SnapShot Archives - 04/10/2001
SNAPSHOT - PHOTO NEWS FROM BETTERPHOTO.COM
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Welcome to SnapShot, the weekly newsletter on the art
of photography from http://www.betterphoto.com
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IN THIS ISSUE
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Thursday, May 10, 2001
* SPOTLIGHT: Tired of Do-It-Yourself Digital Editing?
* BETTERPHOTO: The BetterPhoto.com Camera Calculator
* BETTERPHOTO: Upcoming Travel Photography Class at Rick Steves
* PHOTO LINK: 7 Fun Self-Assignments from Petersen's PHOTOgraphic
* PHOTO LINK: Photoshop Users Group
* PHOTO LINK: Kodak To Acquire Ofoto
* PHOTO TRIVIA QUESTION: Bargain or Rip-Off / What's in a Name?
* THIS WEEK'S TIP: Turn the World On Its Edge
* NEW QUESTION: Canon Lens
* NEW QUESTION: Choosing between Minolta XG7 and SRT 101
* NEW QUESTION: I Need It All!
* NEW QUESTION: Mystery Slave Unit
* NEW QUESTION: Film Developing and Re-printing
* NEW QUESTION: Mac Vs. PC for Digital Image Work?
* NEW QUESTION: Exposure Compensation
* NEW QUESTION: Will Flash Work with Longer Telephoto Lens?
* NEW QUESTION: First Timer: Needs A Lot of Assistance
* NEW QUESTION: Flash Photography
* CONTINUING Q&A: Buying My First Camera
* CONTINUING Q&A: Miniature (1:12 or smaller) Dried Flowers
* CONTINUING Q&A: Grainy Indoor Pictures
* CONTINUING Q&A: Grainy Photo with B&W
* CONTINUING Q&A: Nikkor Portrait Lens
* CONTINUING Q&A: Recommended Film Speed For Concert Photos
* CONTINUING Q&A: Can RAW files be converted to TIFF, etc....
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IN THE SPOTLIGHT - A WORD FROM THIS WEEK'S SPONSOR
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Tired of Do-It-Yourself Digital Editing?
Image Edit & Art is the place to go when you want affordable high-quality
custom editing for your digital images. Our artists are experts in
retouching, restoration, photo-illustration, digital handcoloring and more.
Our services start at $10 per image and all orders are managed through a
convenient Web-based system. See what we can do for you at:
http://www.betterphoto.com/rdrt.asp?rid=image-edit
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WHAT'S NEW AT BETTERPHOTO.COM
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Upcoming Travel Photography Class at Rick Steves
Sunday's slide show with Rick Steves' World Travelers' Slide Club was a big
hit; if you missed it (and live near Edmonds, WA), you might like to attend
the free, one-night class that I will be teaching at the his headquarters on
June 14th. Learn more at:
http://www.ricksteves.com/classes/
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WEB NEWS ON PHOTOGRAPHY
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7 Fun Self-Assignments from Petersen's PHOTOgraphic
In this great article at PhotoAlley.com, you'll find great suggestions on
what to shoot and how. Simply pick the assignment that sounds most
interesting to you and do it. You'll learn a lot, get your creative juices
flowing, and get pointed in the right direction as you head out the door:
http://www.betterphoto.com/rdrt.asp?rid=PA7
*****
Photoshop Users Group
If you use Photoshop and would like to learn how to get the most out of it, check out this site:
http://www.communityzero.com/pug
Check out one of Lou's recent photo uploads at the Gallery:
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=1948&cat=556
*****
Kodak To Acquire Ofoto
Ofoto was mentioned a few times in the SnapShot Q&A last week. Those of you
who enjoy reading the trade and industry news might find this development
interesting:
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0104/01043003kodakacquireofoto.asp
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PHOTO TRIVIA QUESTION OF THE WEEK
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Bargain or Rip-Off
Last week, we asked:
In David Mamet's The Spanish Prisoner, how much does Steve Martin offer
Campbell Scott for his camera?
