SnapShot Archives - 09/07/2001
SNAPSHOT - PHOTO NEWS FROM BETTERPHOTO.COM
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Welcome to SnapShot, the weekly newsletter on the art
of photography from http://www.betterphoto.com
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IN THIS ISSUE
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Friday, September 07, 2001
* SPOTLIGHT: Handcolor.com - Dedicated to the Art of Handcoloring
* BETTERPHOTO: Contest Winners Are In!
* BETTERPHOTO: Enhanced Premium BetterPholios™
* BETTERPHOTO: Top Ten Questions to Ask When Buying a Camera
* PHOTO LINK: Travel Photo Tips by Rick Steves
* PHOTO LINK: All About New York Institute of Photography
* PHOTO LINK: Bit by NationalGeo: Best Adventure Cameras
* PHOTO TRIVIA QUESTION: Photographer ID / Priorities
* THIS WEEK'S TIP: When in Rome, Don't Buy the Film
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 1: Vignetting Problems with Polarizer Filter
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 2: Which is Better - Nikon N80 or Canon Rebel 2000?
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 3: First Camera - APS of 35mm SLR?
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 4: A Trinity of Questions About Selling Photos
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 5: The Way My Photos Look After Upload
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 6: Using Expired Film - Need to Compensate?
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 7: How do I use my Gossen Luna Pro light meter?
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 8: Best Set-Up for High School Hockey Games
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 9: Which Lens is Best First Buy When Upgrading?
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 10: Salary When Starting Career in Photography
* CONTINUING Q&A 1: Selling Image Files
* CONTINUING Q&A 2: Print vs. Slide (or Transparency) Film
* CONTINUING Q&A 3: First Studio Set-Up for Preschool Shoot
* CONTINUING Q&A 4: Distortion of Downloaded Pictures
* CONTINUING Q&A 5: Trees in Foreground are Black
* CONTINUING Q&A 6: The Best Imaging Software via a Scanner
* CONTINUING Q&A 7: Adding Filters to Point and Shoot Camera
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IN THE SPOTLIGHT - A WORD FROM THIS WEEK'S SPONSOR
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Handcolor.com - Dedicated to the Art of Handcoloring
Visit the largest growing community on the web dedicated to the art of
handcoloring your black and white photographs. Discussion forum, contests,
chats, online store, photo feedback and more!
http://www.handcolor.com
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WHAT'S NEW AT BETTERPHOTO.COM
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Welcome to the 62nd Issue of SnapShot
Another great week has past! We have had the treat of seeing some beautiful
contest images here at BetterPhoto. Now I am doing everything I can to get
our first Digital Darkroom and PhotoFlash monthly emails finished... And in
addition to that, there are some incredibly exciting developments coming
around the bend. In the meantime, keep shooting and sharing those awesome
photos and helpful answers.
:^) Jim
*****
We Have Contest Winners!
Well, the judging was incredibly difficult - there were so many good images
entered this past month. But the results are in... and the winning images
are simply stunning. If you have not already seem them, you have got to
check them out for yourself:
http://www.betterphoto.com/contest/winners/0108.asp
Our September contest is off to a great start - there are already over 200
images in the competition. To enter your own best image, sign in below
(remember, only one image per day):
http://www.betterphoto.com/contest.asp
The best photos win a copy of DreamSuite, a Tamrac 5201 camera bag, or a
BetterPhoto T-shirt. More about the prizes can be found at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/contest/prizes.asp
*****
Enhanced Premium BetterPholios™
Each Premium BetterPholio™ owner now has a personal update center. With these new
admin pages, members get to change everything from the pictures they have
selected in their personal gallery to the wording of their bio or gallery
statement.
It is super easy to set up your own BetterPhoto Premium BetterPholio™. With one,
you get to select your best photos to display in one convenient location and
tell people about yourself. It only costs $18/year. See for yourself how
easy it is for you to get your own gallery at BetterPhoto:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/login.asp?productID=997
And Let's Give a Warm Welcome to Our New Premium BetterPholio™ Owners:
Michelle Campbell
Rachel Snow
Elizabeth Collien
Edward Ditch
Penny Sanborn
Jennifer Diebel
Anand Madabhushi
Jan van der Hoeven
Check out their new Premium BetterPholios™ at the BetterPhoto Gallery page:
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery.asp
*****
Top Ten Questions to Ask When Buying a Camera
Check out this new set of top ten questions to ask when considering the age-old equipment purchase problem. Read these for inspiration when trying to figure out the best camera to buy:
http://www.betterphoto.com/buyers/top10questionsBuying.asp
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PHOTO LINKS
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Travel Photo Tips by Rick Steves
Great introduction for people who are new or unfamiliar to the art. Full of
good tips that are laid out in terms every person can understand. I disagree
with a few things but that is just my opinion. The advice is still very
worth the read:
http://www.ricksteves.com/news/0107/photography.htm
*****
All About New York Institute of Photography
This question has been slipping into our Q&A often. Soon, I will strive to
gather this and other frequently asked questions into one place. In the
meantime, here is an excellent discussion on NYIP that is choke full of good
tips:
http://naturephotogallery.com/howto/nyip.htm
*****
Bit by NationalGeo: Best Adventure Cameras
Very brief article on three cameras that show why "for adventure
photography, 35mm still beats digital." Again, I am not sure I agree. Maybe
I am just feeling cantankerous today :^)
http://www.nationalgeo.com/adventure/0107/gear_cameras.html
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PHOTO TRIVIA QUIZ OF THE WEEK
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Photographer ID
Last week, we asked:
Who was Frank Hurley?
