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Photography QnA: Problems with Images

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Category: What's Wrong With My Photographic Technique? : Problems with Images

Have questions regarding resizing photos for websites? How about taking pictures without shadows? Check this section out to find some answers.

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Photography Question 
Sherry L. Levasseur

member since: 5/4/2011
  31 .  Upload problems
 
I'm uploading pics of the same size as my previous uploads, but some are blank and some are postage-stamp size (not the same as my previous uploads). Is there a problem with the uploader?

1/23/2012 11:38:39 AM

  If the original image was cropped it will be smaller than the others.

Aside from that if they were taken with the same camera, I dunno.


Lynn

1/23/2012 12:34:14 PM

 
 
BetterPhoto.com Photo Contest Finalist
 
sfall10 0078
sfall10 0078
f/22, 0.8s, 24mm, ISO100, tripod
 
 
Hi Sherry,
Save a copy of the image as a jpeg and Photoshop Cntrl+I (size) to 400x600 and re-save - this should work.
My process is to process the raw image & save as .tif. Then I open the tif and resize to 800x1200 (400 x 600 will suffice) and save it again as jpg into a different folder (Better Photo pics) on my desktop and then upload the images from that folder. This way, all of my BP images are in the same place and sized for posting on the web and BP site.
I keep the raw & large .tifs in their original folder for further editing if/when I feel the need to work on them. There are lots of organizational methods and I also name my images like SilverFalls_0022.tif and when I resize & save it in the Desktop folder it gets assigned an "x" (SilverFalls_0022x.jpg) to signify its a small image for posting on the web :)
BTW - have you been to Silver Falls ?
Cheers,
Carlton

1/23/2012 10:12:16 PM

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Photography Question 
Barbara M. Budzinski
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Barbara
Barbara's Gallery
barbarabudzinskiphotography.com

member since: 8/29/2011
  32 .  Basic Portfolio Picture Description
Hello,
I am new to BP...signed up just last month and still have some issues with my Basic Portfolio. Is it me or some BP tricks. I don't understand why my picture description is visible in the old version but it's not in the new one. I sent this question to BP but....no answer.
I appreciate your help, looking forward to learn from the BP community. You guys are amazing !!!!
Barbara

1/17/2012 9:16:50 AM

  I don't understand it either, Barbara, and I've been around awhile. The date of upload also shows in the old version as long as you put a description of some kind in when you do the upload, but it does not show anywhere in the new version. It's nice to have a choice of versions. Some of us prefer the old version, some like the new.

1/18/2012 10:34:06 PM

  There is a box where you can either display or choose not to display your descriptions if you go to:
Basic Betterpholio Admin Center

1/20/2012 9:52:38 AM

  Thanks, Jessica. Since I don't use it, I'd never fully investigated the possibilities -- just noticed that many images I view there have no description showing. I'm sure some do have them and I'd not noticed that, either.

1/20/2012 10:26:36 AM

  Jessica and Nikki,
Thanks for your answer. I already resolved this big puzzle. It's true , in Basic Membership there is a possibility "Turn Show Photo Description" ......but what is very interesting and unusual you need to select "OFF" not "ON".......for me it's very weird, it's should be reverse. But anyway, thanks one more time for your help.

1/20/2012 12:46:50 PM

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Photography Question 
FERNANDA KINGSLEY-THOMAS
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/27/2010
  33 .  HOW TO REPLACE WASHED OUT SKIES
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF I CAN IMPROVE PICTURES THAT HAVE A NICE COLOUR BUT WASHED OUT SKIES. IN CAMERA RAW I CAN IMPROVE IT USING HSL IF THERE IS A BIT OF BLUE IN THE SKY. SOMETIMES EVEN SHOOTING IN RAW I GOT COMPLETELY WASHED OUT SKIES AND USING HSL MAKES NO DIFFERENCE. I TRIED TO FOLLOW SOME STEPS USING PHOTOSHOP CS5 TO REPLACE THE SKY BUT I COULD NOT DO IT. I NEED SOME BASIC STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS. IF ANY MEMBERS CAN HELP I WOULD BE VERY GRATEFUL AS I HAVE MANY NICE PICTURES THAT JUST NEED A NICE SKY. THANKS

12/26/2011 10:25:51 PM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  First off, are you comfortable using Layers and Layer Masks, and adjusting the Brush Tool softness & strength in PS?

