 Gregory S. Vaughn |
Washed Out Pictures I'm not really sure what the problem is with my pictures (exposure or other problem) but many of my pictures from a recent trip seem washed out and/or overexposed (too light). Here's the situation: I have a Nikon N50. I have a Tiffen Circular Polarizer that I use with it almost all the time (outdoors). I recently went on a trip to Japan and Hong Kong and I took 26 rolls of pictures. MOST of my pictures look very colorless. I have been shooting my pictures mostly using the landscape program because I want to see all of the detail. I can't tell if my pictures are overexposed (too light) or if something else is making them look so washed up. I have not adjusted the f-stop for using the polarizing filter... but I wasn't sure if the 3-D matrix metering would adjust for this automatically or not. What is likely causing my problem? - Not adjusting for f-stop of filter? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Gregory S. Vaughn |
Oh yeah... I don't know if this info helps, but I used a variety of film from 200-800 ISO but mostly 200 and 400 ISO Kodak Max.
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Jeff S. Kennedy |
- Not adjusting for f-stop of filter?: No, your camera will meter through the filter and will therefore adjust for it. - Using landscape mode (large degree of field)?: Don't see how that could cause overexposure. - Using polarizing filter excessively?: Shouldn't directly cause overexposure either. - Lab problem (not developed properly)?: Very possible. Overexposed negative film would have to be severely overexposed to produce bad images. Negative film can handle overexposure very well and still give you nice prints. You may just need to take the film back and have them reprint it. Sometimes automated machines don't make the necessary adjustments and the operators don't pay enough attention. - Other (or more than one of above)?: Could be your metering technique. Could be a sticky shutter. Could be a faulty meter in your camera.
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doug Nelson |
I had similar problems recently with a new camera. Negatives that look the way you describe may have been underexposed. Slide film looks sickly and thin when overexposed. With negative film, exposure to light builds density in the highlights. Let enough light through to the film and you have density. What I did was to trust the autoexposure in very bright lighting conditions. I allowed my light meter to freak and select too fast a shutter speed, thus under-exposing my negs. I didn't get it until later in the trip. Then I used exposure compensation to give the film another stop and a half of exposure. I could have saved myself this trouble by being more familiar with the metering system in the new camera.
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james marcus |
Although fortunate enough not to have experienced this myself, I have friends that related similar experiences of ghosting, fogging, and wash out that was caused from security check points. For example, allowing the film to pass through an airport metal detector and x-ray examination station. From what I understand, this creates aweful exposures on your negs. Just a suggestion for thought.
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j lucius estes |
I would suggest using an 18% gray card. You should be able to pick one up at any good photography store. Hold the card up in front of your camera and set the proper exposer, then aime the camera at your subject and click. I only use all-manual equipment and am not sure how you would do this with an automatic focus camera but I hope this helps. Also if when you are shooting try to be in the same light as your subject, ie, if subject is in sunlight and you are in shadows expose for the light. That is where the gray card comes in handy. All camera meters average the light hitting the meter to an 18% gray. Doing this before you shoot with the gray card corrects the reading and you get a better shot. Hope this helps and have fun shooting. s
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Jeff S. Kennedy |
I'm not completely convinced of the usefulness of a gray card. A gray card can give you screwy readings depending upon the angle of reflectance. Besides, who wants to carry around that silly card with them everywhere they go. When I need a reading like that I meter the palm of my hand and open up a stop. Works every time.
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Gregory S. Vaughn |
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I've reviewed some of my previous pictures (from another trip) and I'm thinking perhaps I will try using an ND filter to see if this will help. I think the biggest problem might be that I'm either overexposing the sky or underexposing the other parts relative to it. I'm not exactly sure how the metering works for the N50 (I'm going to read more...but I know I can force the metering to lock based on a certain point if I hold a button on the back of the camera while aiming at that point. I will try doing this in the darker areas (subject) while using an ND filter for the sky and see if this helps.
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Taweephol Thipayarat |
Was the ISO setting on the camera (if not auto) set to the corresponding film ISO?
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Gregory S. Vaughn |
The camera recognizes ISO automatically (I didn't manually override - if possible on the N50). BTW...I meant to say on the last post a GRADUATED ND Filter.
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Michael F. Harrington |
I have to agree with the airport security thing, This will ruin undeveloped and unexposed films. Next time buy in country and develop in country. What does landscape have to do with it? Sounds as if you do not understand what that function means. It doesn't change any viewing angle. It changes you camera's programming for exposure control. Aperture? Not hardly. Your camera programs that in, too. Filter is NOT your problem. I shot all over Japan and Hong Kong with a polarizer with superb results. Your camera compensates since it's AE Lab? Possible, but I'm sticking with the security scanner. It just sounds most likely that it's the culprit.
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Eddie Lagos |
The Nikon d50 is definately a good starter camera. If you want image stabalization though try looking into the Sony alpha, it recieved camera of the year by some photo magazine, like if that matters.
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Mark Feldstein |
Well Greg, you're getting a lot of interesting suggestions here but not having actually seen your film or even a print, but especially your negs, it's all speculation. I can tell you what it's definitely not. You're not describing base side emulsion fog from airport x-ray damage. That's a distinct problem that produces splotches from fogging on the film depending on how it's situated to the radiation source. If you see violet/magenta streaking on the base side of the emulsion, then maybe you've got emulsion fogging but on every roll you shot, it's not likely. In fact, it's highly UNlikely even if the film went through checked baggage and a CTX 5000 scanner. My suggestion is first of all, stop using all these filters. They're rarely necessary and only under special circumstances. If you really really REALLY feel you want to enhance the color saturation of the film, first, use a pro grade emulsion like Fuji Superia or Agfa Optima not Kodak Gold or something like that. And, just add a warming filter, say an 81B or even a "Redhancer" filter from like B+H. Polarizers are for reducing glare or reflections. Not scene color enhancers although they can do that as a side effect. They can also fool internal meters into over or underexposing (often significantly) depending on the scene lighting. Especially center weighted meters Using a gray card, ....well, I wouldn't with a polarizer because once you get back to the scene you're shooting, you still have to readjust the polarizer and there goes the value of your gray card reading. ND filters? What kind? Why? If your sky is that hot when you're shooting than a variable grade ND filter is ok, but you meter for the foreground, lock in the exposure add the ND filter and then shoot at the locked in exposure. Labs? Not likely. In fact, very unlikely. Okie dokie. If you want to post some images, that may turn some opinions around a bit.
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Mark Feldstein |
Sorry Greg. One other thing I forgot to mention is a problem with either the camera or built-in meter itself. That's easy enough to have checked at a local camera repair shop. Probably won't even charge you to do that. Oh, and of course the batteries. You DID change the batteries right? Greg....GREG !!!!!! Mark
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Christopher A. Vedros |
You might have to shout a little louder, Mark - his film problem was posted over 4 years ago! Eddie, check the dates on posts before responding. No need to drag up old news. Chris A. Vedros
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Eddie Lagos |
Maybe he forgot.
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Mark Feldstein |
THAT's funny Chris !!!! I checked the membership date but not the original post date. Well, OTOH, at least the same answer would apply to someone with a similar problem even if their travel destination was different. LOL !!! M.
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Gregory S. Vaughn |
Mark, Thanks for the suggestions...but as mentioned a little bit earlier, it was a LONG time ago. I actually don't shoot film anymore (do most of us?). I now shoot digital so I can better see how my pictures are instantly and adjust (and/or also post-process when necessary). I think Eddie (the first person to bring this topic back from the dead) got the Nikon N50 confused with the Nikon D50.
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