"White" Problems

© Michelle Campbell

"White" Problems

Uploaded: January 25, 2002

Description

I am having issues getting white "WHITE" in my action snow shots. Major issues. Can anyone give me grade school assistance? I can't believe I can't get it! Very frustrating! All of my critter shots are action and unplanned and unposed.

Comments

Raymond w. Earley January 25, 2002

In a photo thats in the shade that may either be clouds or some other type of shade try a 81A filter to warm the tones. also for snow try takeing the exposure of the snow and then opening up another stop or two to get it white. again in the shadow use a warming filter If you find that the rest of the print is getting washed out to get the snow white use a neutral density and allways bracket youyr shots a few stops in both directions. #3143

Michelle Campbell January 25, 2002

I can't seem to get the bracketing down or the opening up or closing down. I'm so frustrated! #4966

Glenn Theal January 26, 2002

It sounds to me as though you should take a photography course, Michelle. This will greatly help you improve your photos as well as your personal enjoyment.

As for bracketing, opening up, and stopping down, this really isn't very difficult. However, it does depend on what exposure setting you are using on your camera, i.e. AV, TV, or Manual.

If using AV, which is the setting that I would greatly recommend you to use, then you simply adjust the exposure by pressing the exposure compensation button. + for over exposure and - for underexposure.

If you use manual mode, then you adjust the exposure by setting both the aperture and shutter speed of the camera yourself. If your camera gives you a reading for correct exposure, you can over expose or under expose the image by adjusting either of these values. Remember, bigger numbers (either aperture or shutter speed) always mean less light and will result in under exposure. Smaller numbers (either aperture or shutter speed) always mean more light and will result in over exposure.

Bracketing implies that you take a shot overexposed by a certain number of stops,e.g. +1f stop, that you take a shot at correct exposure, and that you take a shot underexposed by a certain number of stops, e.g. -1 fstop. Thus, you have created a net around the exposure value that will give the best result.

Opening up the lens means that you change the aperture value so that the lens diaphragm is fully open and allows the most light through (small numerical values). Closing down means that you change the lens diaphragm so that very little light is allowed through (large numerical values).

If you need help with determining the depth of field in an image while shooting, I would suggest that you purchase some DOF charts. #4975

Glenn Theal January 26, 2002

White is generally achieved by overexposing the image by 1 to 1 and 1/2 stops. #4976

January 26, 2002

Michelle, the thing to remember is that when you let your camera set the exposure for you, it meters the entire scene and adjusts it to 18% gray. If you have a predominantly bright or white scene, the camera will try to dull it down to the 18% gray so you need to compensate by overexposing it by 1 stop or so. Conversely, if you have a predominantly dark or black scene, the camera will try to brighten it up to 18% gray so you need to underexpose it by a stop or so. There are fancier metering techniques, such as metering off the front of your hand or spot metering off a neutral portion of your composition and then taking the picture, but this takes time and you will miss those action shots. To keep it simple, use exposure compensation to "keep the whites white and the darks dark". #4981

January 30, 2002

With photos editing software while adjusting the colors I added a little magenta and it made my white flower whiter. I used the level equalization first to get rid of the bluish cast after scanning a negative. Nice picture though. I like that early morning softness, she/he needs some hot cocoa.

Gail B #5132


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