 Rebekah R. Hunt |
How to Shoot Great Senior Portraits I have to take a couple peoples senior pictures in a couple of weeks and they want indoor pictures. I have no back drops but have ideas of how to work around that. My plans are to buy some type of thick material such as black and white and use that as the back drop also. I have no studio lighting but They only want a few indoor pictures in their gown against a black or a white back drop. I want these to look professional with what I have. I take excellent outdoor pictures. What should I do? I have a Canon AE-1 that has a separate flash that I don't really know how to use and I just bought a Nikon N-70 which I have not used yet? which camera should I use for these? I AM A QUICK LEARNER. Is it possible to use black and white film inside against say a black satin homemade backdrop with a flash already on the camera? If anyone can help me please be my guest. Are there any type of homemade things I could make? Any type of help is needed.
|
|
|
|
||
|
Andy |
An advice I got is that you don't go on an assignment with the equipment you are not familiar with. I learned it the hard way. Personally I will stick with the AE-1 until I am very familiar with the new camera. As for the backdrop, other experts here may help you how to make one yourself because I either use the wall (for b&w) or the one I bought. For professional look portraits, you should separate your flash from your camera and put it on the side, at 45 degree, of your subject. It is doable with only one flash. But you must get a sync cord to connect your camera and the flash. I started out with a Canon AT-1 and one Metz flash (with tilted head). I mounted the flash on a tripod about 4 feet away from the subject, set the flash to full burst and tilted the flash head upward so the light is bounced from the ceiling (softer light and eliminate shadow behind). From 6 feet my setting on the camera should be f11 at 1/60 second. Since I bounced the light from the ceiling, I have to compensate for the light lost (approximately one and one half or two stops). So my setting is f5.6 at 1/60 second. Your flash manual should tell you what f stop to use at what distance and speed of film. You just need to open up 1 1/2 or 2 stops if you bounce the light. Later I bought an umbrella and a bracket to bounch the light. I also invested in a flash meter, a reflector, another Metz flash and a slave unit. The problem with my light source bouncing from the ceiling in your situation is when the subject has the hat on because of the shadow under the hat. In this case, I would mount the flash on the tripod, slightly above your subject and cover the flash head with a white facial tissue or a thin rice paper and open up at least two stop and bracket from there. It would be very helpful if you have a flash meter so you know the exact exposure. As you move the light, the exposure will be different. Run a test roll before your assignment. Hope this helps.
|
|
|
|
||
|
Jeff Grove |
You didn't mention whether you're taking shots of individuals or a group, but you might try positioning your subject(s)near a window using the natural light for illumination. Overcast light is best, as opposed to direct sunlight which can cause harsh shadows. You can still use a flash for fill if necessary to soften any shadows. Just a suggestion. Good luck. Jeff G.
|
|
|
|
||
|
Judith A. Clark |
As for backgrounds I sugjust sheets. Its cheap and easy, black and white are easy to work with and look great in color or b&w. Iron them or steam them first or you will be disappointed. I say this from experience. Andy and Jeff are both right. You are talking about older kids that might stand still if you use natural light. Although some high school seniors can't. Good luck
|
|
|
|
||
|
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here
Report this Thread |
||