The correct answer - entered by BetterPhoto member G. Bateman - is:
"Jimmy Dell (Steve Martin) offers to buy Joe's camera for a thousand dollars
with the same matter-of-fact, straightforward delivery one would expect of
someone asking to borrow a pencil."
And Now... This Week's Question - What's in a Name?
Which of the following is not named after a person: a Kodak camera, the
Eastman House, a silhouette, or a Land Camera?
Answer this question online:
http://www.betterphoto.com/forms/trivia.asp
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THIS WEEK'S TIP
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Turn the World On Its Edge
Almost everybody shoots the majority of their pictures in the horizontal
orientation. For many subjects, this is just fine. To add a little variety
to your photo collection, though, make a deliberate effort to shoot in the
vertical mode. Spend the next week, for instance, just shooting things in
this 'portrait' orientation. If you have been leaning too heavily on the
standard horizontal orientation, you will find that it opens up a whole new
world. You might also discover that:
* Editors often like portraits (for magazine covers, for example)
* Vertical shots often create a more energetic, dynamic expression
* Many subjects just fit better and thus help eliminate unwanted
distractions
Give it a try. Turn your camera on end and compare the results.
Top Ten Tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/tips.asp
More tips:
http://www.betterphoto.com/exploring/allTips.asp
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NEW PHOTOGRAPHY QUESTIONS
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Q. Canon Lens
I am buying a Cannon Rebel XS SLR. I believe this is an EOS series. It
already has a 35-80mm lens (I think) on it. (It's on its way here) My
question is: What type of lens will fit this camera. There are so many Canon
lens on eBay, that I'm not sure which one I can buy for this camera. Does a
Canon FD, EOS... or well, there's all kinds of lens on eBay and I wanted to
check them out. Which ones will fit my new camera?
Thank you,
- Vicki
A. The Rebel XS is one of Canon's EOS autofocus cameras. All EOS cameras use
the Canon EF lens mount which has 100% electrical connections. They cannot
use any other lens mount. Look for Canon EF lenses, or Sigma, Tamron,
Tokina,... lenses made for the EOS or EF mount.
Canon FD mount lenses are manual focus only and have a mechanical link to
the camera. FD mount lenses can only be used with Canon's older lines of
manual focus cameras: F series (Ftb, F-1,...), A series (A-1, AE-1, AE-1
Program,...), and T series (T70, T90,...).
- Jon
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1810
*****
Q. Choosing between Minolta XG7 and SRT 101
What's the better choice? Minolta XG7 or Minolta SRT 101? This is for good
quality photography, and I want all the manual features. These two camera
are used and are only 10.00 difference in price (one is 90.00 and the other
100.00) Any suggestions?
- Roxy
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1809
*****
Q. I Need It All!
I have just recently decided to ditch my handy 35 mm camera and attempt to
learn the art of true photography. I purchased a second hand Canon AE-1 and
a Focal DA-2000 lens. I also bought Canon long lens. My main subjects are my
three children and I have lucked up sometimes getting great shots of them
but more often than not they are bad. I am truly a novice and would like the
"layman's" definitions of aperture, shutter speed, WHATEVER it is I need to
know to get great shots of wiggly kids. Your Web site has helped me
tremendously in getting started but I guess I need the very basic
understanding of what I am trying to do and what these things are for
(Remedial Photography 001?) Your response is so greatly appreciated.
- cbstigall
A. Not that I don't want to help. I wouldn't come to this site if I didn't.
But you are asking for a lot to have someone explain all the basics of
photography to you on this forum. I would suggest going out and buying a
good basic photography book. There are tons of them on the market. It would
be simpler to do that and then come here for help with concepts you struggle
with than to look for everything here in one answer. Of course that's just
my opinion. Someone else may have a Reader's Digest version they can give
you.
- Jeff
[See my recommended starter books listed about 6 questions down]
A. Jeff's right, my initial response came to a novel size before I gave up
and decided not to post it. The only other piece of advice is to buy cheap
film and just shoot shoot shoot. Let the camera's computer do all the work
while you get the artistic side of things down.
Once that happens, get some decent film, and start playing around with some
of the settings. Start asking specific questions - "it looks washed out,
why". "The photo is blurry, what did I do wrong"? "I've seen photos in
magazines where they do X, how do they do it".