12/27/2011 6:16:57 AM

FERNANDA KINGSLEY-THOMAS
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/27/2010
  HI CHRISTOPHER I AM AFRAID NOT. I AM JUST BEGINNING TO USE PHOTOSHOP FOR THE BASICS. I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE EASY JUST TO DO THAT.

12/27/2011 6:45:19 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Layers are so powerful, so useful, so valuable --- definitely worth studying up on!

I put together a very short video clip on a layer technique I used, to show a friend how I did it. Maybe it will get you started:

http://www.screencast.com/t/oylJ0vSlm

12/27/2011 8:32:20 AM

  Very nicely made and presented video along with easy-to-understand instructions, Chris. I think the shortcut keys that you mentioned in the video are really helpful.

Have you made anymore as I would definitely want to take a peek.

Usman.

12/27/2011 7:12:58 PM

FERNANDA KINGSLEY-THOMAS
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/27/2010
  Hi Chris. Thank you very much indeed for your help. I have a full house and have not had time to look at it yet. Will tomorrow and will let you know.
Many thanks for your help.

12/28/2011 2:20:27 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Thanks, Usman... I've not made more; this was my first attempt. If you have any particular topics I might know about, let me know! I'd gladly do another one...

12/28/2011 3:57:11 AM

  Well Done Chris,
I have a few saved from Lewis Kemper when I took his Photoshop Toolbox classes. I sometimes forget simple things when I haven't done them in a while so its nice to have a quick reference to shake the cobwebs loose.
How did you record this ? I have an iMac and am sure its easy but have never tried to make a video but I am curious to try it sometime :)
Cheers,
Carlton

12/28/2011 10:21:52 PM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Hi Carlton---I used a freeware product called Jing; does the recording of screencapture (you specify how much screen to capture) as well as audio (though the built-in mic on the laptop isn't great!)

12/29/2011 4:17:37 AM

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Photography Question 
Yulianto Soeroso
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/27/2006
  34 .  SOMEBODY HACKING MY PHOTO
 
Today December 8 2011 I upload my photo but sudenly the result change with the other photo .. why ? so I deleted and I uploaded again the same photo but it;s change againt with Moon photo ?? who is change my photo ...and I make note with other response with original photo but afrter minutes the photo change to with other photo ... I already change my password but not work ..my original photo alway change wo what happen ? Yulianto Soeroso beloe I try oroginal photo girl with red gown maybe ...... after minute change I don't know ...BP help me fromd hacker

12/8/2011 3:58:24 AM

Yulianto Soeroso
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/27/2006
  wow then my photo chance with red gown but with horse fals ...hacjker ! in the see shore hahaha you are wrong hacker

12/8/2011 4:07:07 AM

Yulianto Soeroso
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/27/2006
  hahah diffrent picture again this statue B/W change the red gown haha may be if you see this photo already chang with other photo ..

12/8/2011 4:12:27 AM

Ken Smith
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Ken
Ken's Gallery

member since: 6/11/2005
  This has happened to me as well this morning..three times, and I just deleted each photo. I will reenter my photo this afternoon. I doubt it's a hacker, but something is going on at BP site. If it impacted both of us, it probably affected others as well.

12/8/2011 4:16:30 AM

Ken Smith
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Ken
Ken's Gallery

member since: 6/11/2005
  Check out the Contest Entry page:

http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGall2.asp?catID=560

You'll see the same photos submitted by several people...a glitch...

12/8/2011 4:18:19 AM

Yulianto Soeroso
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/27/2006
  yes may be that is Ken I found it is in the BP site because I try make upload in the q/ a same happen with in my entry I this if some new entry always change by that program ..may be will effect to all member in BP

12/8/2011 4:33:49 AM

Yulianto Soeroso
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/27/2006
  hahaha it's funny some many double photo and wow this home work for Jim and staff ..we now waiting to see next

12/8/2011 4:36:32 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Looks like a glitch at BP... the "posterized head" image is *MY* contest entry today, and it also appears as Joy Rector's, and Viveca Veneca's... There are several "duplicates" in the Recent Entries pages today...