The correct answer - entered by BetterPhoto member Shravan Kumar - is:
"Frank Hurley-Expedition photographer (1885-1962)
Frank Hurley, a husky, curly-haired Australian, ran away from home when he
was 14.He quickly taught himself the technical aspects of photography and,
using a sure eye for landscape splendor, set himself up in the postcard
business.
Hurley raised expedition photography to a new level. He did not make routine
photos of explorers posing in the snow. Instead, he often focused on the
snow itself, or on grim snowscapes that became beautiful in his
compositions.
Hurley, with the honorary rank of captain in the Australian Imperial Force,
served as a frontline photographer in World War I. He took some of the war's
only known color photos-"and some," wrote Alexander, "are small masterpieces
of stark, muddy misery." Later he traveled to Papua New Guinea and Tasmania,
where he photographed more in a travelogue style. He produced several books
about Australia.
On January 16, 1962, at the age of 76, he came home from an assignment
lugging his battered old camera case. He sat down and, uncharacteristically,
said he did not feel well. He sat there all night and died next day, leaving
behind a wife and three children."
Two other members - Nathan and Vince - added really interesting, detailed
answers after this one that told more aspects of the story. Read them at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/trivia.asp?stat=PRV
And if you are still enjoying the story, Hurley's photos from the Endurance
trip happen to currently be exhibiting at Burke Museum here in Seattle. Read
a good article all about it by a writer with the Seattle Times at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/rdrt.asp?rid=endurance
And Now... This Week's Question - Priorities
Which singer / songwriter once wrote the lyrics, "Too many cameras and not
enough food/ 'Cause this is what we've seen?"
Answer this question online:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/trivia.asp
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THIS WEEK'S PHOTO TIP
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When in Rome, Don't Buy the Film
Before you travel, it is a good idea to stock up on film while you are still
in your home town. If you run out and have to buy more film on the road,
shop where the locals shop - at the department stores, grocery markets, or p
rofessional level camera stores. Avoid buying your film from the tourist
attractions because they can (and usual do) charge an arm and leg.
Top Ten Tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/tips.asp
More tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/allTips.asp
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ADVERTISEMENT
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Outdoor Photography, Peterson's Photographic, Popular Photography
Visit Magmall.com to subscribe to these great photography magazines and
more... all at incredibly low prices:
http://www.betterphoto.com/rdrt.asp?rid=maggie
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PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A - NEW THIS WEEK
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NEW QUESTION 1: Vignetting Problems with Polarizer Filter
Hi, I am using a polarizer with my Pentax P30T SLR and am experiencing
vignetting problems. Which end of the zoom lens is this most likely to
happen? Many of my pictures are spoiled by the dark edges around the
photograph. Thanks for your help,
- Sharon C.
ANSWER 1: Sharon,
The vignetting problem is more serious at lower focal lengths. If you only
use the polarizer filter (no other filters in combination with it or a lens
hood) and you observe vignetting, then the frame of the filter is too long,
and you should use another with a shorter framing. By the way, with very
short focal lengths, polarizers are not very effective, since then the
effect covers only a part of the picture.
- Hermann G.
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2294
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2294
*****
NEW QUESTION 2: Which is Better - Nikon N80 or Canon Rebel 2000?
Which is better Nikon N80 or Canon Rebel 2000? Do either of these come with
the date stamp?
- Dani M.
ANSWER 1: The N80 is a much better and much more expensive camera than the
Rebel 2000. The N65 and the Rebel 2000 are equivalent. The N80 and the Elan
7/7e are roughly equivalent. All 4 models are available in a QD (Quartz
Date) version.
- Jon C.
Nikon N65 SLR Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=980
Canon Rebel 2000 SLR Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=228
Nikon N80 (Better) SLR Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=792
Canon Elan 7 (Better) SLR Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=973
And here is a link to the Nikon N80 QD date version although I never
recommend using the date function, myself. I find it distracting. - Jim:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=794
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2293
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2293
*****
NEW QUESTION 3: First Camera - APS of 35mm SLR?
