SnapShot Archives - 04/31/2001
SNAPSHOT - PHOTO NEWS FROM BETTERPHOTO.COM
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Welcome to SnapShot, the weekly newsletter on the art
of photography from http://www.betterphoto.com
~~~~~~~~~~~
IN THIS ISSUE
~~~~~~~~~~~
Friday, June 01, 2001
* SPOTLIGHT: Tired of Do-It-Yourself Digital Editing?
* BETTERPHOTO: Welcome to the 55th Issue of SnapShot
* BETTERPHOTO: Search by Date for Most Recent Questions or Discussions
* BETTERPHOTO: You Can Now Categorize Your Own Photo Uploads
* PHOTO LINK: Need Ideas? Go Look at the Most Popular Photos
* PHOTO LINK: Or View Thousands of Photos at Freefoto.com
* PHOTO TRIVIA QUESTION: Habitual Photography / Viking Images
* THIS WEEK'S TIP: Turning Off the Autofocus
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 1: Nightclub Photos
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 2: Why Won't My Camera Take Pictures in Low Light?
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 3: Downloading Photographs in Raw Format Quickly
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 4: All About Light Meter Reading
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 5: Shooting Homes Using Digital
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 6: Film Type Question
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 7: Wedding Photography
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 8: Problems Photographing Gold
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 9: DOF Chart
* NEW PHOTO Q&A 10: Pyrogallic Acid Developer
* CONTINUING Q&A 1: Understanding Depth of Field Better
* CONTINUING Q&A 2: How to Market or Compete with Photographs
* CONTINUING Q&A 3: Sunny F16 Rule
* CONTINUING Q&A 4: Filters
* CONTINUING Q&A 5: Nikkor Portrait Lens
* CONTINUING Q&A 6: What Film for Africa?
* CONTINUING Q&A 7: Selection of Class of Printer
* CONTINUING Q&A 8: How do I Print Postcards from CD?
* CONTINUING Q&A 9: Spots on B&W Film
* CONTINUING Q&A 10: Choosing A Scanner
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
IN THE SPOTLIGHT - A WORD FROM THIS WEEK'S SPONSOR
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Tired of Do-It-Yourself Digital Editing?
Image Edit & Art is the place to go when you want affordable high-quality
custom editing for your digital images. Our artists are experts in
retouching, restoration, photo-illustration, digital handcoloring and more.
Our services start at $10 per image and all orders are managed through a
convenient Web-based system. See what we can do for you at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/rdrt.asp?rid=image-edit
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
WHAT'S NEW AT BETTERPHOTO.COM
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Welcome to the 55th Issue of SnapShot
What a busy week here at BetterPhoto! We have been burning the midnight oil.
We are gearing up for an exciting photo workshop in the Provence region of
southern France with Bryan Peterson. Lavender and sunflower fields,
cobblestone roads, castles, and ancient villages at dawn... Can't wait to
share the photos :)
Other than that, I've been making a few changes in an effort to enhance the
site. Below are a couple of the new features.
Enjoy and thanks for the support!
Jim
*****
Search by Date for Most Recent Questions or Discussions
Thanks to a suggestion from BetterPhoto member Kris, I have added a date
search option on the BetterPhoto Q&A and on the Photo Discussions page. Now,
you can find only the most recent inquires, answers, critiques, or comments.
Visit the appropriate page below to give it a spin. With the pull down menus
near the top of the page, set the date from which you would like to search
and click the Search button:
BetterPhoto Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/qnaTOC.asp
BetterPhoto Photo Discussions:
http://www.betterphoto.com/discTOC.asp
*****
You Can Now Categorize Your Own Photo Uploads
You may have noticed - we have a lot of images in the "Recent Arrivals"
category of the Photo Galleries. Now, when you upload a photo, you can place
it in the appropriate category. After you upload a picture and see the
"Success!" confirmation page, you will see a link to "Categorize this photo"
under each picture. Click the link and then use the pull down menus to give
your new image a home. Select a top level category from the top menu first
(most people will probably want to choose "Subject Matter of Photo"). Then
pick from the next menu down. Follow this pattern until there are no more
categories to choose from:
Share your photos to learn or help others learn photography! Submit them
using the Image Upload link near the bottom of the Gallery page:
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery.asp
P.S. This categorization tool requires JavaScript and seems to work best
with Internet Explorer. If you experience difficulties, you don't have to
categorize the photo; we will for you.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
PHOTO LINKS
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Need Ideas? Go Look at the Most Popular Photos
If you haven't checked it out yet, Webshots is a very cool site. You can
view new photos every day, enjoy a new image as your desktop wallpaper, or
visit their most popular downloads:
http://www.webshots.com/explore/gen/top/topdownloadedphotos_1.html
*****
Or View Thousands of Photos at Freefoto.com
With over 16,000 high quality photographs that are free to view and download
for non-commercial users, this site showcases some beautiful images. Take a
look:
http://www.freefoto.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
PHOTO TRIVIA QUIZ OF THE WEEK
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Habitual Photography
Last week, we asked:
In which movie does Harvey Keitel play a character who takes one photograph
from the same street corner every day?