12/8/2011 5:11:14 AM

Yulianto Soeroso
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/27/2006
  yes from page 1 up tu 6 all worst hahaha maybe some small program by hacker insert in BP server and have intruction if some foto upload should be change with their random data base photo ( maybe random pick rom bp server too hihi ) maybe she work in BP server register ... I hope team found that virus or trojan , and make brigade for close the hole ...

12/8/2011 5:35:01 AM

  I tried twice, deleted them both times but they are still there under somebody elses name. I emailed Jay the computer guy about 5:30 this morning CST, so he won't see it for a while, but I'm sure they will get it fixed. Meanwhile, it's FUBAR.

12/8/2011 6:49:02 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Seeing how widespread the problem is (and still happening) makes me wonder if they can "fix it" so that everyone's proper entry is restored... I suspect 12/8 will become a "lost day" of entries, unless they delete all entries behind the scenes, and email everyone who made an entry to get them to re-do it later today. Surely they'll need to delete the duplicates from everyone?
The "Recent Entries" screens continue to fill up with duplicate/triplicate entries appearing as the entries of several people at once.

12/8/2011 7:12:48 AM

  Thanks for letting us know early about this glitch. We're working on the upload issues now. Thanks for your patience everyone.

Karen
Team BetterPhoto

12/8/2011 8:47:03 AM

 
The issue is resolved going forward. Wasn't a hacker at all, but an issue with our alternate / single image uploader. It's resolved now going forward. Very sorry for any confusion caused.

Thanks,

12/8/2011 8:56:07 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Thanks, Jay---how do we get "our" photos out of any other members' galleries and/or Contest Entries?

12/8/2011 9:03:12 AM

  Good question. We're going through and removing obvious dupes caused by this today. We've removed many and will do another pass through to catch any additional ones.

If you notice any, feel free to email me directly at jay (at) betterphoto.com.

Thanks

12/8/2011 9:49:57 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Thanks! I see the # of dups is dropping now, from earlier morning entries...

12/8/2011 9:50:55 AM

  Ouch -- what a lot of work for you guys! Thanks for getting right on it, Jay. Glad I stumbled on this thread early and decided to hold off on entering -- that gives you one less image to worry about LOL

12/8/2011 12:32:57 PM

Yulianto Soeroso
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 6/27/2006
  yeah it;s look okay now. I don;t know what it was happen ..but now we enjoy to see the many nice photo in BP hahaha salute thank BP Team hahaa that time I try to change my password ..before I did.t kow it all memeber habe the same thing with me ..because first I thing my password hack by some one ...after saw in Dyno site oh I understand this mayby some rror in yha server hahaha thank friend and keep in touch hahaha jul

12/8/2011 4:53:16 PM

  Thanks Jay for your prompt attention and resolution of the problem and letting everyone know.

UB.

12/8/2011 8:13:05 PM

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Photography Question 
Meghan Gonski

member since: 9/7/2007
  35 .  Viewing Photos
okay who has a PC and a Canon camera? I have both and this problem is driving me nuts:
windows picture/fax viewer (henceforth WPFV) has started not rotating my vertical images at all. I have googled this and read forums and found that it's a common problem; it doesn't read the rotation information on the picture. (it used to occasionally though!)That's fine, I've started learning to like my zoombrowser viewing program that came with my canon. That rotates the images fine. So I will view them in the Zb and organize them in files in WPFV
However, when I go to upload pics to the internet, the vertical photos are not rotated there either. So then I have to go to the WPFV to manually rotate them. Which is not just time consuming, I have read that it ruins the picture pixels by compressing them to be vertical.
anyone have this problem and know how to fix it? I've already tried changing the viewing settings in my camera.

12/6/2011 1:41:51 AM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Have you explored the camera setting on the Rebel, for "Auto Rotate of Vertical Images"?

12/6/2011 8:15:58 AM

Meghan Gonski

member since: 9/7/2007
  yeah that works--in the camera.

12/10/2011 9:27:01 PM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  The manual indicates it should also work with your Canon software... so I think you'd be better off dropping Windows Pic/Fax viewer from your workflow.

12/11/2011 5:29:36 AM

Meghan Gonski

member since: 9/7/2007
  I pretty much have for my viewing/editing/organzing,
but the problem still persists that I have is that when I upload to the internet the verticals are horizontal.

