 BetterPhoto Member |
Photographing Paintings I've been trying to photograph my oil and pastel paintings for reproduction using my Digital Rebel XT with the 18-55mm lens that came with the camera. My work varies in size frm 5x7" to 24x48". I have not been able to get a really sharp image except on very rare occasions. Often I have to click the shutter button a few times to get it to focus when I am in autofocus using a single focus point. I've tried using the various av settings. I'm locking the mirror. I'm using a tripod. I'm using autofocus and then switching to manual and just manual focus. I've tried using a picture of a grid to set the focus point. I'm zooming all the way in. I'm using custom white balance. Do I need a different lens? What lens would be the best for this purpose that will also be the most economical?
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W. |
1) Zoom lenses deliver inherently softer focus images than fixed focus lenses of equal focal length. 2) 18-55mm = 29-88mm in 35mm equivalent. 88mm is too short for sufficient perspective distortion compensation. Between 100 and 135mm results in less distortion. Perspective distortion may contribute to the softer focus. 3) insufficient light may also contribute to apparent focal softness. For working from tripod the ideal lens, in my opinion, from a technical and image quality point of view, would be the EF 135mm f/2L USM. Using the self-timer, to let the camera/tripod combo stop swinging before the shutters pops, could also improve image quality. It may also be worth your while to consider a reproduction stand with 2, or preferably 4, quartz lights. Have fun!
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Jon Close |
With the DRebel XT, I'd use the EF 50 f/1.8. Less than $100 and very sharp. This gives you good working distance for the larger works, but as W mentioned, you'll be a bit close for the 5x7 (~18"). You might go for a longer macro lens for improved "flat field" performance (so the edges of the frame remain in the same plane of focus as the center), such as the EF 100 f/2.8 USM, or similar from Sigma or Tamron. Shoot at f/8, where the lens is sharpest. Depth of field is not a concern with a subject that has no depth, like a painting. Just make sure the camera is mounted perpendicular and centered relative to the painting. Use diffused lighting, no direct flash.
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W. |
I'd like to add: a bubble level and/or a grid in the viewfinder will serve you well for this type of work where dead-on horizontals and perpendiculars are so important. And if you use ambient light - diffused, as Jon pointed out - it is important to carefully set/calibrate the White Balance. Of course if you shoot RAW you can eek out every last ounce of image quality, color control, and texture rendering that's in the raw file. Skilfull application of HDR, tonemapping, blending exposures, and editing – in CS3 and/or Photomatix – can get you amazingly detailed and eye-pleasing results. Here's an exercise performed on a 24mp JPG from Sony's A900, B4&After: http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll173/HMrepository/A24mpJPGHDR-ed.jpg
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Bob Friedman |
I agree with most of the above but I would use the 50mm Macro and the 100mm macro. I used to shoot painting professionally for Giclee's for artists like Peter Maxx, Karen Stein, etc. Strong tripod, electronic release or self timer, and continuous soft light are key ingredients. I used an eyepeice magnifier and manually focused. I found an old finder magnifier for a film minolta that just happened to fit my Canon D20. A little loose but dirt cheap. make sure your square and centered to art work. For smaller work a copy stand is the best. Oh a right angle minolta finder also fits for use on the copy stand.
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