The correct answer - entered by BetterPhoto member ficp05 - is:
"Smoke"
To hone your art, take shooting a similar shot each day as your photo
assignment. Or watch the movie when you want to take a break:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/6303855512/graphiqueA/
And Now... This Week's Question - Viking Images
The Viking 1, 2 made the first pictures shot from which planet's surface in
1975?
Answer this question online:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/trivia.asp
~~~~~~~~~~~
THIS WEEK'S PHOTO TIP
~~~~~~~~~~~
Turning Off the Autofocus
Here's a tip for those of you with 35mm point and shoot cameras: check to
see if you can turn off your autofocus or lock it to the "infinity" setting.
This is a cool feature that comes in handy when you are trying to take a
picture through a window or in other tough situations. For instance, if you
are in an airplane and banking over a beautiful view, you will want to make
sure the camera focuses on the subject instead of trying to focus on the
window. Same thing goes for your photo trip to the aquarium; pictures of the
fish are generally much prettier than blurry images of the tank. (Also, in
both of the above cases, remember to turn off your flash so you don't get a
flash of glare reflected back into your camera.)
If you use a 35mm SLR camera, you don't have to worry as much about this
focus lock feature. As you are taking the picture, you should be able to see
for yourself if it is in focus or not.
Top Ten Tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/tips.asp
More tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/allTips.asp
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
ADVERTISEMENT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Advertise Your Business Here
Reach over 8600 SnapShot subscribers with news of your product or service.
To set up your ad or learn more about your other options, visit our
advertising department at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/g/advertise.asp
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A - NEW THIS WEEK
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
NEW QUESTION 1: Nightclub Photos
I have been trying to get shots of my husband's band and can't seem to get
it right.
I need specific info on what speed the film should be, what the aperture
should be set at, and what shutter speed. Everything I try comes out over or
under exposed. My camera has a TTL lightmeter and it's impossible to see the
needle in a nightclub setting. What can I do??
I'm a total amateur but would really like to take good gig photos. Any help
would be appreciated.
P.S. --stupid question-- what does a "fast lens" mean?
- Tina
ANSWER 1: A fast lens is one with a very wide aperture. For example a
standard 50mm lens with an aperture of f1.4-f1.8 is considered fast. Fast
refers to the fact that with the lens set at its widest aperture you use
higher shutter speeds. So the wider the aperture the faster the shutter
speed. It is essential for this kind of shooting.
The best way to shoot this sort of scene is to pre-meter your shots. Get
there early and take meter readings off of a gray card or your palm (open a
stop if you do this) wherever you know you will be shooting. You don't say
what film you will be using. I have always used a high speed black and white
film like Ilford Delta 3200. The last time I shot there was no light on the
band so I shot at 3200 and push processed the film a stop and got good
results. Most of my shots were at f1.5 @ 1/30th. You can determine what ISO
will work best when you pre-meter. That's another reason I like films like
Delta 3200 or Tri-x. You can push them or pull them for great results. I
have heard good things about the Delta shot at 1600 though I haven't tried
it yet.
- Jeff
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1947
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1947
*****
NEW QUESTION 2: Why Won't My Camera Take Pictures in Low Light?
I was attending a wedding this past weekend and was asked to take some
photos of the reception. The reception was held in a theater and the only
light that was available was from the bar (it was pretty dark).
I know that with my point and shoot camera I could've snapped many pictures
and they would have all turned out. With my SLR camera, the camera wouldn't
even take a picture. I know it wasn't just my camera because I had a friend
there that was also taking pictures with her SLR camera and it didn't work
either. We're pretty sure it was because it was pretty dim lighting, but
we're not sure how we could have set up the camera to make it work in the
low light. We figure if our cheaper point and shoot could do it, so should
our expensive SLRs! Please let me know if you have any suggestions.
- Heather
ANSWER 1: What brand and model SLR were you using? Some models are designed
to not fire when in full auto mode if autofocus cannot be confirmed and/or
if the meter reads extreme over/under exposure.
You should be able to shoot if you switch to manual focus or "creative"
mode. For example, I think the Canon Rebel 2000 has these fail-safes when
you shoot in "green box" or one of the PIC modes (Portrait, Landscape,
Sports,...). If you switch to mode P, Av, Tv or M you will be able to shoot
in the conditions you described.
- Jon
ANSWER 2: I have a Minolta HTsi and my friend has a Nikon. At first both of
us had it on full auto mode, then we both switched it to fully manual - and
we still had the same problem. We did not switch to manual focus though - do
you think this would solve the problem?
- Heather
Minolta HTsi SLR Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=899
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1945
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1945
*****
NEW QUESTION 3: Downloading Photographs in Raw Format Quickly
How do I download images in RAW Format quickly to my application (which is
Adobe Photoshop 6). I use a SanDisc card reader to download which is quicker
than using the camera. Would a self-powered card reader be better and is
there is one available for my camera (a Canon EOS D30 ).