12/13/2011 4:35:30 PM

  Hi Meghan,
I dont know if this works on PC but try holding the control key while pressing the right bracket ] or left bracket key [
This would rotate my images quickly when I used my old Canon 1DS with Photoshop/Bridge. My 5D mk II images automatically load correctly :)

12/13/2011 7:16:15 PM

Christopher J. Budny
BetterPhoto Member
chrisbudny.com

member since: 10/3/2005
  Another question...are these straight from the camera, as-is? Or are you doing editing first?
If they are as-is files, I believe when you view and even Rotate in WPFV, that rotation isn't saved within the file. But if you were to open the file in an editor, rotate, and do any other edits, then save it---then the file would always reflect that rotation.

12/14/2011 5:23:36 AM

Meghan Gonski

member since: 9/7/2007
  Sorry I lost the post to this thread.
Anyway...
Carlton, the keyboard tip didn't work :/ thanks though
Christopher, both. some are straight from the camera others are edited. If I edit in LR and save it will still be wrongly rotated in WPFV. If I edit in PhotoImpact Pro, I have to rotate it in that program, then when I save it, it will be correct rotate in WPFV. So as you said it will reflect that rotation after saving in editing program. However, I don't edit all my photos and rotating saving in editing would be time consuming....
Any more suggestions?? (*hopefully?*)

12/25/2011 8:25:34 PM

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Photography Question 
Larry Smith
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Larry
Larry's Gallery

member since: 7/13/2004
  36 .  Full Moon
 
Shooting a full moon, I'm getting all white and no details, what is the best way to photograph the full moon?

11/9/2011 3:11:38 PM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  Common question. Start at f/11, ISO 100, shutter speed 100th (or 125t,h if you don't have 100th), and raise shutter or ISO as needed while matching the correct aperture.
Search "moon" in the Q&A and you'll get a bunch of stuff for it.

11/9/2011 3:56:32 PM

  Thanks for the quick response Gregory, I'm going out now before the clouds come in and try it, and I will let you kow how I made out
Thank you
Larry

11/9/2011 5:09:00 PM

  Hi Larry,
I think I shot at f/11 and 1/125s at ISO100 last time and got details (Full Moon). Here is a chart as a guide because the different phases require slight adjustments :)
I use my 100-400mm lens w/1.4 extender and tripod/manual focus...

Lunar Photography Exposure Guide (@f/16)
ISO Film Speed Full Moon Gibbous 1st Quarter Thick Crescent Thin Crescent Earthshine
25 1/15 1/8 1/4 1/2 1
50 1/30 1/15 1/18 1/4 1/2
100 1/60 1/30 1/15 1/8 1/4
200 1/125 1/60 1/30 1/15 1/8 40 to 80 sec.
400 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/30 1/15 20 to 40 sec.
800 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/30 10 to 20 sec.
1600 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 5 to 10 sec.
3200 1/2000 1/1000 1/300 1/250 1/125 2 to 5 sec.
home.hiwaay.net/~krcool/Astro/moon/howtophoto/
Hope this helps,
Carlton

11/9/2011 6:02:54 PM

  Thanks, Carlton you and Gregory wre a big help, I just hop toniht clears up and try again
Thanks again Larry

11/10/2011 6:55:46 AM

Ken De Pree
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Ken
Ken's Gallery

member since: 5/15/2008
  Do a Google search. Lots of good info available on the subject.

11/22/2011 6:13:12 AM

  Thanks Ken I tried it there are a lot of good ideas to shoot all phases of the moon

11/22/2011 7:38:38 AM

Dan W. Dooley
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 10/28/2005
 
 
  Supermoon Over Texas
Supermoon Over Texas
f/8, 1/640 sec, Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM at 400mm, Handheld, 9:04 PM. The moon was practically directly overhead.
 
 
Larry, I don't know if you've been successful yet in your moon shots but there are a couple of points which I have not seen touched on yet. I have had good success at getting well exposed moon shots. The secret is to avoid overexposure. The camera meter is seeing the "whole" of the sky around the moon and averaging the metered light. It's saying in effect, "it's a dark scene so the exposure needs to be increased." The meter is being fooled. The blackness being the bulk of the "scene" in the frame is calling for more exposure and thus the part which is actually light is overexposed.