Hello... I'm buying my first real camera and I want to know if anyone could
tell me the difference between a standard 35mm SLR and APS. If I wanted to
develop film at home (after I learn a lot more) does APS make a difference?
- Ron
ANSWER 1: Ron,
APS stands for "Advanced Photo System." 35mm refers to the film size used.
APS was created for consumers and the cameras made for the film are consumer
grade. If you want to develop film in a home darkroom, it would be much
easier with 35mm size film (see remarks about film availability). Following
are the major differences between the two:
Film Size:
This is the major difference between the two. APS uses 24mm film which is
the entire width of the film strip from edge to edge. The actual frame size
is 16.7mm x 30.2mm. By comparison, 35mm film refers to the width of the film
strip from edge to edge. Its actual frame size is 24mm x 36mm. This makes a
difference in how large a print can be made from the film. A 35mm camera
with an excellent lens and very fine grain, slower speed film can easily
produce high quality 11x16 or 11x14 prints. An APS can produce up to 8x12 or
8x10 prints. You can ask for larger ones, but either grain will begin to
show, or they will start to look a little soft since you are past the
resolving power of even the finest lenses with that much enlargement.
Film Availability:
For film availability, very, very nearly all still camera film is available
in 135 size (the number size for 35mm film), both consumer and professional.
This includes black/white and color in both negative (print) and
transparency (slide). By comparison, the only films available for APS are
consumer color negative. The B/W for APS is actually a "chromogenic" film,
exactly like color negative, except it renders in shades of gray, which is
entirely different from true B/W film. The easiest film to develop and print
in a home darkroom is B/W negative. It is possible to set up a home darkroom
for color, and some do, but the setup will be more expensive. Controlling
both time in various process steps, and temperatures of chemical baths is
much more critical with color films.
Camera Bodies and Lenses:
Very nearly all APS cameras are "Point and Shoot" viewfinder type with
auto-focus and "program mode" (only) auto-exposure. These cameras have
relatively weak built-in flashes (very short range) and cannot mount or fire
a more powerful external flash. Lens speed is comparatively "slow" (how much
light the lens admits) and they do not have as much range in shutter speeds.
This forces the use of faster films with larger grain structure. The couple
of SLR's made for APS have extremely limited lens selections. All that
applies to APS "P&S" cameras also applies to 35mm consumer "P&S" cameras.
OTOH, 35mm SLR's span a huge range from introductory consumer grade to very
high end professional grade. In some systems, such as Canon EOS, Nikon (AF
and AIS), and Olympus OM, the same lenses can be used on any of the system
bodies, from the lowest price consumer one to the premier professional grade
"flagship." Within the 35mm SLR systems, the user can grow a comprehensive
system over time, including upgrading both bodies and lenses without losing
compatibility at any point.
My recommendations:
If you're looking for a simple camera that doesn't require any special
knowledge to use, and you don't plan on making much more than color print
"snapshots" (Kodak's term, not mine) then an APS P&S can be ideal for it. If
you are looking for a more advanced camera system for "serious," specialized
and/or professional photography, with an extremely wide range of film
choices (to match your type of photography and style), then a 35mm SLR is
the better choice.
- John L.
ANSWER 2: John,
Wow... thanks for quick response and for clearing that up for me. Thanks...
- Ron
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2291
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2291
*****
NEW QUESTION 4: A Trinity of Questions About Selling Photos
How would one start looking for the establishments that purchase photos?
What would be best photos to shoot? How do you approach these
establishments? Any other tidbits are welcome. Thanks.
- Mike T.
ANSWER 1: Get thee to Barnes and Noble and purchase a copy of Sell & Resell
Your Photos and The Photographers Market 2001. End of sermon.
- Jeff K.
ANSWER 2: Amen, brother!
Sell & Re-Sell Your Photos: How to Sell Your Pictures to a World of Markets
a Mailbox Away by Ron Engh - great book:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898797748/graphiqueA/
Photographers Market 2001 - excellent reference:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=930
Now, go forth and bear witness of the truth :)
- BetterPhoto.com
ANSWER 3: AMEN BROTHER!!!!
- Jeff K.
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2290
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2290
*****
NEW QUESTION 5: The Way My Photos Look After Upload
My photo looks good on my PC but when I send it to the site it looks blurry
and out of focus. How come this happens?
- Jeff F.
ANSWER 1: It could be that you are saving the photo as a highly compressed
JPEG. When you upload a photo, it saves your original and then makes three
thumbnail versions out of the photo for display.
Try saving your file as a TIFF, PNG, or high quality / low compression JPEG.
Upload it and if you still see the blurriness problem, email me and I will
look into it.
- BetterPhoto.com
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2287
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2287
*****
NEW QUESTION 6: Using Expired Film - Need to Compensate?