Anyway, good luck with your shooting and tell us how you go.
Cheers,
- Ken
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1808
*****
Q. Mystery Slave Unit
Can anyone tell me about the slave unit pictured at the link below? Battery
size, etc.
- Wayne
See Sample Photo - "slave unit"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=1959
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1807
*****
Q. Film Developing and Re-printing
I am a black and white photography amateur/beginner who has never taken a
class in the traditional sense. While I have learned a lot from this site
and from other web sites in general, I am still left in the dark when it
comes to printing and developing.
The problem is that I have my images sent to the local Longs where they send
them to outside developers and I don't always like the quality of the print.
I have tried a professional black and white developer who did an excellent
job (they were archival quality) but I'm not experienced enough for my
images to warrant that kind of money since they aren't always good ones.
Next spring I plan to enroll in the Academy of Art college in San Francisco
and I will have the opportunity to take a class then, but in the meantime I
still want to practice the art. I would like to know if after I've had my
film developed I can go back at a later time, take the negatives and do a
better job myself or if once it has been processed then what's done is done?
- Kimberley
A. In b&w photography much of what you can do is done in the printing of the
film. Not to say that development isn't important. But a well exposed
negative developed by a consistent lab should be fully capable of delivering
a very nice print. In short, you should have no problem going back to these
negs at a later date and messing around with them in the darkroom. Just make
sure you store them correctly. Sleeve them and take every precaution to
avoid scratches.
- Jeff
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1805
*****
Q. Mac Vs. PC for Digital Image Work?
What are the issues re buying a Mac vs. PC for digital work, i.e., scanning
images, using Photoshop to manipulate images, storage and printing images?
Mac used to be king, I understand. Is this still true? What if I also want
to run office software such as Excel, Word, PowerPoint, and Access?
- guthrie
A. I am far from an expert on this but as I understand it Mac's are still
the preferred platform for graphic artists. But the differences between them
and PC's are negligible and I suspect you could hardly tell the difference.
I think it's probably more important to stick with what you are used to. I
doubt enough would be gained buying a Mac if you are used to using PC's to
make the transition worthwhile.
- Jeff
A. This is a pretty good topic to start flame wars on. :) I'll try to be
objective.
Firstly, keep in mind that if you're choosing a machine with only one
application in mind, you'll suffer when using other Apps with that machine.
Realistically, will you be playing games, surfing the internet, or DTP on
this machine?
With that in mind, remember that although the Mac platform has a very good
RISC processor that handles graphics rendering very fast, the advantage in
terms of photo finishing is not significant. In fact, if you are willing to
spend up big, a well designed PC system will far outrun any Mac. (I'm
talking dual procs with RAIDed HDs + copious amounts of RAM) We call this
method in Australia "American firepower". If you can't do the job with
finesse, do it with brute force.
Also, as a generalization, all software is released first on PC, and if
there is enough demand, later on Mac. Remember this when you go over the
question "What else am I going to be doing on this machine?"
Finally, if you are not a computer expert yourself, better off getting a
machine on the platform that help is most easily available - usually the PC.
Bottom line - Macs are certainly value for money if graphics editing is all
you are going to do, but in reality, PCs are a much better "all-round"
machine.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
- Ken
A. Hi guys,
I'll pipe in my quick observations:
I grew up on Macs and love them for their ease and overall friendliness. I
now have a couple of both (Macs and NT/Win 2000). I use one Mac just for
scanning - not because it is better with graphics but rather "because it's
there." I have noticed when using various applications such as a Web
browser, my Macs are twice as slow (same DSL connection, similar RAM).
I hate to admit it (and many of my friends will crucify me for this) but I
must say that my life has become much simpler, less frustrating, and more
efficient since I moved the bulk of my work to my NT machines.
Hope this helps.
- BetterPhoto.com
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1804
*****
Q. Exposure Compensation
My camera has a top shutter speed of 1/250th. If I use fast film, in
daylight, at a wide aperture, the shutter speed is likely to be exceeded.