Try spot metering and meter off of the surface of the moon itself. Try a couple of test shots and if it's still too bright, reduce the exposure. If you are using other than Manaul reduce the exposure with EC by some amount you may need to experiment with. I use only manual exposure and I may reduce the exposure by a good part of, or to a whole f-stop. As the light from the moon is bright, yes, you can use a moderatly low ISO. 100 should work.

My last time was at ISO 200. Shutter speed was 1/640 sec, f/8. Focal length 400mm. Handheld. I could have shot it at ISO 100 but I was handholding and wanted to keep the shutter speed up

I am including an image to show that it can be done.

12/9/2011 5:27:56 PM

Dan W. Dooley
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 10/28/2005
  BTW, the shot was made March 19, 2011 when the moon was announced to be closer than normal thus presenting a larger view. Fortunately we had clear skies that night.

12/9/2011 5:35:24 PM

  Thanks for the great tip Dan, Friday night was overcast, Saturday & Sunday were Christmas activies, now I have to wait for next month, by the way great photo

12/12/2011 10:01:33 AM

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Photography Question 
Annie Hanley
BetterPhoto Member
anniehanley.com

member since: 7/2/2007
  37 .  Photo removed or not approved
Lots of time I get this message when I want to enter a photo in the contest.
Why? I don't have a clue what I'm doing wrong.
Can you please help me.
Thanks
Annie

10/28/2011 5:56:35 AM

Ken De Pree
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Ken
Ken's Gallery

member since: 5/15/2008
  If you are entering the photos that are in your gallery, I don't understand why, either. You should contact the administration and ask for an explanation.

10/28/2011 6:02:13 PM

  I don' know if you are trying to enter more than one a day or not. But if you are the limit IS one photo per day and the second one would be refused. Or if there is some reason for them to believe that you did not take the photo it would not be qualified.

If the answer is "No" to both then I don't no.

10/28/2011 10:08:39 PM

  If you are using a photo that you entered as "private" for a class or just because....you need to "display" the image, then, if you want, un-display it...then it will work.

10/31/2011 5:58:23 PM

Annie Hanley
BetterPhoto Member
anniehanley.com

member since: 7/2/2007
  Thank you all.
Bob,you were right.That fixed it
Annie

11/2/2011 4:36:52 PM

  Finally I got one right... :-)

11/2/2011 4:39:02 PM

Annie Hanley
BetterPhoto Member
anniehanley.com

member since: 7/2/2007
  As they say Bob,
"Persistence pays off" ;)

11/4/2011 5:02:35 AM

  Thanks Bob! I appreciate the community replies here. Do you think members go here before the Help Pages? We used to post more tips here that lead to great discussions about how to do things better, trouble shoot etc.

Your thoughts?
Karen

P.S. Bob, big game in the Dawg house tonight - you watching?!?

11/5/2011 11:14:21 AM

  'welcome... :-)

I don't know. Truthfully, I dont think I've ever checked the help pages...oops.

I'd guess that this forum is a much better place....more people, more thoughts/exchanges...

11/5/2011 3:35:31 PM

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Photography Question 
Susan J. Allen
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Susan
Susan's Gallery

member since: 8/20/2005
  38 .  Focus Catastrophe-how to compensate
 
A young graduate of our college has become an official college photographer, but just had a catastrophe

10/27/2011 2:47:32 AM

  Sorry, didn't finish writing here! Anyway, he had forgotten to put the camera into auto-focus and came away with unfocused images. The problem is that these students are out working in practicums in various towns and had only come to the campus for a day--in other words, there is no way to restage another shoot. He's frantic and has asked me to help him try to salvage the pics. So, using everything I know to try to fix them, though my skills are not great. Anyway, methods I use to sharpen (but usually on pics that are focused to begin with!): 1) Put the image in lab mode, click on channels in the layer palette, then lightness, then go to filter to sharpen with Smart Sharpen. 2) I've found (I think) that Noise Ninja has a very good sharpener, so sometimes use that. 3) Of course, can use the sharpening brush, perhaps on eyes, but that seems to add a lot of noise. 4) Sometimes if it's a portrait, I'll select the eyes and contrast them, and then sharpen the eyes, nostrils and mouth and then use Noise Ninja on everything but that. Can't think of anything else. Does anyone have any other tricks? I've uploaded one of the pics, but hard to see here. Thanks for any help!

