couple of polarizing filters. I looked at ebay and they have linear and circular polarizing filters.
What is the difference and which would be best for me?
I use a manual focus 35mm cameras.
- Garry M.
ANSWER 1: Hi Garry,
The difference is in the way that the polarized rays enter the filter. It has almost no effect on the final outcome. However, if you use lens with autoFocus feature you will need the circular version, otherwise the AF will not work properly.
Also, polarizer means less light will enter into the camera and you should compensate for that (done automatically most of the times, but should be aware of).
- Gadi
ANSWER 2: Circular Polarizers can be used with any camera. Linear Polarizers can only be used with cameras that do not use "semi-silvered mirrors or prisms to split the light entering the viewfinder in order to calculate exposure and focusing distance. PL (Linear Polarising) filters can sometimes interact with these items to give unpredictable exposure or focusing. So we recommend that you choose a PL-CIR filter unless you have a manual focus camera which has no beam splitter." (courtesy of Hoya, http://www.thkphoto.com/catalog/h/011pl.html ) Check your camera's user manual, but if you have any doubt, use a circular polarizer.
- Jon C.
ANSWER 3: Garry,
One thing that wasn't mentioned in previous responses was price. If you haven't noticed already, circular polarizers are more expensive, sometimes significantly so. Even if you have an auto-focus camera lens you can still use a linear polarized filter. Just switch the lens to manual focus and focus manually. You'll still get the effect of a polarizer without the excessive cost.
- JEFF G.
ANSWER 4: Jon C. has provided the technically most accurate answer. If the camera has a "beam splitting" mirror or prism, for whatever reason, use a circular. Nearly all current SLR's (made within the past few years) use beam splitting.
I emphasize what he mentioned about affecting *exposure* in addition to focusing. Two of my manual focus camera bodies require circular polarizers because the internal exposure meter uses a beam splitter. I don't recommend using a linear polarizer and manually focusing a camera with an auto-focus system. Very, very likely the same beam splitter is also used to feed light to the camera's internal exposure meter sensor.
Gadi almost has how it works correct, but its not how it enters the filter, it's how it exits the filter that's different. A circular polarizer *is* a linear polarizer with a quarter wave plate added to the back of it (usually they're cemented together). The linear polarizing plate in front acts just as a pure linear polarizer. The quarter wave plate behind it circularly polarizes the the light that has been filtered by the linear polarizer. A "beam splitter" is similar to a linear polarizer. To the beam splitter, the now circularly polarized light reacts as if it were randomly polarized, allowing the beam splitter to direct the correct portion of light to the camera's internal exposure meter and auto-focus system (if it has one).
Using a linear on a camera that uses a beam splitter, at least for its exposure meter, won't always throw off the metering. It will only occur when the polarizer is rotated into certain positions (or near them). When it does happen though (and it's unpredictable), how badly it throws off the metering is pretty dramatic.
-- John
- John L.
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ANSWER 5: Thank you Gadi, Jon C., Jeff G. and John L. for the information. Since I am in doubt about my camera's meter I will pay the extra and buy circular polarizing filters.
The best thing is that now I know the difference.
- Garry M.
ANSWER 6: Garry,
What make and specific model of camera do you have? That may help answer whether you can use a linear or need a circular for your specific camera.
-- John
- John L.
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ANSWER 7: John,
I use a Nikon F3 and FE2. They share lenses.
- Garry M.
ANSWER 8: Garry,
Took some searching, but according to the specs I was able to find, you can use a linear polarizer on the F3 and FE2 and not worry about it messing up the auto-exposure system. Some details about your camera metering follows . . .
FE2 Metering:
It is very much like one of my manual exposure OM bodies with the meter sensors inside the prism housing. The reflex mirror is NOT a half-silvered beam-splitter. All the light is reflected by the reflex mirror into the prism where the metering is performed. This means the metering can be fooled a little by strong backlighting behind you. You may have noted this effect at times with bright sun immediately behind you. If working in AE mode on a tripod using a cable release, ensure you shade the viewfinder from direct sun.
F3 Metering:
While two of my three Olympus OM bodies have metering similar to the F3 (behind the mirror), how the light gets there is different. Mine have half-silvered beam-splitter mirrors which reflects most of the light into the prism and the rest passes through to the meter cells. The Nikon F3 has a unique "pinhole" in the center of the mirror. This also allows some light to pass through to the meter cells behind it. However, unlike half-silvered mirrors, the pinhole method is unaffected by linear polarizers. Unlike the FE2, the "behind the mirror" metering is unaffected by bright sunlight shining on the viewfinder.
-- John
- John L.
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ANSWER 9: Garry,
Should also mention IMO the FM2n, FE2 and F3 are among the very best pro-grade SLR bodies ever made. They (and the AI/AIS Nikkor's) should serve you well for a very long time.
-- John
- John L.
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CONTINUING QUESTION 8: Digital Lighting for Jewelry Photos
I am trying to take pictures of jewelry I make to put on a Web page. I am having a devil's time trying to get it lit properly so that it shows the detail of gold and stones. My Kodak has an 8" Macro and I am at present trying 68 watt GE Photofloods.... no luck. I am desperately looking for an inexpensive solution and would welcome any suggestions. Thanks. 3's
Grampa
- Lloyd O.
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ANSWER 1: I've had success with this type of subject (small and shiny) by using a homemade "light tent". Basically I covered/tented my subject with a (gulp...clean) white sheet. I cut a hole in the tent for my lens to stick through. I then shone three photofloods on the tent until I got the lighting I wanted. I used a 35mm SLR therefore, the metering was pretty simple.
- Terry L.
