All photos and text © Tony Sweet, all rights reserved worldwide. No form of reproduction or usage - including copying, altering, or saving of digital image and text files - is permitted without the express written permission of Tony Sweet and BetterPhoto.com.
Lesson #1: Getting the Ball Rolling!
| If you have a Nikon D2X or D2Xs Camera, click here for your Lesson 1. |
 multi_palms © Tony Sweet All rights reserved |
The Nikon D200 is the latest of Nikon's professional DSLR cameras. As many photographers are interested in becoming stock photographers, it's important to have a camera that has acceptable file size and image quality. All major stock agencies accept files from the Nikon D200.
As you are probably the owner of a D200, you can attest to its ease of operation, large 2.5" viewing screen, and the impressive multiple exposure and layer capabilities. There are many menu options, however, that can be a bit daunting and their usefulness can be questionable or very specific. Actually, many of the D200 menu items are not utilized by professional photographers. Professionals tend to minimize image adjustments in-camera, such as color, sharpening, and contrast. These are best handled in image editing software, such as Adobe Photoshop. But, there are a number of settings that greatly aid and facilitate image capture. Some of these settings are easily found, but some are nestled in sub-menus. We will discuss these settings, their functions, and how to find and set them.
What I'll do during this class is to describe the basic controls and functions to get you going feeling comfortable using the D200. I'll also note which settings I personally use and why. During the course, you can feel free to send specific questions that may not have been covered or not covered in depth enough for your needs.
| NOTE: This course is not meant to replace the owner's manual. It's meant to get you going using the camera in an effective, user friendly, easy-to-understand format. There is a lot of useful information in the manual. It's just tough to wade through at times. |
GOOD PRACTICE: Always have your manual with your camera. Mine is always with me. These are complicated machines. One can't commit all of the information to memory.
This is a great camera and after we get you past the "what is all this stuff…" phase, you'll have a ball!!
Basic Info
The battery on the D200 can last for up to 1800 exposures. However, this can be greatly diminished by constant and prolonged use of the menus. I can actually attest to this personally! Tip: Have at least one extra battery.
Flash Cards or Memory Cards: These cards are where all of your work gets recorded. These small hard drives are inserted into the camera. With the file size of the D200, 2gig and 4gig are recommended. You don't want to have all your work on one large flash card, in case of card failure. It's best to spread your images around between several smaller flash cards. Nikon recommends Sandisk and Lexar cards. I have a flash card case holding four cards, 3 2-gig cards and 1 4-gig card.
| NOTE: Whenever using a flash card for the first time, it's a good practice to format the card in your camera, NOT from your flash card reader going to your computer. Go into the camera Set-Up menu, select the "Format" command, select "Yes," then hit the "ENTER" button. That's it! Now you're ready to start making great images! |
The Sensor: One of the major issues when working with a digital camera that uses interchangeable lenses, is that the photographer wants to change lenses! Sensors are dust magnets. Where does the dust come from? Well, particles can be picked up from the atmosphere, from tiny metal shavings from twisting the lens onto the mount, and from lint on your camera body cap(!), to name a few. The most effective way to avoid dust on your sensor it to dedicate a lens to the camera and never change it. That is about 100% effective, but in the real world, things are a bit different. Any serious photographer will want to use different lenses, which necessitates removing one lens and replacing it with another, momentarily leaving the mirror and sensor open to the elements.
The best way to change lenses is to practice changing lenses quickly with the camera turned downwards and away from the body. That way, when you're in the field, the changing process is in place and you'll be able to minimize (not eliminate) dust on your sensor.
IMPORTANT: Always turn the camera off when changing lenses as the fully charged (camera on) sensor will attract more particles than when turned off.
To remove dust from the sensor, the easiest way it to use an air bulb (Giotto Rocket) to blow off dust, NOT canned air, as that will harm the sensor. If the dust is "stuck" and cannot be removed from the sensor with the air bulb, there are a couple of options that I recommend: visibledust.com and Eclipse fluid and Sensor swabs.
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D200 Gallery
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Do This First
Set your diopter to make sure that the display is in clear focus.
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1.Remove the lens cap and turn the camera on.
2.The diopter adjustment dial is to the upper right of the eye-piece. Rotate the diopter adjustment control until the focus brackets are displayed in sharp focus.
Basic Functions:
 D200: Metering Systems © Tony Sweet All rights reserved |
Metering systems - As with all higher end cameras, there is the option to set your metering area to spot, center weighted, and matrix. I use all three depending on the situation. I use all three metering systems depending on the situation, and this is subjective depending on the photographer, but basically, I'll use matrix metering in what I judge to be an overall average tonality scene (nothing very bright or very dark). I prefer to use spot metering most of the time as it is the most accurate. For example, in a scene with many bright and darker areas, I can spot meter on an average tonality scene to get proper exposure. I rarely use center weighted, but it is an essential metering system with manual lenses (no computer chip). A couple of examples are Lenbabies and some tilt-shift lenses.
