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Camera Shake (Flinch)?


Can anyone help me? Iam 53 years old, have been shooting since high school year book in 1974. I have discovered in the past year or so that when I depress the shutter release that I flinch real bad resulting in camera shake. I shoot with a Nikon D300 and their vibration restisant(VR)lens ,i also notice when I shoot with my SB800 flash my images look a bit better.i notice also the problem accurs even out doors on sunny days at higher shutter speeds, any ideas?


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May 19, 2009

 

Jessica Jenney
  Patrick, why don't you buy a shutter remote release? That would probably be the best solution.


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May 19, 2009

 

Mark Feldstein
  Howdy Patrick !
It's less likely that your flinching is related to age as opposed to technique. In that respect, I offer the following:

Soft images can be caused by a number of factors either singly or in combination. Subject movement aside, using a long lens whether fixed or a zoomer, say a 200 or even 400 mm lens at less than optimal shutter speeds say 1/250th or 1/500th for those two lenses, can lead to soft images especially at higher magnification/enlargement. Thus, that's one technique to try, higher speeds or even bump your ISO up a bit.
Using a camera support of some kind when possible is also helpful. I like using larger lenses off a monopod (I prefer Gitzo but there are countless others offered). As Jess suggested, a remote release, like a radio slave coupled to a release, can be another solution although my preference is just mounting the camera on a tripod and using a short cable release for long exposures.
BTW, I also like using a quick release plate on all my pods, tripods and monopods. Supporting the camera on a tree limb, rock, a wall, are also useful supports. OR, leaning against one of those things can provide additional stability at any shutter speed.
Finally, practicing good shutter release technique can be very helpful again at all shutter speeds. I recommend using an eye cup on the viewfinder to allow you to firmly press the camera to your face, supporting it firmly from the bottom, tucking your elbows into your sides to support them and then holding your breath as you gently depress the shutter release.
Take it light ;>)
Mark


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May 19, 2009

 

Alan N. Marcus
  Hi Patrick,

As always, Mark is spot on. I do however offer one tip that could be helpful.
Procure a circular ladies make-up mirror. You can pop one out of an inexpensive compact from the dollar store. Using duct tape, mount the mirror squarely over the camera lens. Procure a flashlight that produces a good tight beam and place it on a mantel or dresser. Aim the flashlight at you and the handheld camera. The idea is to cause the mirror to reflect the flashlight beam and cast it on the wall adjacent to the flashlight. In other words, you see on the wall, a circular spot of light the origin being the mirror taped/camera.
Now practice pressing the shutter release (dry fire). Any movement or unsteadiness will be instantly revealed by movements and dancing of the spot of light. This technique is quite effective when teaching correct shutter release technique.
Practice will resolve this problem.
Best regards,


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May 19, 2009

 

Bob Cammarata
  Use your timer.
Or you can set your shutter to "burst" and fire off multiple frames. The movement of the camera will register on the first and last exposures (when you press and release the shutter). The middle frames will be sharpest.
Developing a good shutter release technique is an acquired skill.
(I like Alan's mirror trick).


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May 20, 2009

 

Jeffrey R. Whitmoyer
  Patrick,
I'm a few years older than you and have noticed that I'm not as steady as I once was. My solution is to use a tripod more often, coupled with a remote shutter release.
Once you are in your fifties the abuses of our younger days start taking a toll, at least in my case, so we have to find ways to compensate for the problems. Of course, thoughts of something more serious than normal wear and tear on the body crop up on particularly bad days, but it's mostly just getting older smacking us around a little.
Jeff


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May 21, 2009

 

John H. Siskin
 
 
  Chainpod detail
Chainpod detail
Shows how the chain, thumbscrew and nut fit together at the end of the chainpod.

John H. Siskin

 
 
Hi Patrick,
I got out of high school in 1947, so I am facing new issues with my shooting also. The chain-pod and it is a simple lightweight substitute for a monopod. I have successfully taken photos at a 1/15th of a second with this tool. You will need a 1/4 X 20 thumbscrew; you can get this at any hardware store. 1/4 X 20 is the size of the tripod socket in your camera. The threads on the thumbscrew should be about 1/2 inch long. You will also need about 6 feet of chain, more if you are very tall. Drill a hole through the flat part of the thumbscrew and attach the end of the chain into the hole. You may want to glue a nut on the thumbscrew to prevent over tightening the thumbscrew into the camera. You have just made a chain-pod! Now in order to use this, attach it to the tripod socket of your camera, step on the chain, and pull up. The tension you create on the chain serves to stabilize your camera. This project only requires a drill to complete.

Another consideration is how you hold the camera. The camera lens should be cradled in the left hand with the index finger and the thumb closest to the front of the lens. The elbow is braced in against the body. This will give you more control and stability than trying to hold the camera with the right hand.
I hope this helps!
John Siskin


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May 26, 2009

 

Bunny Snow
  I'm not as creative at deciphering problems and coming up with solutions as John Siskin.

But, what is helping me is the Really Right Stuff ballhead and adapter plates for longer lenses, which place the lens squarely over the center of the tripod base and reduce vibration.

I purchased a light weight Manfrotto carbon fiber tripod, which is easier to carry but it needs a ballast to add weight down the center at the time of shooting/capture.

Therefore, I carry an empty 1-gallon size plastic milk container and at my shooting destination fill it with sand/small stones/water to act as a ballast. This amazingly reduces vibration.

Hope this adds to the excellent advice of others.

Bunny


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May 27, 2009

 

John H. Siskin
  Geeze, I got out of high school in 1974. I have to learn to read this stuff. Anyway, the advantage of the chain pod is that you use it instead of a tripod. It weighs close to nothing and fits in an Altoids tin. There are a lot of great tripods, but it isn't always convenient to use one. Thanks, John


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May 27, 2009

 

Ahmadreza Panahi
  Hi Patrick
This shaking is not a matter of age but the construction of digital cameras I mean sensors, are such that they are more sensitive to shaking. you can examine your steadiness by shooting some shots at the same exposure with a film camera to prove that you are not old yet. yours: Ahmadreza Panahi


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May 27, 2009

 
- Amanda D. Austwick

BetterPhoto Member
Contact Amanda D. Austwick
Amanda D. Austwick's Gallery
  Hi Patrick,
I have been taking a lot of photos since my mid forties, and now I'm in my late 50's. Just use a tripod and remote as often as you can, and in flash situations where a tripod may be ruled out, set your camera to shutter priority with a speed of 250. Most new digital cameras will allow you to do that with flash.
Have fun, and learn like me to try and grow older gracefully, and enjoy it.
Amanda Austwick


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May 28, 2009

 

Daniel L. French
  As a physician photographer, I get concerned that new onset tremor can be an early sign of neurologic disease. If it's getting worse despite good technique, or if you're having trouble with eating, drinking, writing, consider a trip to your doctor for an evaluation.
Dan French, MD


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May 31, 2009

 
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