- Alistair
Adobe Photoshop 6 for PC:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=931
Canon EOS D30 Digital Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=966
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1944
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1944
*****
NEW QUESTION 4: All About Light Meter Reading
I have just purchased a Gossen Sixtino light meter. I know how to read off
readings. Could you explain an incident reading, i.e. where do I point the
meter to measure it?
Could you explain a reflected reading? Where do I point the meter to measure
it? What are the reasons for taking 2 different reading?
The Gossen Sixtino is an older model light meter; however, it is accurate
when compared to the reading off my Nikon F70. I have heard the term
diffusing disc - is this the creamy coloured shutter which can be rolled
across front of the meter? When does this need to be used? Regards,
- Roland
ANSWER 1: For incident readings the generally accepted method is to always
point the meter towards the camera. There are those who always point it at
the main light source. Either way will work it is just a matter of
consistency. Pointing at the camera will make sure you are reading light
from all light sources if there is more than one. I use incident readings
70-80% of the time.
Reflected readings indicate how much light is reflected from the subject
based upon 18% gray. For reflected you point at the subject. The resulting
reading is the exposure required to make that subject appear 18% gray in the
shot. If your subject happens to be something other than 18% gray then you
have to compensate to make it lighter or darker. That's why I like incident
readings. The light is what it is and you don't have to compensate no matter
what shade your subject is.
Reflected readings are handy for the zone system since it is all about
shades of gray. I use reflected readings when the light is tricky such as
strong side lighting.
The diffusing disc should be in place when taking incident readings.
- Jeff
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1942
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1942
*****
NEW QUESTION 5: Shooting Homes Using Digital
Our little photography company, Mc Square, has been retained by a branch of
Coldwell Banker Real Estate to take photos of newly listed homes, both
interior and exterior, then create a one or two page flyer including photos
and write ups, that we also generate.
Because of the need for rapid turnaround time for new listings in a very
"hot" market, we are thinking that using digital cameras may be the way to
go. My question is: What digital cameras should we be evaluating for
purchase, considering the need to have some lens flexibility to do wider
angle exterior shots, as well as tighter interior shots of individual rooms?
Thanks for any feedback!
- Dick
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1939
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1939
*****
NEW QUESTION 6: Film Type Question
I typically use your basic Kodak Gold or Fuji Superia brand films. Made the
horrific mistake of trying Target brand film... save yourself some grief...
don't go there!
Anyway, if I were inclined to try another type of film (non C-41), what
would you recommend? Will my Canon Rebel accept anything other than C-41?
(FYI: I don't want to try slides and I have some C-41 B&W that I haven't
used yet. I have the perfect object I want to shoot with it but due to a
banged up knee, I haven't been able to hike to the spot I need to get to
:-))
Again, many thanks!
- Joy
Kodak Gold:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=340
Fuji Superia:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=300
Canon Rebel:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=228
ANSWER 1: First of all cameras don't care what kind of film you put in as
long as it's the right size. Next, if you don't want slide film and you want
something other than C41 film then you are left with black and white film.
There are so many black and white films out there that it would really be
nice to know more information. What are you planning on shooting? What do
you want the final images to look like? What is your style of shooting?
Without much info I would be inclined to say shoot some Tri-x. It's pretty
much fool proof (no offense intended).
- Jeff
Tri-x:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=370
ANSWER 2: None taken :-)
My main subjects are my two kids (ages 3 and 7), my GSD pup (10 months) and
nature/scenery photos.
I guess a better question would be what to try other than Kodak Max or Fuji
Superia?
I appreciate your time in answering my questions!
- Joy
ANSWER 3: Well, when you say other than C-41 what exactly do you mean? You
don't say why you are wanting to switch from K-Gold and Superia - both good
films. There isn't one magic film out there that will solve all your
problems. The best approach to films is to find one you like and learn how
to use it. Find out how it handles different light, how it acts when you
push it, what exposure index works best for you, etc.
- Jeff
ANSWER 4: Hi Jeff :-) The reason I was asking about other films was strictly
to try something different. The only speed of film I haven't tried is ISO
100. I haven't used traditional B&W nor the new B&W that can be processed in
color print machines (even though I have used *that* film in my P&S).
As I posted in another question, I have purchased some TMAX 100 and TMAX 400
to experiment with.
Thanks for taking some time to answer my questions!
- Joy
TMAX 100:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=365
TMAX 400:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=367
ANSWER 5: Try a lot of films. There are places that discuss films and their
characteristics. This site must have that sort of information. Jim, help us
out here. Read about the different films and try them out. But remember,
with print film a lot is dependent on finding a good lab. There is so much
in the printing that can affect the appearance of your shots.
BTW what is a GSD?
- Jeff
ANSWER 6: You're absolutely right about finding a good lab. I think I find
"the one" tonight. Really liked the guy behind the counter. He showed me a
sample of their matte finish and I was drooling (matte being my favorite).