10/27/2011 3:00:56 AM

  Another question regarding this. I am also choosing which images to work on, as he took three of every group. I notice that one of them seems just slightly sharper, but also seems to have more noise. Wondering if I should choose that one. Worried that it might actually be artifacts instead of noise. Another question I've had for ages and wanted to ask: When I use the method number one above, in lab mode--is that method really a better way to sharpen, or is it simply to let you see the effect of noise more clearly as you are sharpening?

10/27/2011 3:05:07 AM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  Save yourself some stress and realize this, something that's out of focus isn't going to look in focus with sharpening.
Now that that's out the way. I can't speak of Noise Ninja because I don't have it, and I can't even speak of lab mode in photoshop because I don't have that in my version. I just use what came with my camera. But I got layers, and using a lot of layers is what you can do.
Sine he took three of each, look over each one and see if one row is better in one picture than the other. Use as many layers as you need and do some selective sharpening on a section or even a single person. Then you can use layer mask to erase and blend elements from each picture.
You may not be able to use this with this photo since it's a group shot at a distance, but a trick to shooting something to give an impression of more being in sharp focus than what really is, is if you were shooting something like and apple but your depth of field isn't large. Your natural tendency is to focus on the skin surface that's closest to you. Depth of field can be shallow enough that the skin is in focus but the stem isn't. But the skin of an apple is pretty smooth, not a lot of texture, but the stem has texture. So if you focus on the stem instead, you see the edge sharpness in the texture of it, it gives the impression that the whole picture is sharp.
So any detail in faces may not be there at all, but with other parts of the picture, be it sharpening or maybe you can use some contrast adjustments with the black robes to differentiate some edges a little more, you can give an impression of a sharper picture.

10/27/2011 5:53:50 PM

  Thanks Gregory! I'll look at the photos and see if there is any difference in the points of focus. And then I'll take your advice and also do what I can to make the photo as a whole look sharper without creating a lot of noise on the faces.

10/28/2011 4:00:58 AM

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Photography Question 
Pat Harry
BetterPhoto Member
Contact Pat
Pat's Gallery

member since: 11/26/2006
  39 .  Critique, please
 
  A Friendly Face
A Friendly Face
© Pat Harry
Nikon D80 Digital ...
 
For those of you who shoot people, would you mind giving me some critique on this image. I'm not looking for "oh, it's good", or "oh, it's just not that good". :) I'd really like some suggestions on what to do to improve.

10/25/2011 4:31:17 PM

  Pat, I'm not a people shooter, but can give critiquing your image a try as a generic shot.

Overall, you have a pleasing pose, and the face is well framed by the hair. And yes, oh, it's good ;-)

However if this were mine, I'd do something about the black vertical line in the background because if you enlarge the thumbnail, it becomes quite dominant.

I'd also darken the shoulder where it hits the bottom of the frame because it's quite bright, and my eye keeps dropping down out of the picture. I'd give the earring a bit of a sharpen since it's so shiny. Finally I'd do some levels/curves work on the whole as I find it a bit muddy.

I hope that's what you were looking for. If not, you can take aim at anything in my gallery ...

10/26/2011 6:11:33 AM

  Pat....it's a lovely image, but needs some brightening and overall editing. It can go from decent to really good I think! Let me know if you want more information and take a look at the people images in my gallery. Oh, if you send me your e-mail address I will send you an image I just edited for someone...I didn't takt it but it's such a great example of going from nice to WOW.

Sandy :-)

10/26/2011 7:45:18 AM

Pat Harry
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member since: 11/26/2006
 
 
   
 
Kay, Sandy - thank you very much! You both have gorgeous galleries. Here's another pass at editing. I cropped it a bit more to eliminate some of the bright chest and shoulder - although I think I should have cropped from the camera right, rather than camera left.

Sandy, I'll send send you my email address. I would love to see the image you mentioned. Thank you!

10/26/2011 6:08:45 PM

Pat Harry
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member since: 11/26/2006
  ooh - the colors look much better in Photoshop than they do in this uploaded version.