The dial is located to the right of the eye-piece, on the AE-L/AF-L button.
 D200: Metering Areas © Tony Sweet All rights reserved |
AF area mode - This is located on the back of the camera below the command multi-selector. This can be a bit confusing and its use totally depends on your shooting style (read in the manual, pg.54). Every working professional I know has the spot meter mode selected. Unless you're photographing in highly technical situations with moving subjects, the Single Area AF mode will be fine. This is not to be confused with spot metering system mentioned above.
For greatest flexibility, given my subject matter and shooting style, I keep the setting on Single-area AF.
ISO setting - this is found in two places. The easiest place to reach this setting is on the top left dial on the camera. By depressing the ISO button and turning the rear command dial (located by your right thumb as you're holding the camera), the ISO number in the control panel (on top right of camera) will change as you turn the dial. The ISO Sensitivity setting also appears in the Shooting Menu. Available ISO's are from ISO100 to ISO3200.
I shoot at ISO100 for greatest image quality. Then I move to ISO200 and ISO400 in darker situations. These ISOs retain image quality, and there is no noise. Digital noise occurs in dark areas (shadows), underexposures, and ISOs above ISO400. I will shoot at ISO 800 to 3200 when needed, but then may have to perform noise reduction techniques.
IMPORTANT: After scrolling past ISO1600, you will see a series of "H" designations (H0.3, H0.7, H1.0). They are higher ISOs.
H0.3 = ISO2200; H0.7 = ISO2600; H1.0 = ISO3200
White balance - This will be discussed at length and illustrated in lesson #2.
 Top Left Dial © Tony Sweet All rights reserved |
The various file formats available on the D200 are: Raw, Fine JPEG, Normal JPEG, and Basic JPEG. The D200 can also produce 2 formats at the same time. This is a good feature for quick viewing and editing because JPEGs are rendered much faster than Raw. The following combinations are available: Raw + Fine JPEG, Raw + Normal JPEG, and Raw + Basic JPEG.
Now, which do we choose and why?
I always shoot in Raw and Basic JPEG.
Raw captures the largest file possible from the camera, which will produce the highest quality prints. Stock agencies only accept tiffs from Raw capture. It's easy to edit and offers total flexibility in image processing. For example, if you set the wrong white balance and get a horrible color-cast, you can set the image back to the appropriate white balance with no image degradation. This is why all pros shoot in Raw file format. Raw files are infinitely editable with no loss of quality or image degradation. The white balance can be changed in the Raw process stage. Think of Jpegs like a transparency. What you get is the end of the process. Editing and resaving JPEGs can create noticeable image degradation.
JPEG is the preferred format of many wedding photographers. As JPEG is a much smaller format, many more can fit on a flash card. JPEGs write faster. The dRawback is that image processing is minimal without causing image degradation.
NOTE: Also, notice on the top left dial, under the WB, QUAL, ISO buttons are another set of letters. Press the very small button at the left of the dial on the camera body to be able to turn this dial.
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Custom Functions:
This is where everyone goes a little nuts! What do all of these items mean and which ones do we select and how do we even know what they mean and how they affect the final image?
Well, rest easy! I'll get you started by listing the menu settings that I use and why. After getting a good handle on that, you can feel free to read the manual descriptions and if anything looks like it may be of use to you, try it.
I'll leave out the menu items set from the factory and just mention the ones that I've adjusted. You'll notice that an asterisk appears next to any setting that has been changed from the factory default.
In the Playback Menu
 Playback Menu © Tony Sweet All rights reserved |
Delete - Keep at the default of only deleting one image at a time Playback Folder - Keep at default
Slide Show - You can actually play back your images in a slide show on your LCD. Nice idea. Killer on the batteries.
Hide Image - Hides any image you want to be kept from being viewed.
Print Set - I leave it alone. All print work is better done in software.
Display Mode - Have a look at this one. When you scroll up and down while an image is be displayed, the checked selections become available.
Image Review - When this is turned on, the image pops up on the screen right after shooting. It takes up valuable time in the field and takes a deadly toll on batteries. I have it checked "off."
After Delete - I leave it on the default: Show Next
Rotate Tall - Turn to "off." That way the entire vertical image will fill the LCD, but you have to turn the camera. The full size is good. If turned "on," the camera remains in horizontal format and a vertical images is shown in vertical format on a horizontal LCD. The vertical is much smaller this way.
In the Shooting Menu
 D200: Shooting Menu © Tony Sweet All rights reserved |
Color Space - Your options are sRGB and AdobeRGB. The AdobeRGB setting expresses a wider gamut of color and is the preferred choice for images that will be extensively processed or retouched. My setting is AdobeRGB.
Image Quality - As stated earlier, I always shoot in Raw for maximum flexibility and best image quality.
Image Size - I always set this to the maximum, "LARGE."
Raw Compression - set to "OFF."
Long Exposure NR - Set to "ON" to cut down on noise created by using long exposures.