He's the one that talked me into trying the TMAX film and was just all
around very helpful and knowledgeable.
P.S. GSD = German Shepherd Dog :-) My "furkid". #3 in my photographic
subject priorities, behind my kids.
- Joy
ANSWER 7: It sounds like you are just interested in experimenting and
playing around. That's great! (Most people get so caught up in worrying
about things like film that they forget to have fun - I applaud your
attitude.)
Jeff's advice is right on target. The only other film I might recommend for
someone wanting to experiment is infrared. This film creates an other
worldly feel, especially when combined with the use of a few filters.
Unfortunately, the Rebel cannot handle it (this is one unusual exception to
the general rule that cameras don't care what kind of film you put in). If
you can use another camera, you might enjoy experimenting with this film.
Very cool results can come from it.
As far as a good page that describes the pros and cons of various films, I
will have to keep my eye open for you...
Enjoy the experimenting. With you playing with various films and Kris
getting such kicks out of chasing bugs around in the desert, it appears that
the BetterPhoto members are having fun. :)
- BetterPhoto.com
ANSWER 8: Joy,
Agree with all the above. Several points not already brought out.
1. "C-41" is the chemistry and process definition for developing color
negative film. Other than a couple of real odd-balls based on cinema film
(which I don't recommend; they're not designed for still photography), all
color negative is processed "C-41."
2. The "C-41" B/W film you have has the same structure as color negative,
complete with all three color layers (cyan, magenta and yellow). The generic
name for this type of film is "chromogenic B/W." The layers react to light
much the same way as color films do. The difference is when it's processed,
the layers render shades of gray instead of cyan, magenta and yellow
respectively. By comparison, TMAX, a true B/W film, has a single emulsion
layer (making its developing completely different).
3. When you process your C-41 B/W processed, have it done by a lab which can
switch to B/W paper in the print machine. There are now chromogenic B/W
print papers which some labs have and some do not. Having it printed on
color paper may leave you disappointed as it's almost impossible to color
balance the results to pure B/W, even with the best of technicians operating
the machine. Held next to prints on true B/W paper (even if it's the
chromogenic type) there is usually a slight greenish or bluish cast to them.
Note that your TMAX will undoubtedly be printed on true B/W paper when it's
developed as it will go to a B/W lab.
- John
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1935
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1935
*****
NEW QUESTION 7: Wedding Photography
Hi, I have been volunteered to photograph a friend's wedding. I have a Nikon
F70 and a range of lenses (Nikon 28-80mm D, Sigma 28-200 D). I have also
just purchased a 70-300mm manual Clubman and I have a 135mm Carl Zeiss Jena
manual.
When taking wide angle photos, the Sigma 28-200 distorts the image on the
right hand side of the photo. Is this common with lenses?
Can you please give me any advice on which of these lenses will be best on
the wedding day? Is the 135mm Carl Zeiss a particularly good lens for
portraits or should I use the other lenses at the 135mm setting? Because
these two lenses are manual, are they at a disadvantage in this situation
compared to autofocus lenses? If so, which lenses would you recommend.
Which filters are best for the occasion? I have a warm up lens to fit the
135mm and a cross screen to fit the 70-300. Is this a portrait enhancing
filter?
I will be taking some indoor photos using flash (Cobra 700AF Nikon
dedicated). What is your advice on diffusers, etc.? Regards,
- Roland
Nikon N70/F70:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=455
ANSWER 1: Roland,
Doing weddings is not easy, nor is it for the timid, meek or "faint of
heart." Been there; done them.
The most important aspect of shooting a wedding is planning . . . which it
looks like you've started to do . . . but there's more to it than you might
think.
Second most important, but not by much, is the KISS principle (Keep it
Simple!). I used a single 50mm lens on a manual focus camera body for all
but the formal portraiture which was done using an 80mm lens on an M645
medium format (standard focal length for MF). There's no reason you cannot
use a manual focus camera. There's also no reason you cannot do everything
with 35mm film format. I just happen to have medium format gear.
Third, and part of your question asks about this, is lighting (flash). In
most churches, synagogues, and reception halls you need a lot of it;
shooting distances will be farther and the light must fill a larger space
than the average amateur is accustomed to.
This topic is enough to fill a book. After doing a cousin's wedding I
started writing a tutorial for the amateur who, for one reason or another,
will be shooting a wedding. If Jim will forgive me for posting it, here is a
link to the 80% completed tutorial.
- John
John Lind's Work in Progress - Tutorial on Wedding Photography:
http://johnlind.tripod.com/wedding/
ANSWER 2: Thanks John. I am in process of printing off your tutorial. You
have a knack of answering the questions I have even before you knew what I
was going to ask them. Anyone reading this should click on to John's
tutorial. Nothing else to read except good (but incomplete) pages. (Hurry up
& finish them before my assignment. PLEASE.) Seriously John, GREAT PAGE.
THANKS.