Now, I can use a neutral density filter to reduce the amount of light
reaching the film, but the camera doesn't meter through the lens. So, I
assume I have to make exposure compensations via the compensation dial
according to the filter rating. So far no problem - here is the real
question. Do I have to tell my developer to do anything special with the
film, given that some of it may have been exposed at say -2 stops and some
without compensation?
Yours bewildered,
- Roy
A. For starters I am puzzled as to why you would use a high speed film in a
camera with a top shutter speed of 1/250. Why not just use slower film and
not worry about it? What kind of camera is this anyway?
Oh well, as to your questions - yes, you are correct you just make an
exposure compensation. Do you need to tell your developer? No. You've
already made the adjustment in camera. The only time you have to tell the
lab is if you don't make the adjustment in camera and therefore they have to
adjust the development.
- Jeff
A. Jeff, Thank you for your answer - it has sorted things out for me. As to
the make of camera, it is a Konica Hexar (original type not latest
rangefinder). As to why I might be using a 'fast' film - well, the answer is
clear to anyone who lives in England. The weather here can change from
bright sunshine to absolute misery in about an hour or so! So, its easy to
be caught out with the 'wrong' film in the camera. But hey ho, that's life!
Thanks again,
- Roy
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1803
*****
Q. Will Flash Work with Longer Telephoto Lens?
I use a Canon EOS 30 and an EX380 flash that synchronizes to 1/125. This is
okay for my 28-105mm lens. What happens if I want to use my 300mm lens? Does
this mean that all the pictures will be blurred if the camera is hand held
or the subject moves? Thanks
- apo
A. Assuming the ambient light isn't too strong, the duration of the flash is
enough to freeze any motion. When you use flash, the flash duration in
essence becomes your shutter speed. The only time your sync speed becomes a
factor is when there is enough ambient light to make an exposure on your
film. You've probably seen pictures where there is a sharp image from the
flash with a blurry ghosted image behind or in front of it from the strong
ambient light and slower sync speed. Remember when using the 300mm, though,
not to exceed the range of your flash.
- Jeff
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1802
*****
Q. First Timer: Needs A Lot of Assistance
OK, let me start by thanking anyone that is brave enough to tackle this
extremely open-ended question. I'm 14 and the only kind of picture I have
ever "created" is the standard Disney Land experience when some foreigner
that doesn't speech a word of English hands me a disposable camera. This
morning I decided to get into photograph. So I figured I would go straight
to the net in hopes of guidance. I'm really involved in art. Needless to say
that I understand composition, framing, color, and contrast (in an
artistic/non-photographic sense). I'm mostly interested in filming people,
particularly in black and white, and I think I want to work with a
"traditional" type of camera. In the picture quality I would like a
tremendously sharp picture, that shows fine details and texture. I read
though all the questions and answers. For the most part all the technical
terms went right over my head. If you could PLEASE explain to me in lame
man's terms what I need to consider in buy equipment and some questions I
could ask retailers, I would be extremely grateful. THANKS!!!!!
- Lace
A. I would strongly consider buying a used camera with manual capabilities.
When you are starting out you need to keep things as simple and basic as
possible. Hmm, come to think of it now that I've been doing it for 20+ years
and I do it for a living I still like to keep things basic and simple. If
sharpness is your biggest concern then look for a camera with a 50mm lens.
Not only is that the most basic of setups but the standard 50mm lens is
probably the sharpest you will find. Don't spend a lot of money on
equipment.
Use your money for film and developing (and books on technique) and shoot a
lot of film. That's the best way to learn. And if you are really serious,
take notes when you are out shooting so that when you get your pictures back
and they look funny you know what you did and can figure out where you went
wrong.
Read all you can about photography and look at pictures. Once you've read
the basic books on photography go look at as many pictures as you can and
ask yourself why this picture works and that one doesn't. Look at pictures
that follow the rules and look at the ones that don't and ask yourself why
they don't. Basically I am saying that you should learn all the rules and
then learn how, when, and why to break them.