I have a roll of expired ACUPAN 800 film. The film expired in 1999. However,
I would still like to use it for some "effect" shot. I understand there will
be degrading of the quality. Would like to know how should I compensate for
the lost of quality. via overexposing? or underexposing? pull or push during
processing? Also, will a filter help? if so, what filter? thankz
- Dominic S.
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2286
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2286
*****
NEW QUESTION 7: How do I use my Gossen Luna Pro light meter?
I have a lightmeter which looks to be from the 1960's. Everything works
fine. Don't know how to work it. I need to know how to work it.
It's a Gossen Luna Pro.
I put batteries in it. Works fine.
I don't know what I'm supposed to do.
I hope that you can tell me how to work this.
- Nathaniel B.
[ looks like a Haiku - :) ]
ANSWER 1: Nathaniel,
There must be a pushbutton to press for activating the measurement. The
needle on the scale will then move away from zero, and alter its deflection
when the opening with the glass plate (photocell) is oriented vs. a light
source. For reading the value, rotate the outer indented ring of the scale
till the needle takes the zero position again. You can then read the
possible f stop/exposure combinations on the scale, e.g. f2.8// 1/250,
f4.0// 1/125, etc. Be sure that the film speed is properly set on the scale.
Holding the light meter from the camera vs. the object yields object
metering. Measuring from the object vs. the camera gives light metering; for
this, shift the opaque white hemisphere until it takes the position in front
of the opening with the photocell. There is perhaps an additional scale ring
for exposure correction. For no correction, the nose must be in its zero
position; otherwise, + 1EV, +2EV, or -1EV, -2EV is indicated.
- Hermann G.
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2284
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2284
*****
NEW QUESTION 8: Best Set-Up for High School Hockey Games
As the photography editor for one of the best high school newspapers in the
country (Phillips Exeter Academy's EXONIAN), I'm looking for ways to make my
photographers' jobs easier, especially me. One of our main photo assignments
is sports, and in the winter, that means indoor, and so lighting is a
problem. Basketball, and wrestling are okay to use with a flash, but hockey,
swimming, and indoor track are played in such large venues, that I think
it's time we got some off-board lighting there. I saw one of the school's
professional photographers shooting a hockey game with two strobes at one
end of the ice, probably about 20 feet high, and the pictures he shot came
out pretty well. I'm looking for one or two strobes, or monolights, or
whatever, but don't know what to get. Also, a radio slave is in order
because of the distance from the lights. Is it possible to get a radio slave
that will send TTL information to the strobe, or does it just fire it off,
and if so, how do you execute metering? I'm on a pretty tight budget, so
used items are okay, but I still don't know exactly what I should get. A
little help?
- Jonathan O.
ANSWER 1: Jonathan,
There are low-cost slave units available on the market which fire the second
flash mounted on them when hit by the flashlight of the master flash
(normally mounted on the camera); by this, long cables are avoided. The only
limitation is the maximal distance for being activated (depending on the
guide number of the master flash). It is recommended to fire the slave flash
not directly in the direction of the camera in order not to hamper the
metering of the camera.
Best regards
- Hermann G.
ANSWER 2: Radio slaves will be your best bet. I wouldn't worry about TTL
since the lights will be at the same distance from the action the whole
time. All you need to do is check the exposure at various locations within
the arena you plan to shoot before the action starts and simply adjust your
exposure accordingly. To meter you need a flash meter.
- Jeff K.
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2281
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2281
*****
NEW QUESTION 9: Which Lens is Best First Buy When Upgrading?
My husband bought me a Dynax 500si camera for Christmas and I have just got
used to it. Now I want to start buying lenses as I gain more experience. The
question is in which order should I buy them? Should I get a zoom lens and
what size? Or would a telephoto be best? I'm not sure of the difference...
which is the best? I like taking landscapes and wildlife pictures the most.
- Jean W.
ANSWER 1: Hi, Jean,
I know exactly what you mean about wanting to buy new lens for your camera.
I have a Canon AE-1 and I have gotten used to it and I am now in the process
of "upgrading", so to speak. Now, I am assuming that the camera you have has
a zoom lens with probably 28-80mm range, but I cannot be certain of that.
You would have to specify...
Ok, without any more empty talk, let me try to suggest to you what type of
lens you would like to buy. You said that you like landscape photography and
also wildlife photography. For the former one I would recommend you get a
"wide-angle" lens. This type of lens allows you to take photos of your
surroundings at a much higher angle. I have a 28mm lens for that purpose
(the smaller the number, i.e. 28mm, the wider the angle of view would be).
If you go too low with that number, i.e. 7.5mm, you get something called a
"fish-eye" lens; those allow you to see at a 180-degree angle. However, if
you buy a fish-eye lens, there will be a perspective distortion of the
image, and the lower the number is, the greater the distortion, though some
people (like myself) like that effect a lot.