- Roland
ANSWER 3: Hey Roland. John is right - K.I.S. (keep it simple). I would only
take the Nikon 28-80mm lens and the 135mm just in case you should be able to
shoot the entire wedding with the Nikon. Looks like the best glass you have.
It will give you wide shots (for group), and almost portrait. The secret to
doing a good wedding is the light and film. Get the best light you can rent
or have to go along with auto focus. Now for film use the Kodak 160 Portra;
it has a 4 stop latitude over or under so you will get a photo no matter
what.
Good Shooting
- Mr. T
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1931
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1931
*****
NEW QUESTION 8: Problems Photographing Gold
I'm trying to take some jewelry pictures for my girlfriend and have run into
a problem of the gold looking a little too light or possibly silvery.
My set up is kind of a hillbilly one. A Pentax K-1000 with a Sigma 50mm
macro lens. I'm using Fuji Provia 100F slide film. The camera is mounted to
a tripod and I'm shooting straight down onto a piece of black velvet. When
shooting, I cover myself, the camera and subject all with a white sheet,
while outdoors using only bright Arizona sunshine. I'm using no filters of
any kind, and suspect this may be my problem. Any advice of any kind would
be greatly appreciated.
- Kerry
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1905
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1905
*****
NEW QUESTION 9: DOF Chart
Ok, Can anyone find me a good easy to use DOF chart that is in feet and
inches instead of the annoying meters. I use a 28-80mm lens, and 100-300mm.
THANKS.
- Stephen
ANSWER 1: Stephen,
DOF is dependent on focus distance, aperture and focal length. With a zoom
lens, it's not really possible to create a single chart. However, I am
uploading four for 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, and 80mm focal lengths. The aperture is
shown on the left. Focus distance is shown across the top. For the aperture
and focus distance the "near" and "far" are the boundaries of the DOF. All
distances are in feet. The circle of confusion used to create them is
0.025mm, making them applicable to 35mm film format.
- John
See Sample Photo - "DOF chart for 28mm focal length lens"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=2098
See Sample Photo - "DOF chart for 50mm focal length lens"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=2100
See Sample Photo - "DOF chart for 80mm focal length lens"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=2101
See Sample Photo - "DOF chart for 35mm focal length lens"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=2109
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1904
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1904
*****
NEW QUESTION 10: Pyrogallic Acid Developer
I'm looking for information on pyrogallic acid developing... formulas and
techniques. I currently have a formula, but it is rather complex, and some
of the terms and measurements are confusing. I'm hoping someone out there
has a simpler, more up-to-date recipe for me.
Thanks.
- Larry
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1892
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1892
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A - CONTINUING FROM PREVIOUS WEEK
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CONTINUING QUESTION 1: Understanding Depth of Field Better
I was using my lens on my camera to determine what is the best depth of
focus to use for sharp images, and here is what I have came up with, so if I
am wrong let me know, if I am right let me know, because I want to get the
best possible landscape pictures possible for my vacation. If I was focusing
on something about 16 feet away, I would set my aperture to f/16, instead of
f/22, or f/32 to get the sharpest results. If I was focusing on a main
subject between 8-12 feet away, I would set my aperture to f/9.5 (my camera
has that setting :D). Am I right so far? Another question I have is, when I
use the depth of field preview, the screen is either dark, or bright, and it
seems the smaller the opening the darker it is, so how do you determine how
much of the final shot is going to be in focus. Please help me.
- Stephen
ANSWER 1: As to the first part of your question, it all depends on what lens
you are using. As far as DOF preview the more you stop down, obviously, the
darker the image in the view finder. You can see the actual DOF but the
darker it gets the harder it is to see. It's just something you have to get
used to. Learn to use the DOF scale. It is pretty accurate.
- Jeff
ANSWER 2: With respect to your first question, it sounds as if you're
confusing the way the f-number is used. For flash photography, the maximum
useful range of the flash is determined by it's Guide Number divided by the
f/stop. In the case you're describing where you want sharp images and great
depth of field, the proper f/stop is not directly related to the subject
distance.
In general a lens's peak sharpness and contrast will be at 1-2 stops from
maximum aperture, regardless of the subject's distance. For an f/2.8 lens
that would be at f/4 or f/5.6. For an f/3.5-4.5 zoom that would be at f/5.6
or f/8.
Maximum depth of field is achieved at the smallest apertures. However, the
smallest apertures introduce diffraction errors. If you want both great
depth of field and sharpness you (in general) would not use an aperture
smaller than about f/8 to f/16.
On Kodak's Web site, there are explanations on setting the aperture for
maximum sharpness and getting maximum or minimum depth of field and
determining the hyperfocal distance.
- Jon
Kodak on Aperture for Maximum Sharpness:
http://www.betterphoto.com/rdrtNoAd.asp?rid=JonKodak1
Kodak on Depth of Field and Hyperfocal Distance:
http://www.betterphoto.com/rdrtNoAd.asp?rid=JonKodak2
ANSWER 3: The second URL has an interesting method for finding the
hyperfocal distance on lenses that have DOF markings, with a good example to
show how it works.