- Jeff
Jim's Take on Great Starter Books:
"Learning to See Creatively" by Bryan Peterson:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=539
"Focus on Nature" by John Shaw (if you are into the nature thing):
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=538
"Photography for Dummies" (if you are using a point and shoot):
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=621
"Basic Techniques of Photography" (if you want to get into printing):
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=619
"How to Take Great Photographs With Any Camera" by Jerry Hughes:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=868
A. I "second" Jeff's suggestions.
Photography is both an "art" and a "science." A person serious about
photography studies both. If you have knowledge about "formal elements" and
composing them from studying other graphic arts, then you have learned some
of the "art." The "science" part is about light and optics, and how film
records light. The photographer uses knowledge about the "science" to create
the desired image in performing the "art."
Three basic principles to remember as you study details about photography:
1. Photography is all about light. It's the only thing film records: light
traveling from the subject material you are photographing to the film.
2. Ask yourself first what it is you are trying to express with a
photograph, and who you are communicating that expression to (the intended
viewers). If you do this, it will help greatly in deciding many things about
the image you make, and how to make it.
3. Instead of "taking" photographs, think of "making" photographs. Visualize
in your mind what you want to "make" first by using the second principle,
then set about doing it.
- John
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1801
*****
Q. Flash Photography
I recently used a Stofen diffuser on my flash unit and took photos indoors
(with daylight film) under fluorescent light. When I got the prints back, I
was surprised to see a "green" cast to them. I thought the flash would over-
ride the fluorescent and eliminate the green cast. I also thought the
diffuser would soften the flash when I took close-up shots. What did I do
wrong?
- foutch
A. Hi there,
1) If you are getting prints back, the green cast could be caused by the
processing lab. The whole light balance issue is most important with
shooting slides.
2) When film is "daylight" balanced, that means it is meant to be shot in
white daylight. It doesn't mean it corrects light to daylight color. If you
want a correcting (slide) film, look for something
3) Flash usually does override this problem but only where it hits your
subject. Shadows, for example, will still look greenish. Perhaps using the
Sto-fen diffuser limited the amount of flash and made the scene take on more
of the green colored light.
However, I don't think this is your problem. Again, if you are getting
prints, your photo lab is doing a poor job of color balancing. Go back and
ask for a do-over.
If you are using slides, try Fuji Reala. For shooting slides under
fluorescent light without a flash, use an FL-D filter.
- BetterPhoto.com
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1790
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CONTINUING PHOTOGRAPHY Q&A
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Q. Buying My First Camera
I am in the process of buying my first camera. I am looking for suggestions
on what type of camera I should buy, what features I should be looking for,
etc.
- Bridget
A. Bridget, it all depends on what your goals are. Are you just interested
in snap shots to record moments? Do you really want to learn the nuts and
bolts of photography? Do you want instant gratification?
If you want snap shots get a point and shoot or a digital. If you really
want to learn get a decent SLR that you can use manually. If you are
impatient and want instant gratification get a digital. Narrow it down and
maybe someone can send you in a direction.
- Jeff
A. I am interested in learning the nuts and bolts of photography and I am
definitely a beginner (as you can tell, since I didn't phrase my question
correctly :). I plan on eventually taking a photography class, but I want to
spend some time this summer learning what I can on my own. So I would be
interested in suggestions on which manual SLR would be good to learn and
experiment with. Thanks for your help.
- Bridget
A. I applaud the fact you want to learn. I honestly don't keep up on the
modern cameras as much as other's here may. I have heard good things about
the Canon Rebel 2000. I assume is has manual capabilities but I don't know
for sure. [Editor: Yes. It does] If you don't feel compelled to buy a new
camera you can get great used ones. Great old cameras for learning to look
for are the Canon AE1 and the Pentax K1000 to name a couple. Those are
cameras which are commonly used by students. A basic 50mm lens is going to
be your best bet. I'm sure others here will have some suggestions as well.
- Jeff
Canon Rebel SLR Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=228
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1791
*****
Q. Miniature (1:12 or smaller) Dried Flowers
I'm trying to take pictures of miniature (1:12 or smaller) dried flower
arrangements and don't understand the lighting rules, some pictures come out
looking like they're in yellow light sort of - I'm shooting them on a light
blue cloth with 4 small (20 watts each) halogen lights over the piece, some
look the right color and some of the pictures look all yellowish. I truly
need help please? Any help would be most appreciated! Thank you.