Now, to the opposite extreme. If you buy a telephoto lens (60mm+) you do not
get the distortion, but you also don't get the great angle of view. Those
lens are great for portraits, snapshots, etc. The greater the number, the
bigger your subject will appear in your viewfinder. By the way, the human
eye sees at 50mm, so if you buy a lens that is 50mm lens, it would be about
the same size as what the human eye sees as "normal".
The difference between a telephoto and a zoom lens is that the zoom lens
allows you to "zoom", and a telephoto only means that the lens has a lesser
degree of view than the human eye. What you want to consider is the
difference between a "fixed" lens and a "zoom" lens.
Fixed lens (ex. 50mm)= less glass=inability to zoom=clearer photos
Zoom lens (ex. 28-80mm)= more glass= ability to zoom= more versatile= not as
clear photos*
* You really have to enlarge the image to see the difference, though.
Hope this helps,
Rock on,
- Vasko I.
See Sample Photo - "Flower"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=4222
See Sample Photo - "Washington Memorial at Night"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=4222
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2248
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2248
*****
NEW QUESTION 10: Salary When Starting Career in Photography
I have been offered a job photographing with a professional wedding
photographer taking candid photos of the day and also taking photos in black
and white of the wedding party. I will be using my own equipment and will
also be learning at the same time. I will have my certificate in photography
in December. I was asked to come up with a salary. What would you advise? I
have little idea were to start.
- Louise
ANSWER 1: Well this is a hard thing to come up with. I am a professional
wedding and portrait photographer, and when I use new talent to help out as
an assistant, I start them out at about $10.00 hr in US funds, and I pay
according to the way they work. Stay away from a monthly payment, work per
assignment. Most of my assignments last about 9 to 12 hours so a good point
of reference is $10 per hour. When you are shooting for a while and have
proven your skill, ask for a percentage of the total sales from the images
you created. Best of luck, Ken
- Ken B.
Read or follow this Q&A at BetterPhoto.com:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=2175
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=2175
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A - CONTINUING FROM PREVIOUS WEEK
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CONTINUING QUESTION 1: Selling Image Files
I am interested in selling my images as digital image files only. I really
don't want to get into having prints made and shipping them. I would rather
sell image files by e-mail, so that customers could run off their own prints
or have them printed by a photo lab. Many photo labs now produce quality
prints from digital files (even via e-mail.)
So I guess my questions are: Is this being done? Can it be done? And if it
can, what would be the best way to start?
Any and all feedback on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
- Jeff G.
ANSWER 1: Hi Jeff,
There are plenty of sites out there that license the use of their
photographs through the web. But it is rare to find a place that offers a
resolution better than 1024*768, due to size constraints. It is more common
to see also, that they sell batches of photos, rather than individual
photos. For example, you might get a pack of twenty "extreme sports" photos
for about $5.
If you consider that to print it to near photo quality, you need at least
300dpi well, you're going to get a photo just over 3" by 2". It's not really
printable quality. Remember that most people who buy prints want to hang
them on the wall, so 8*10 is probably minimum, so 3 megapixel is probably
minimum. That's about 256Kb compressed, or about 6MB uncompressed.
I'd say the best way to start is to put up a web page with your work, and
then see if you can advertise it on places like this (BetterPhoto.com).
Also, go to as many search engines as possible, and make sure you enter your
page into their search engine.
Advertising at BetterPhoto.com (Thanks for the plug, Ken!):
http://www.betterphoto.com/g/advertise.asp
Finally, ensure that the ones you post are only viewable quality, and
preferably make some sort of arrangement to send the high quality file to
them. Perhaps either password protected area, ftp, or if your files are
small enough, email them. Remember that free email services rarely allow
more than 2MB emails, and even paid services in Australia, more than 5MB.
I'd be interested in looking at your work, if you get it on the web! Good
luck with your enterprise!
- Ken P.
ANSWER 2: Hi Jeff and Ken,
There are lots of good options to explore when thinking about selling your
work. In addition to the fine art, "hang on your wall" kind of sales, you
should seriously explore some of the stock photography agencies. Some of
them sell digital files exclusively. They take a cut, of course, and I would
seriously examine any contracts before signing them. One in particular - the
biggest - has a contract that I would not sign as an artist.
If you can find one that treats photographers well, it can be a very easy
and convenient way to make a little extra money from your work.
Also, Ken, I just wanted to let you know that Jeff does have a Member
Gallery with some of his favorite images posted. That is why his name,
whenever you see it under a post or photo, is now a link that goes here:
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallByMember.asp?mem=15748
Jeff is also beginning to built his own Web site with more images:
http://www.geocities.com/drj0037/index.html
Enjoy!