If you use lens DOF markings, be aware that you are relying on the lens
maker's definition of the maximum diameter for the "circle of confusion."
This determines where the boundaries lie for the front and rear of the DOF.
A smaller allowable circle of confusion will narrow the DOF markings and a
larger one will make them wider.
A miniscule point in space that is out of focus on film will create a
circle, not a point. The more out of focus the point is, the larger the
circle on film. This is a "circle of confusion." The maximum circle of
confusion is how big a point can be on the film before it can be detected
as being out of focus in a print by the average human viewing the print from
a normal distance (for the print size).
Because it is established using "average humans" and "normal print viewing
distances" the exact CofC value is somewhat subjective. For 35mm film, I
have seen definitions for the maximum circle of confusion range from 0.025mm
to 0.045mm. I use the conservative 0.025mm for building hyperfocal distance
and DOF tables. When I first noticed seeming differences between camera
lenses and various books a spreadsheet revealed the following:
CofC camera/lens/book
---------------------------------------
0.025mm: 40mm f/2.8 on a Rollei 35S
0.030mm: 50mm f/1.4 Zuiko (for Olympus OM SLR)
0.033mm: Kodak's "Pocket Photo Guide" (1989)
0.033mm: Kodak's online example (URL above)
0.045mm: Kodak's "Master Photo Guide" (1978)
0.045mm: 1950's vintage Zeiss Ikon Contax IIIa.
What does all this mean?
1. You can easily find different lenses (with DOF markings) and book tables
that give different distance numbers for the same focal length and lens
aperture!
2. If all you have is your lens markings, or a table that doesn't state the
CofC used (from book or other source) test it to see if results are
acceptable before relying on them for something critical. I now use one stop
tighter on the vintage Contax (f/11 markings for an f/16 lens aperture,
etc.).
3. Do the more conservative CofC assumptions imply newer lenses are better
lens designs and have more resolution? No. The Zeiss f/1.5 Sonnar lens on my
1950's vintage Contax has world class resolution and contrast, easily
rivaling the finest lenses made today! The tightest DOF markings are on a 22
year old lens (40mm f/2.8 Zeiss Sonnar on the Rollei 35S). The range of
values found doesn't seem to correlate to lens age or film improvements over
time.
- John
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1884
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1884
*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 2: How to Market or Compete with Photographs
I have been taking photographs for years and I recently moved back to the
States from Athens, Greece.
I have taken three or four great pictures that people ask to buy on a
regular basis when they see the print. I really believe that I could enter
them in contests or sell them to a business or something. I just don't even
know where to start.
One is a great photo of an amazingly colorful door that I took in an alley
in Greece - it is great. I also have some amazing shots of the Acropolis in
Greece. And lastly, I have a portrait of a little girl that I caught at just
the right moment.
I really believe that I could enter these or market them... but what do I
do? Where to do I start? Please help.
thank you!!
- Jamie
ANSWER 1: For tips and leads on selling your work, a great place to start is
Photographer's Market.
For a comprehensive listing of photo contests, visit
http://www.photocontestguide.com/
- BetterPhoto.com
Photographer's Market:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=930
ANSWER 2: The contest guide link above is old... Last updated 11/00. :-(
One place that will get you some great exposure is a state or county fair.
Here in SoCal, the Orange County Fair is coming up and I have 3 shots
submitted.
Also, major metro zoos usually have photo contests (images must be taken
there).
- Don
ANSWER 3: Thanks for pointing out that photo contest link has gotten a
little stale.
- BetterPhoto.com
ANSWER 4: I work for the company alamy.com where anyone can submit images -
as long as they are of the required technical (i.e. scanned) standard. This
sounds like a pitch for the company, but I truly believe that it could be a
good place to try out some sales of these images. Go to the site and have a
look...
(click on 'Contributors/Submit images' to find out how to submit). Good
luck.
- Libby
alamy.com:
http://www.alamy.com/
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1878
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1878
*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 3: Sunny F16 Rule
What is the F16 rule for sunrises and sunsets and what's its purpose?
- Stephen
ANSWER 1: Stephen,
There really is no "f/16" rule for sunrises and sunsets. The amount of
lighting changes quickly at during sunrises and sunsets. Don't know if this
is the "best" method; it's what has worked for me. I meter the sky as that
is the primary subject of interest, and let the skyline become silhouetted.
Don't meter directly into the sun if it is still above the horizon or you
will underexpose. Place the sun slightly out of view.
- John
ANSWER 2: John's right - the Sunny 16 rule is not meant for shooting
sunrises and sets. Check out this glossary page for a definition of the
Sunny 16 rule, as it is applied to bright daylight shooting.