- Clysta
See Sample Photo - "test basket yellow.jpg"
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGallDetail.asp?photoID=1872
A. Clysta,
You didn't state what film you were using, but I'd bet dollars to donuts
it's "daylight" balanced. The "halogen" lights are "tungsten." While the
light they give off may look white, it's not. Our brains do a marvelous job
of color correcting artificial lighting to make it look "whiter" than it
really is. Film doesn't. Lamps with tungsten filaments give off much more
red/yellow and much less blue than daylight from the sun contains.
I would also guess you're using color negative film and looking at the
prints from it. If so, the print processor is undoubtedly able to do some
color correction with some of the negatives but not all of them. If it's a
consumer lab with an automated print machine you can end up "all over the
map" with the color correction.
Suggestion:
Use some "tungsten" balanced film. They are made for shooting under tungsten
studio lights and the halogens you are using are very close to their color
balance. These will be professional films and you will have to buy them at a
camera store that carries pro films. The numbers are the film speeds.
For color negative (prints):
Kodak Portra 100T
Fuji Fujicolor NPL 160
For transparency (slides):
Kodak EPY-64
Kodak EPT-160
Kodak EPJ-320
Fuji Fujichrome 64T Type II
You might try one of the negative films first and do the shoot just as you
did before. You will probably find a huge difference in the result.
Yes, there is a way to balance daylight to tungsten lighting using a filter.
However, it is a very dark blue, creates a very dark viewfinder, it's hard
to compose and focus with it, and it exacts a huge cost in loss of light.
This effectively makes the required exposures as if you are using a very
slow film. Use tungsten balanced film if at all possible!
- John
A. Oops... left out one more thing...
The color negative films I listed are C-41 process, just like daylight color
negative films. This means the film can be developed and printed the same as
any daylight color negative film.
The transparency (slide) films are E-6 process and developing them is the
same as for any daylight Ektachrome or Fujichrome.
- John
A. Thanks John! I guess you can probably tell that I'm so new at this that I
didn't even think to tell you what I was using and for that I apologize! I'm
using the Digital HP PhotoSmart hp 315 camera and I'm using just the way it
came out of the box, no extra cards or anything else. I'm trying to take the
pictures and then load them on my computer (which I'm new also, they both
came together) and then upload the pictures to eBay. Does that help? Thank
you again.
- Clysta
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1787
*****
Q. Grainy Indoor Pictures
I wish I would have found your site before I invested in my first SLR
camera. I have a nice point and shoot camera that takes really nice pictures
but I have always wanted a better camera. I am a mother of four and the
appointed extended family photographer. I just bought the Canon EOS IX Lite.
The lens is 22-55mm. I think that is the problem. I have been really
disappointed with my first rolls of film. The close-ups are grainy... I love
the close-ups of my babies. With my indoor pictures, though, the color was
not bright at all. Gray... Do I need another flash? Thank you so much for
your time. I hope you can give just a little info so I can enjoy my new
camera.
- Kristin
A. Kristin, not all hope is lost yet. Graininess usually comes from either
using a cheap film, or the wrong type, or not exposing the film properly.
Try buying some well known brands, like Kodak 100 Gold and Fuji 100
Superia - I especially like Fuji (as the regulars here know) because of it's
fine grain and sometimes exaggerated colour saturation.
Also, if the photos are dark, grainy and colourless, usually that means that
you've underexposed. The flash on your camera is probably good to no more
than about 2 metres on ISO 100 film.
Also, you might see a posting from me a few weeks ago - the D&P lab you take
it to makes a *lot* of difference.
Have another go at it, but make sure you get a slower film and use natural
lighting. You might be pleasantly surprised.
- Ken
Kodak 100 Gold Film:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=356
Fuji 100 Superia Film:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=300
A. I don't ordinarily say this but I would not suggest a slower film as Ken
did. From your description of your pictures it sounds like the shots were
underexposed. Higher speed films were made for inexperienced photographers.
You will probably still get grainier shots than you would from slower film
but you will get enough exposure to produce prints with contrast and color.
