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Category: Indoor/Low-Light Photography

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Low Light Photography ... Without Flash


I am taking pictures at a wedding coming up. I will not be able to use a flash during the ceremony. How can I take good photos without a flash in low lighting? Also, what can I use to help with shadows?


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March 09, 2005

 

Andrew Laverghetta
  Try using a higher ISO - like 800, maybe. If you're using 35mm film, try Kodak Portra 800. If you have some money to spare, try getting a normal (50mm fixed) lens with a large maximum aperture. I have a Canon lens that cost me only around $90 and has a very large aperture of f/1.8. It can get you by in pretty low lighting - even with ISO 100.
Again, I would try using an ISO around 800 if you're using an SLR camera, and use a lens with a large aperture. Oh, I almost forgot. Make sure you use a good, working tripod. A wedding isn't normally considered action, so the people shouldn't be moving a whole lot. Hope this helps!


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March 09, 2005

 

Tony Sweet
  In my experience, photographing low-light candids without being allowed to use flash is a challenge, to say the least. I hope that they have a professional using flash. The best you can hope for is to shoot Tmax 3200 black and white film. Using a tripod in low light with people, unless the figures are mannequins, is a low-percentage situation, as there will almost always be slight movement, resulting in blur. Depending on how low the light is, ISO800 may not be enough.
To be ready, try to get to the location before the event to see what you're up against, light-wise. If that is not possible, consider having two camera bodies, one loaded with ISO800 and the other loaded with ISO3200.


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March 10, 2005

 

John L. Webb
  Shooting low light Weddings has been a specialty of mine for the past several years. I shoot with Leicas at wide open apertures and using film speeds varying (dependant on the lighting I have) from 400 to 3200. I have shot succesfuly hand held as low as 1/15th.
If you can't avoid movement, go with it. Shooting photojouranlistically as I do the movement can actually add to a shot if you frame it with panning motion.
I prefer the look I get with only natural light but here are times when any photographer will have to use some flash but at the moment of the ceremony should not be, in my opinion, one of them.
The suggestions you have received above are all excellent. If you have the chance, scout the location at the same time of day you will be shooting on and then allow for changes in weather that could affect your natural light. Trust yourself and have fun and look for the moments that make the day!


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March 15, 2005

 

Judy
  You said you could not use flash during the ceremony; well, you really shouldn't anyway. Shooting the ceremony in natural light just produces better looking photos (i.e., more ambience). Also, it is less distracting. The main thing to remember is use a tripod and 400 or 800 speed film. I have shot around 250 weddings and have never had a problem using this method. HOWEVER, I will say that I learned my lesson on the first wedding I shot and did not bring a flash OR a tripod. The wedding was supposed to be outdoors on a sunny day; well, surprise, it rained and everything got moved indoors. I was 150 miles away from my tripod and flash at that point and had to do the best I could. The photos were okay and had a certain style to them (the client thought they were very, um, arty), but I definitely knew what was missing and vowed to always be prepared in the future.

That said, after the ceremony you most likely will need flash unless it is an outdoor reception. Good luck!


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March 15, 2005

 

Maria Melnyk
  Both terrific answers and yes, yes, do buy that f/1.8 lens. I have a Canon 85mm f/1.8 that cost me over $300, but you can get a 50mm for less. Your shutter speed should be at least 1/60 for the 50mm, or 1/90 for the 85mm for hand-holding. I also have a fixed 28-80 f/2.8 lens. Your choice of film speed, of course, depends on the amount of available light. I've used everywhere from 400 to 3200, and one church was so dark that the 3200 just wouldn't do it. You can also have the film pushed if necessary. But keep that camera steady to avoid blur. Be careful whether using total manual or aperture-priority exposure; exposure could vary by a stop or even too if your subject moves so much as a foot. Manually meter several areas of the ceremony site prior to the ceremony. And if there is window light coming through, taking the setting sun into consideration.


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March 16, 2005

 

Kerry L. Walker
  John, why would you want to use a Leica (I assume M series) to shoot in low light situations when there are so many fine autofocus cameras available now? I can't see what a Leica rangefinder has to offer except:
a. Best lenses money can buy
b. No mirror - nearly vibration free
c. Easy to focus when autofocus is lost
d. Quiet as a mouse wetting on cotton

Oh, I know why you use a Leica. Cause they are cheap! (OK, so I'm jealous.)


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March 17, 2005

 
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