- BetterPhoto.com
ANSWER 3: If you insist on shooting sunsets (wink) or anything else on color
film for that matter you should learn to use the modified zone system for
color. Its all about getting used to what colors record as 18% and which
colors are how many stops from that. I have a chart somewhere that lists
general guidelines for it. I'll see if I can find it. Basically, as it
applies to sunsets, you would meter that part of the sky that you want to
register as a mid tone or find a part of the sky that you want to register
white and open 2 stops. Its all about spot metering and placing the values
where you want them.
- Jeff
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1876
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1876
*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 4: Filters
Hi. My name is Daniel Osborne. I live in Adelaide, South Australia. Firstly
I would like to congratulate the creators of this site. It has provided much
inspiration and motivation for me. I have a Canon EOS 300 with a 28-90mm. I
guess I should say I am very much a beginner and have only taken 300 odd
shots with my new SLR. I am after opinions from 'the great ones' on my
direction in amateur photography. I am working on a limited budget and have
only got the camera, lens, a tripod and remote control and have just bought
I couple of filters.
OK OK your wondering what the question is. Well I feel as though I need to
settle into the type of photography that first inspired me. Culture and the
people that create it. And capturing their richness in B & W images. Second
to this is a general interest in landscapes.
I want to know if the filters I have purchased will be of any use as it is
hard to find good advice at the local developer. I bought a HAMA Pol
Circular to bring out the colour and feeling in my landscapes and a HOYA
Yellow and Green (XO)to enhance my B & W people photography. Have I made the
right choice in my first two filters considering what I want to do?
Secondly the Pol Circ has a knob to rotate the filter. What does this do? I
cannot find any markings or graduations to set it in a particular place if
that is what it is used for. Please excuse my ignorance.
What are the advantages of the Yellow/Green(XO)in B&W? Are there
limitations. Sorry its so long, don't feel you need to answer it all!
What a wonderful adventure photography is! My creative side has been dying
to come out and I hope to discover it through capturing beautiful B & W
images of people and landscapes. All tips are welcome.. Thanks for your
time.
- Daniel
ANSWER 1: Hi. The knob you refer to rotates the filter. Hold your camera
looking at water, for instance. Then use the knob to rotate the filter. Hey
presto - you can see through the water; this is because you have eliminated
the glare and reflection. In most instances, this is the most pleasing
image. Try taking two different shots, one without polarizing (not turning
the knob) and one polarized (turning the knob till the reflections
disappear). Another effect the polarizer has it enriches blues and greens -
perfect for sea and grass shots.
- Roland
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1815
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1815
*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 5: Nikkor Portrait Lens
I have a Nikon N80 and I want to buy the best Nikkor lens for portraits. I
don't know if I should get a fixed lens or a zoom. Please help - any
information will be appreciated. I want the lens that will produce the
sharpest, clearest photos possible.
thanks
- Beth
Nikon N80 SLR Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=792
ANSWER 1: You may also want to try Nikon's DC lenses (Defocus Control) they
are made just for portrait / background shooting. But I also agree the 85mm
1.8 is a very good deal; I know I love my 85mm...
- blademan
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1772
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1772
*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 6: What Film for Africa?
Can anyone recommend film speeds and their different uses for Africa,
particularly wildlife through a 70-300mm (4.5-5.6) telephoto lens? Is this
lens enough? And what about the right shutter speed and exposure?
Much appreciated.
- federici.andrea
ANSWER 1: First I would like to tell you, that's a good choice of lens to
use, and make sure if your camera has AF that you take advantage of it. As
for film speed you will need at least 400 ISO. Why, because will need to
shoot a shutter speed of at least 250 or higher, and you need faster film to
compensate for this.
- Stephen
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1746
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1746
*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 7: Selection of Class of Printer
I am a serious amateur and plan to display enlargements of my 35mm work. I
would aim to have both quality and long life in my display. Of the various
classes of printer available - e.g., ink jet, laser, dye sub and others as
applicable, what class of printer would you recommend? Considering that I
will not be using this as a business enterprise - i.e., my expenditure on
the printer may be limited to the order of 2 to 3 thousand, is there a
printer that you might recommend? Thank you.
- joer
ANSWER 1: A few of us, i.e.. professional photographers who usually do our
own
b & w and colour printing, are now using an Epson printer that allows us to
print up to 15 x 20. It is the Epson 1270. We find it to give us results
that are on a par with hand prints in darkroom. Epson has recently
introduced a later version of this printer. I have not used it but an
acquaintance tells me it is superb in every way. Either of these special
Photo Epson Printers are within your budget.
- Charles
ANSWER 2: I definitely agree with Charles. I've got a 1270, and the prints
from it are beautiful. The main difference between the 1270 and the new one,
the 1280 is the resolution (1270 is 1440x720 dpi, 1280 is 2880x720 dpi).
It's 6-color printing, really tiny ink drops (4 picoliters), and does border
less prints. If you print on Epson matte heavyweight paper, the prints are
supposed to last 25 years. I think it goes for $500.
- Morgan
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1725
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1725
*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 8: How do I Print Postcards from CD?