I'm not familiar with the camera you have so I cannot offer any specific
advice for it.
- Jeff
Try the excellent Fuji 400 Superia Film:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=303
A. If you found that your image has a lot of gray tone then try over expose
your picture by about half a stop. I guess your meter reading is a bit out.
- Tim
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1782
*****
Q. Grainy Photo with B&W
What is the reason for grainy B&W photos? Is it not enough light? It was a
photo with people in a cotton field. Cotton looked good; people grainy.
- Mart
A. Yes on negative film underexposed shots will appear grainy. Also higher
speed films will have more grain. Without knowing which film and what
lighting circumstances you were shooting under I can't be more specific.
- Jeff
A. So will poor or improper developing; too much enlargement, old film, and
a host of other situation/conditions/procedures.
But again-please provide specifics. Better yet, let us see the image, using
the Image Upload option.
- John
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1774
*****
Q. Nikkor Portrait Lens
I have a Nikon N80 and I want to buy the best Nikkor lens for portraits. I
don't know if I should get a fixed lens or a zoom. Please help - any
information will be appreciated. I want the lens that will produce the
sharpest, clearest photos possible.
thanks
- beth
A. For portraits you generally want to put a soft filter on anyway, so you
might not need a really sharp lens. I would recommend you use a telephoto
lens so that it can throw all the background out of focus. A good Nikon
telephoto zoom lens would be the 70-300mm 4-5.6, but if you want a faster
lens, try 50mm 1.4.
- Tim
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1772
*****
Q. Recommended Film Speed For Concert Photos
I have been shooting concerts with Kodak Max 400 film, and some turn out ok
and others are very grainy... maybe slightly under exposed they look real
light on the prints. I have a Canon Rebel 2000 and keep it set on automatic
mode all the time because I am not sure of myself yet. I have noticed that
sometimes my pictures turn out better with out a flash and sometimes they
don't. Any suggestions on film speed and any help on figuring out the rhyme
and reason to what I am doing would be greatly appreciated.
- Jocey
Canon Rebel SLR Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=228
A. Well, you've picked a tough subject to shoot if you are unsure of
yourself. Concert photography is not easy. My preference is for concert
shots without flash. I love the dramatic lighting. The toughest part of
concert photography is the exposure. As you've discovered it's pretty hit
and miss to let the camera decide your exposure. There is just too much
contrast. I would suggest you go to the bookstore and find a book on
exposure (they're out there) and become "sure" of yourself. Once you
understand what you're doing you can make the decisions regarding exposure
and you will enjoy the experience much more.
- Jeff
A. Try using the Fuji Press 800 set it at 640 and use a very high speed
lens, say, 1.4F
- Tim
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1767
*****
Q. Can RAW files be converted to TIFF, etc....
I am currently interested in upgrading to another camera such as the Olympus
E10 or Canon D30. I noticed that they utilize RAW files and require their
own proprietary software to convert them. My question is, once you processed
the photos thru such software, can these easily be converted to other
formats such as JPEG, TIFF, etc. I want the quality and flexibility of a RAW
file, but I also want to be able to store the photo in other formats. If so,
can you recommend any particular software for these conversions. Thank You
- Darel
Olympus E10 SLR Digital Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=965
Canon D30 SLR Digital Camera:
http://www.betterphoto.com/product/productDetail.asp?productID=966
A. Photo D will convert to about anything you want. I use 2.0 and go to
"file" and under "file" go to "send to"
- Billy B.
A. For working with RAW data, SilverFast HDR is the solution for working
with raw data. SilverFast HDR has all features of the award winning
SilverFast Ai that allows real-time control of all that makes an images
truly brilliant. SilverFast HDR works in 16 bit with selective color
correction, LAB-USM, gray-axis control, etc.
- khz
A. One other point: the Canon D30 does not require that you save in RAW
format. You can save JPEGs, too. I believe the Olympus works the same way.
Whichever one you go with, it is relatively easy to convert from one format
to another.
- BetterPhoto.com
Respond to this question:
http://www.betterphoto.com/QnAredirect.asp?threadID=1680
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