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ANSWER 2: Actually the best way is the buy a light box they make for jewelry photography. However, you can get away by using a daylight bulb they sell at the Home Depot and bouncing it to a white reflection. If you want to get a softer image, then I suggest you build a light tent just like the one on this link http://bermangraphics.com/coolpix/jewelryphoto.htm.
- David
ANSWER 3: I have made quite a lot of photographs of jewelry, and got very good results with a Sony Mavica FD7 using macroshot. I made the pictures at daytime (no artificial lighting needed - no flash) and lightfall coming from the South. With the Mavica you can come rather close to the object, so you do not get that unwanted shiny effect.
- Marian S.
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CONTINUING QUESTION 9: What Do the Lens #s Mean? E.g. 28-80?
I have always had a point and shoot now I want to graduate. I know I want a http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=228 Canon EOS Rebel 2000. It comes with a 28-80 lens. But I want to be able to understand what the other lens # mean - I need it in layman's terms. A sample of the pictures I would like to take are pictures of things that are farther away than I can get to (such as a hot air balloon) and get less sky. Do I need a different lens? I will get the books needed if someone has any suggestions. This is going to be a hobby - hot air ballooning and photography. Thank you.
- Tricia
ANSWER 1: The 28-80 is a zoom lens. The numbers indicate the range of the zoom. It goes from a 28mm wide angle focal length to an 80mm telephoto focal length. It's a good all around lens suitable for most shooting. 80mm is a relatively short telephoto. To put it into perspective, a 50mm lens is considered normal (what your eye would see). An 80mm is about 50% longer or 1.5x. A 100mm would be twice as long or 2x (2 power like on telescopes). For most casual shooting this lens is very useful. For things like hot air balloons a 70-200mm lens might prove more useful.
- Jeff K.
ANSWER 2: Thank you, Jeff K. I think I understand.
Another question for you:
If I want to sneak a picture of my kids playing (they are camera shy), would the 70-200 lens be okay. I have gone to the bookstore and they are all "Greek to me"... Any suggestions on good books. Thank you so very much.
- Tricia
ANSWER 3: I would say either lens would be good. The 70-210 would allow you to get tighter shots from a greater distance obviously. Don't underestimate the usefulness of the 28-80 though. It's a better lens for more "snap shots" than the 70-210.
As far as basic photography books go, I don't think you can go wrong with the Kodak series of books. They have a http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=563 good basic photography book as well as books on more specific topics.
- Jeff K.
ANSWER 4: Tricia, if you're looking for a book on photography how-to, I always recommend http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=531 Understanding Exposure by http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallByMember.asp?mem=6694 Bryan Peterson (ISBN 0-8174-3712-60). It's a great book if you're starting out and you need things clarified. I bought my copy 5 years ago and I still go through it once in a while. Check it out.
Wally... :)
- Wally S.
ANSWER 5: Tricia,
Sounds like you and I are in the same boat. I had a photo shop salesperson recommend the book http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=1099 John Hedgecoe's New Introductory Photography Course (published by Focal Press, $49 Canadian ISBN 0 240 80346 9)
It's first chapter explains the basics and has been rather useful in helping me reach a decision on what I need/want (or can handle as a novice) from my first SLR camera. The remaining chapters discuss basics such as exposure and light, elements of picture design, using filters and approaches to photographing various subject matter under varying conditions. It also has several assignments or projects for you to go through as exercises to help you understand/master the techniques explained.
I am predicting these remaining chapters will be very helpful, once I actually purchase and try to master my first SLR.
Good luck,
- Christine H.
ANSWER 6: For anyone suffering from the "Greek-to-me" problem, I can't help but recommend http://www.betterphoto.com/product/ProductDetail.asp?productID=1096 The Absolute Beginner's Guide to Taking Great Photos by yours truly. If you have been stumped by the other books or disappointed with your pictures, you will love this book!
- Jim at BetterPhoto.com
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ANSWER 7: Sounds like shameless self promotion to me. ;-)))
- Jeff K.
ANSWER 8: I can't help it... I love this book THAT MUCH!!!
(Now you're supposed to say "Gee, Jim, sounds like you really love it. I've always wanted a book like this... And now I can get one... and you say it's only $14.95. Is it really that inexpensive. Tell me, does this book by any chance also include a chapter with questions that the beginning photographer - someone like me - might ask?"
That's my cue. "Why yes, Jeff, I am so glad you asked... ")
- Jim at BetterPhoto.com
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CONTINUING QUESTION 10: Olympus C-2100 Ultra Zoom with Windows ME
I just purchased the Olympus C-2100 Ultra Zoom. I run Windows ME. I can't get Windows to recognize my camera. It does see the camera, but not the exact model. I applied the Camedia 2.01 upgrade which promises to fix this... No luck. Any ideas?
- David G.
ANSWER 1: Same problems in my C-2100 too David. I was just searching any information about this problem. I think the drivers on the utility CD is nor compatible with ME. I've just upgraded my computer and can't make it see my camera. If you can find a way to fix your camera, let me know.
- Barkin B.
ANSWER 2: No help from Olympus either. I purchased a Lexar Digital Film Reader from CompUSA. Just turn off your camera and pop out your SmartMedia card. The drive connects via USB. $50 - it supports "all digital film" and does not kill the batteries on the camera. Make sure you download the upgrade from their Web site.
It is not really a solution, but...
- David G.
ANSWER 3: Had the very same problem with my Olympus C2040 Zoom. I got no help at all from Olympus. In fact, they tried to convince me that my six week old camera may need repair. Really think the problem is in the software. Solved my problem by purchasing a FlashPath SmartCard Floppy disk adapter for $50.00. You just install their software and then insert your Smart Card into the adapter and then pop it into the floppy drive. It is marvelous! Works like a charm and actually makes the photos much easier to work with and your don't have to worry about cables and wires either.
- Judy H.
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