I had my last roll of color film processed with a CD included. I would like
to print postcards of some of the photos to send back home to family
members. How or where do I go to do this?
- Margaret
ANSWER 1: Well... I can't imagine that there isn't anyone who answered this
one yet.
1. Do you have appropriate software?
2. Have you bought postcard stock? There are several companies that sell
prescored stock. Read there directions FIRST to make sure that it is
compatible with your printer and software.
3. Do you know enough about your printer to do this to your own
satisfaction?
I think the answer is read your manuals, check your software, and have a
blast.
- Jane
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1718
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1718
*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 9: Spots on B&W Film
I am getting spots on my film right out of the developing tank. They run the
entire length of my film and they look like dark waterspots. There are many
of them, and they are small.
- Cory
ANSWER 1: I am by no means an expert but when you are developing it you may
be agitating it too much causing air bubbles to get trapped on the film. I
like to agitate it 5 seconds for every 30 seconds in the developer. I
agitate it for the full 30 sec. in the stop. And agitate it every for 5 sec.
every 30 sec in the fixer. Good luck.
- Timothy
ANSWER 2: Also, my photography professor taught us to tap the canister three
times after you shake it for 5 seconds (or 10 if that's how you do it)
Example: You agitate your film for 5 seconds, tap 3 times, then let it rest
for 30 seconds. This can also eliminate those air bubbles. Of course, don't
tap TOO hard ;)
- Amy
ANSWER 3: Are you using distilled water in your developing? I agitate 10
seconds every minute during the developing which is about 4 or 5 full
shakes. I tap the tank on flat surface after first 10 seconds and after last
10 seconds. I also do a pre rinse in distilled water and a post rinse after
the fixer remover for about 30 seconds. A good book you might want to try
is The Basic Darkroom Book by Tom Grimm.
- William
The Basic Darkroom Book by Tom Grimm:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=985
ANSWER 4: Hi Cory:
As the others have stated the problem is with bubbles forming during
agitation. One of the key things to remember when you are developing
negatives is always do each step the same each time. This is especially
important with agitation. You should agitate the tank for 10 seconds out of
every minute. The technique you use for agitation is up to you; it could be
a slow total revolution of the tank or a 180 degree slow agitation. Just be
sure to always do the same movement for every roll of film. At the end of
each agitation period tap the tank on a hard surface once or twice. This
will release any bubbles that have formed on the film surface. Hope this
helps.
- Joel
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1610
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1610
*****
CONTINUING QUESTION 10: Choosing A Scanner
I need advice on choosing a scanner. I want to be able to scan images for an
online portfolio, for burning onto a CD to send out my work, and to
electronically submit photos to online contests. I realize a film scanner is
the best choice, but expense is part of the equation. I need something that
will help me accomplish the above, and to get my images duplicated onto a
CD.
Thanks,
- L.A. Basile
ANSWER 1: I just recently purchased a Canon CanoScan FS 2710. It is great.
The price was reasonable. My son works for a photo company who uses a -----
scanner. He came to visit "mom" to use my new scanner and could not believe
the results.
- Debbie
Canon CanoScan FS 2710 Scanner:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=877
See Sample Photo - "Ducks "
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=2156
Read this Q&A:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/qnaDetail.asp?threadID=1107
Answer this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1107
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
ASK YOUR OWN QUESTION ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ask a question or answer a few from your fellow photographers:
http://www.betterphoto.com/qnaTOC.asp
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
READ PAST ISSUES OF THE SNAPSHOT NEWSLETTER
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Read past issues of SnapShot in the archives on the BetterPhoto Web site:
http://www.betterphoto.com/snapshots.asp
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
SIGN UP FOR FREE PHOTOFLASH AND THE DIGITAL PICTURE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Join the fun and master the arts of traditional or digital photography!
Participate or follow along as we discuss topics & lessons, practice
assignments, and offer feedback on each others' work. Subscribe to our other
two free newsletters - PhotoFlash and the Digital Darkroom - at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/subscribe.asp
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
ADVERTISEMENT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
BigFoto.com
See hundreds of excellent or inspiring images at BigFoto.com. Free to
download for personal use, these photos are sure to please the eyes or
entertain the soul. Check it out:
http://www.bigfoto.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
ADVERTISE YOUR BUSINESS IN SNAPSHOT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Get word of your product or service out to a rapidly growing list of over
8600 serious photographers.
Learn more about advertising in SnapShot by visiting:
http://www.betterphoto.com/g/advertise.asp
If you already know what you want, purchase ad placement at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/g/advertise.asp
Until next week, enjoy shooting!
Thank you,
Jim Miotke
BetterPhoto.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you would rather not receive SnapShot, you may unsubscribe at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/subscribeun.asp
To change your email address, visit:
http://www.betterphoto.com/subscribeCOA.asp
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Copyright 1999-2003 BetterPhoto.com - No part of this
newsletter may be copied or published without prior
permission, but please feel free to forward this to
friends as long as you include the entire newsletter.
SnapShot Archives Index