- BetterPhoto.com
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*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 2: Print vs. Slide (or Transparency) Film
What is the difference between print and slide film? Is slide film the same
as transparency film? I bought some tungsten film, and the clerk asked me
which I would like... I went with the print, because I was too embarrassed
about my elementary knowledge to ask him about the difference.
- Rene
ANSWER 1: Rene,
Slide film is (more properly called) transparency. It's also referred to as
chrome, diapositive and reversal. A slide is a transparency mounted in a
small frame, usually for projection. Reversal is the general developing
process for the film and is different from processing negatives. In 35mm
size it is usually returned from processing in plastic or cardboard slide
mounts (unless archival sleeving is specifically requested). The
transparency in the slide mount is the film that was in the camera.
Transparency film is noticeably less forgiving of exposure errors. Prints
can be made from transparencies. It's a little more expensive, but a
properly printed slide has a look to it I have not seen duplicated using
negative film. Many fine art (gallery) photographs are made using
transparency films. It's also preferred by stock agencies and magazine
editors. The image on a transparency can be looked at and evaluated much
easier than the image on a negative.
- John L.
ANSWER 2: Hello Rene,
First of all, I'd like to say that John was correct. For instance, if you
take a picture of something and, it comes out too light or too dark you will
see this on your slide. With a negative the print may be lightened or
darkened to help hide this fact. Most people that like picture (prints)
prefer negatives while people that photograph for art (or are trying to
learn photography) prefer slides. It lets you see what you actually did,
instead of a correction of what you did. This helps you know for future
references what you need to look out for. Also, it shows you the changes in
your photographing techniques that you need to make in order to take good
pictures. Then you won't have to wonder if they all will come out in most
situations. This way when you take family pictures or candids you can use
print film and feel confident about the outcome. Special events (weddings,
etc.) are usually on negative films (print films) also. Thus, after
practicing with slide film you can feel confident in telling the bride and
groom you can do their wedding when you are asked. You won't feel so worried
about how the finished products will look. Of course, practice makes
perfect. Good luck and hope you enjoy your hobby as much as I do.
- Mark B.
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*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 3: First Studio Set-Up for Preschool Shoot
Ok, I'll start from the beginning, again...
I'm shooting a preschool next month. I've been doing some extensive research
and have gotten some excellent advice from this site and from a major
distributor of studio equipment. This is what has been recommended and I'd
love to hear from all of you to see if you agree...
Keep in mind that I'm just starting out...
A Minolta AutoMeter IVF and a SP 1600 Excalibur lighting kit (which includes
a stand and umbrella.) And, I plan to just go out and buy some fabric to
tape up for the backdrop. What do you think?
I obviously want this to be as professional as possible, but it doesn't have
to be state of the art right now. I had planned to buy a pro backdrop
system, but wasn't aware of how much the flash meter would set me back.
I'd love to hear what you all think... I need to place this order soon so I
have time to practice before I shoot.
Thanks!
- Amber M.
ANSWER 1: Sounds great. How many lights come in the kit? Or is it just one?
Backdrops are easy to make and much cheaper than buying the pre-fabbed ones.
I can give you some pointers if you are interested. You can make your own
and then all you need is a stand.
- Jeff K.
ANSWER 2: Thanks! I was hoping you'd say that! lol
Just one light, unfortunately, but I think it will be okay since this isn't
a "real" professional shoot.
Absolutely would love pointers on making backdrops!!!
Thanks, again!
- Amber M.
ANSWER 3: Hi Amber - Jim here...
I just did a shoot of a 30-year high school reunion. In addition to doing
some digital shots for their Web site, they allowed me to set up a portable
studio in a corner. I charge people for portraits, had a great time, and
made good money... anyway...
First, you can rent a light meter. I did this for many years and the 10
bucks or so is much more manageable than the high price of buying one. Once
you know you like doing this kind of photography, I highly recommend that
Minolta AutoMeter IV F - I love mine.
Even though this is not as professional or formal, get as prepared as you
can and treat it like a pro shoot. I can't tell you how much I recommend at
least two lights. One light will look way worse, unless you have an
assistant with a reflector (and this is much trickier than simply using two
lights). Again, if you can, consider renting the second light.
Lastly, go for muslin as a nice backdrop material. You can dye it if you
would like a little color. Then hem the edges and sew a loop into the top
end. You can then stick this through a pole to hang it. Many backdrop
support systems use such a pole - it will look a lot better than taping or
pining it to the wall. You can also get white seamless paper and tape that
to the wall but I am weary of recommending it considering your subject. The
kids will likely be very active and they could easily wreck a paper backdrop
in a matter of minutes. (Gotta love the little tickers...)
By the way, I also rented my backdrop support system - $10 for the weekend
from Glazer's in Seattle. Calumet, Samy's in LA, and Gassers in SF also
rent.