In the Custom Setting Menu
 Nikon D200: Custom Menu © Tony Sweet All rights reserved |
- b2, b3, and b4 menu items should all be set to 1/3 for the most exposure control.
d Shooting/Display
- (d1) Beep - turning this on or off is up to you. I personally find the beep to be a little distracting, so I set it to "Off."
(d2) Grid Display - The default is "Off." I find the grid very helpful in composition and in helping to level my horizon lines. I set it to "ON."
(d6) File Number Sequence - If this is kept at the default setting, which resets the image numbering to 0001 every time a new card is inserted, it will cause a numbering issue on your computer. There may be several of the same number if images are left on your hard drive from previous cards. I prefer unique numbers for all of my images, so I set this to "ON."
(e) Bracketing/Flash
- (e1) Flash Sync Speed - Set to 1/250s (Auto FP) if you use a Nikon flash unit in the Nikon
Creative Lighting System. Set to 1/250s if you are using a non-Nikon flash unit.
(e2) Slowest Speed when using flash - I set mine to 1/15 sec as I like doing rear curtain synch flash on moving subjects at slow shutter speeds. This setting is up for grabs depending on your personal shooting style using flash. A safe bet with this setting is to leave it as is until you find that you have a need to change it.
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(f) Controls
(f1) Center Button
- Playback Mode
Histogram on/off - This is a quick way to see the histogram then press it again to put it away.
(f4) FUNC. Button
Spot Metering - The Function button is on the front of the camera to the bottom right of the lens. If you hand hold the camera, your ring finger should naturally fall on it. You can assign various functions to this button. I shoot in Matrix most of the time, but occasionally need a quick spot meter. I've assigned my Function Button to switch to spot metering when I depress it. There are many options available for you to choose from based on your shooting style.
Very Important
(f7) No Memory Card?
- The default is set to "LOCK," which is a good thing. What this means is that the camera will not fire when no memory card is in the camera. Otherwise, you stand the risk of shooting all day and viewing your great images on the camera viewing screen and having nothing to show for it at the end of the day.
I leave this setting on "LOCK."
Basic Maintenance
Don't forget that these cameras are "field computers" and I treat mine accordingly. Although reading through the manual reads like these are built like tanks and can withstand extreme temperatures, I like to rely on common sense. After all, there are electronics involved. If it's too hot for me, it's probably too hot for the camera. If I'm getting too wet to work in the field, it's probably not the best situation for the camera. Just common sense stuff like that.
Avoid tossing the camera into your camera bag. A film camera like the F5 and F6 can almost be run over by a car and still work. A high-end professional camera like the D200 is a bit more fragile.
Clean sand and water (dew, light rain, mist) off of your camera as soon as possible. Canned air used on the outside of the camera only, can blow off sand and dust particles. Also, I keep an old toothbrush in my bag for getting sand out of tight spots. I use a soft chamois cloth and canned air can remove moisture.
Foreign particles will appear on the CCD and will appear as specks on your image, requiring cloning to remove them. How to avoid this situation? Use only one lens and never take it off of the camera! For most photographers, this is unacceptable, so we need good lens changing technique. Just to review, when changing lenses, hold the camera away from your body, face down, and then change lenses as quickly as possible. In the event of blowing sand, hold the camera opening as close to the body as possible to shield the camera from the wind. This may pick up some dust from your clothing, but is preferable to having a blast of sand enter your open camera.
One quick way to check for particles is to shoot at a white or clear blue sky. It's also a good idea to zoom in on the screen and scroll across and down. You will see particles on the camera monitor, and therefore on your images.
| Stay tuned for next week's lesson on White Balance. |
Your Assignment: Camera Settings
- Go through the D200 menu and make the settings suggested here, which should work for everyone as a jumping off point. Pull up a picture on the camera monitor and press the right and left arrows on the Multi-selector to cycle through your images. Then on a single image press the up and down arrows on the Multi-selector to cycle through image information (meta-data), which should include the histogram.
- Shoot an indoor scene of your choosing at ISO100, ISO400, ISO800, and ISO3200. It's easiest to just set the camera to P (program) mode and only change the ISO for each exposure. Don't use a tripod. Take note of the change of image quality and contrast at higher ISOs.
Submit a total of 4 images to the Campus Square by Wednesday, July 08, 2009.
And don't forget, I would like to see three to six of your favorite previously created images uploaded to your Portfolio in addition to this first assignment. I won't be critiquing these Porfolio images but I would still like to see some of your previous work. Upload both your Portfolio and assignment images following the instructions (which you should have already received in a separate email).
If you have any questions, send me an email or post a question on the online Q&A forums.
I know that you'll be studying hard, but don't forget to have fun!!!
Tony
All photos and text © Tony Sweet, all rights reserved worldwide. No form of reproduction or usage - including copying, altering, or saving of digital image and text files - is permitted without the express written permission of Tony Sweet and BetterPhoto.com.