Hope that helps!
- BetterPhoto.com
ANSWER 4: Thanks for the great advice!
Couple of questions... First of all, where can I find someone to rent met
his equipment? I've looked online, but it seems most companies rent locally,
and I don't believe there are any equipment rentals where I live...
As for the lighting... how would I position the lights and why would I need
two? Also, could you recommend a lighting kit?
Backdrops... this may be a stupid question, but where would I hang it? I'm
shooting at a preschool and I'm not sure where they're going to have me...
Thank you so much for your input... it was greatly needed and appreciated. I
really need to place my equipment order next week so I have time to
practice...
- Amber M.
ANSWER 5: Hi Amber,
Those are tough problems that come up each photo shoot. While the rental
shops do mostly rent local, I seem to remember Glazer's in Seattle shipping
out an order from time to time. It all depends on where you live.
I really like the PhotoGenic lighting kits - great strobes at a good price.
The backdrop is a tough one that only you can scope out. But address it you
must if they want that kind of picture. If they are just after a group
portrait, the classroom as the background may be fine. But if they want
individual portraits, I would set up my backdrop in some corner or just
outside the room (it does take up a lot of space...). Even if they say "any
old background is fine," I shoot with the backdrop - they always like the
results better than a cluttered, distracting background. And you are the
expert, after all...
Read my article on Digital Studio Techniques for more. It's geared around
the digital but a lot of it will help you with film-based shooting, too:
http://www.betterphoto.com/digital/DigitalStudioTechniques.asp
Cheers,
- BetterPhoto.com
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*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 4: Distortion of Downloaded Pictures
Why do some pictures come out distorted after downloading from film reader?
There seems to be some blotches or just simple disfiguration when viewing
pictures from any basic imaging software.
- Rick L.
ANSWER 1: Rick,
I'm a bit confused by what you mean by "film reader." Is this a film
scanner? Are you trying to scan APS or 35mm negatives or slides?
- John L.
ANSWER 2: John,
I have a Lexar digital film reader that downloads my digital pictures from
my memory flash card or camera disk to my CPU. After downloading all
pictures, I notice that some pictures are distorted when trying to view. The
reason I use the film reader, is because it's much faster to download than
downloading from the camera (HP).
- Rick L.
See Sample Photo - "4 of July Picnic"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=4022
ANSWER 3: Rick,
Thanks. I was thinking it may be a film scanner. The image looks like you
have a "banding" problem in how data is being pulled off of the camera
memory (by firewire??).
This may be something you already know. Lexor's web site is here:
http://www.lexarmedia.com/
Their support area is here:
http://www.lexarmedia.com/support/support_main.html
Didn't see anything in their FAQ or "troubleshooting" area, but it's worth
you looking also. The menu on their support page (upper left) also has
hyperlinks for new/updated drivers. Ensure you are using the most current
drivers for your reader and computer operating system. The last item on the
menu is "Live Support" which I recommend using if nothing else works. It
looks like it sets up a chat with Lexar support people.
Sorry I cannot help you more than this. I use film exclusively and am
unfamiliar with the brand of reader you have.
- John L.
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*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 5: Trees in Foreground are Black
I shot this photo in Missouri at a family reunion. There where several of us
taking shots of the great sunset, and I stuck around after everyone else
packed up and left. That's when I got this shot. My question concerns the
composition of this shot - should I have not included the trees in the
foreground? Do they take away from the shot, or do they add to it?
- Tom H.
See Sample Photo - "Tiger head"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=3665
ANSWER 1: Tom, Aren't you glad you stayed around for this one?
Sunsets and sunrises will almost always silhouette the horizon if the sky is
properly exposed. This is normal and expected in these types of images.
Exceptions can include urban skyscrapers which may be illuminated some by
the "afterglow" in the sky (also quite normal).
Including the horizon in a sunrise or sunset anchors the image and gives the
viewer a point of reference or orientation (where am I looking). Omitting
the horizon should have some very compelling reason to do so (possibly an
abstract, but the sky requires something very, very unique about it to stand
alone and work). In addition, placing it very low as you have is quite
common. The subject is the sky and you only need enough of the horizon to
anchor the image across the entire bottom.
BTW, you did an excellent job of getting a level horizon (a common error).
- John L.
ANSWER 2: Oops . . . let me clarify the last sentence:
You want a level horizon (which you did well). The common error is not
having it perfectly level. Even very slightly tilted is easily noticed in a
print, but is harder to detect in the viewfinder.
- John L.
ANSWER 3: Hi John,
Thanks for the input, I am slowly learning to be more aware of the
surroundings and I must admit, I spent a great deal of time getting the
horizon to look level while framing this shot. My tripod is now my favorite
piece of equipment!
- Tom H.
ANSWER 4: Tom, Yes! It is called "seeing" or what Ansel Adams termed
"visualizing." Developing the skill of being able to envision what the
photograph will look like in your mind is one of the first steps toward
embracing the concept of "making" photographs.
If you do not have a leveling bubble on your tripod head you can get one
that slides into the camera hot shoe at a major camera store. Look for one
that can be used to level the camera whether it's turned horizontal or
vertical, and put it into the hot shoe carefully so that it's aligned well.
Makes it much easier, although it's still very wise to check the viewfinder.
Take care with thinking about composition and setting up your shots, and
you'll eventually begin to automatically scan things such as viewfinder
edges for alignment with vertical and horizontal lines.
- John L.
ANSWER 5: I love my tripod as well, there is just one thing, and it may be
my imagination, but when setting up my tripod I always look to be sure the
bubble is aligned. I have found that not all landscapes or subjects are
level to the ground I have my tripod set on. Is this amazing or am I just
seeing things?
- Debbie G.
ANSWER 6: Hi Debbie,
Actually, the trees at the bottom of the photo where running in a diagonal
line away from my position, so the camera was not level with the ground (or
tree line). That's just a forced perspective. I have found the bubble on my
tripod to be pretty much useless, and rarely even glance at it. I will
usually frame the shot, then take many shots of the subject, and make a few
minor adjustments along the way. I carry a stenographers notebook with me
and make notes on just about every shot I take. It drives people crazy, they
think I'm nuts, but I have some great photos for my effort, and a stack of
notebooks I have used for reference many times.
- Tom H.
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*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 6: The Best Imaging Software via a Scanner
What software is the best, easiest, most user-friendly, and all-around
top-of-the-range product for scanning photographs and creating pictures from
still camera images? I am currently using Ulead Photo Express 2.0 which is
just okay. It is confusing when trying to locate files. Any ideas?
- Sean M.
ANSWER 1: Two software packages stand out from when I realized something
more sophisticated was needed for my web images. Following are my opinions
about them:
1. Photoshop:
Underlying philosophy of user interface and methods are "graphic arts" but
it is perhaps the most sophisticated and by far the most popular. There is a
learning curve to using some of the powerful tools in it.
2. Picture Window:
By Digital Light & Color, the underlying philosophy of user interface and
methods are traditional darkroom work and it is very nearly as
sophisticated. The learning curve is eased by default settings that work
very, very well. This allows the end user to ease into more sophisticated
image manipulation as experience is gained.
- John L.
Photoshop Image Editing Software:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=951
Digital Light & Color:
http://www.dl-c.com/
ANSWER 2: Sean,
I also have PhotoShop, but as John mentioned, there is a long learning
curve.
My primary software is PhotoSuite from MGI. I currently have versions 4.0
Platinum and 8.0 (which mimics Photoshop at a much lower price). I find
PhotoSuite to do nearly everything I need and want it to do with my photos.
It is more of an intuitive program than Photoshop and can be used easily
right out of the shoot. It scans, edits, touches up, organizes and prints
your photos (plus much much more). I like being able to print out "photo
package" sheets with a variety of print sizes. I take hundreds of digital
and standard photos every week, and I heavily rely on PhotoSuite, much
moreso than PhotoShop. I'd be happy to provide some examples if you're
interested.
- Jennifer D.
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*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 7: Adding Filters to Point and Shoot Camera
How can I add a filter to my point & shoot camera?
- Remarry Kamath
ANSWER 1: For most point & shoots, your options are limited. The only thing
you can do - and it is not a bad method - is to hold the filter in front of
your lens with one hand while shooting with the other. If you have an
assistant or friend, ask him or her to hold your filter. Whoever does the
holding, make sure that nothing obstructs the light meter or the autofocus
sensor. And keeps all thumbs, etc. out of the picture ;^)
By the way, some point & shoots do accept filters; look to see if there are
threads around your lens. If so, you can get the diameter from the camera or
your manual. Most pro shops will order these smaller filters for you to
screw onto your point & shoot.
- BetterPhoto.com
ANSWER 2: Hi Ramraya!
I always use an SLR camera as you can be much more creative with them;
adding filters, lenses, etc. I have experimented with compact cameras,
especially when I do not want to carry all the SLR equipment around. The
following is worth a try and very inexpensive.
You can hold plastic sweet wrappers over your lens, the coloured type from
roses, etc. Smooth out the wrapper as best you can first. You MUST tell your
processor that you have used a filter or they will automatically colour
correct your prints.
Another 'filter' you can use is a part of a pair of tights or stockings
stretched over your lens, this acts like a diffuser and will take the sharp
edges off your image. This is good if you are taking pictures of more mature
people as it will make them more flattening! Give it a go and see what you
think or invest in an SLR that is fully automatic, good-luck,
- Sharon C.
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