10/26/2011 6:10:01 PM

  Thank you, Pat...oh my e-mail address is HisSparow@aol.com...make sure you only put one R in sparow...AOL would only let me have one R. I would also love to see the original unedited version of your image. It could really be great I think.... :-)

10/26/2011 6:12:24 PM

Pat Harry
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Here is the original unedited version.

10/26/2011 6:26:30 PM

  Hi Pat,
I have learned from Jim Zuckerman and my own experience with shooting portraits is that "Background can make or break an image". A beautiful background - uncluttered / flattering color / no roads.hulu-hoopers or port-a-johns behind a nicely lit person will make your subject look all the more beautiful.
When I set up to shoot, I look for the direction of the light, then the best background area to place them in front of and then select my DOF, distance & framing - in that order. Sometimes I move a couple of steps to one side and have the person turn to me and in just a couple of seconds I have created a better background or more flattering lighting for the subject.
I like your portrait and even prefer the darker exposure you used.
I had a beautiful senior girl that could not relax her face (she would smile but her forehead would scrunch up) but when I became pre-occupied about the background and lighting, it kind of loosened her up & drew her attention away from her camera shyness and I was able to get the shots with a relaxed expression.
220 / 221 whatever it takes... (Mr. Mom)
Carlton

10/26/2011 8:46:20 PM

Pat Harry
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  Thanks, Carlton! Excellent advice.

This was an unplanned shot, un-staged shot. She walked out as I was setting up, I asked if I could take a test shot for lighting, she tilted her head and smiled. I didn't not expect to keep the shot.

I know I really do need to work more on analyzing the background in all my shots. It's something I tend to forget when I'm rushed or nervous. Thanks for the reminder!

10/27/2011 5:49:14 AM

  Hi Pat,
This is a very effective shot. I like the changes you made to the background, especially in the last version. The catch lights in the eyes work very well, bringing the eye to the eye, if you will. I like the pose, particularly the way you can see the subject’s left eye brow. The eye make-up is a little harsh. Make-up for still photography needs to be subtle, and make-up for the street is often too harsh. Since this was a sort of grab shot this is expected. The light does a good job of defining the face, particularly the cheeks. You might want to use the shadow tool to define the chin a little more, it might help. Good work on the image. Thanks, John Siskin

11/2/2011 8:43:01 AM

Pat Harry
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  John, thank you very much for your comments. I'll work on the shadow under the chin. I have to agree with you about the makeup. :)

11/7/2011 7:16:25 PM

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FERNANDA KINGSLEY-THOMAS
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/27/2010
  40 .  problems with sharpness-lens canon 55-250
I have got a canon 500 D that comes with 18-55mm kit lens. It took me 6 months to decide on what extra lens to buy and finally after reading so much and having great comments about the 55mm-250mm I decided to buy it. I am struggling to get sharp pictures with it. At 55mm I can just about get them sharp but not at 100% but if I go higher than 135 mm the quality gets worse, not really sharp even at 50%. I am talking about handholding the camera. I tried taking a picture of my mother with a camera on a tripod at 250mm with the IS turned off and it was sharp at a 100% . The problem is that I cannot carry a tripod with me when I am with people because they get annoyed having to wait. Do you experience the same problem? If I take a picture at 50mm with my 18-55mm I can get sharp pictures but never as clear as many other people and then I have to crop it to get it enlarged.I would like to do it with the 55-250mm but either the lens are bad, or they are too heavy for me to hold with steady hands. I don't know what I am doing wrong. If I try to get the speed real fast to avoid camera shake but if I get the aperture to 8 or 11 then the shutter speed goes down to 125 and if I get it to 600 then the aperture sometimes goes to 5.6 which is not what I want. I don't seem to be able to set the correct aperture with a fast shutter speed to avoid camera shake. I was wondering what I am doing wrong. I thought maybe I will get a 24-105mmL because they are better lens. All I want is sharpness. Your input would be so appreciated. I can upload some pictures if you think might be helpful Fernanda

10/17/2011 4:22:56 AM

Gregory LaGrange
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gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  I think you need more practice more than anything. Try different hand/arm positions first to see if you can get steadier. Try your left hand under the lens, with your left elbow up against your side, making a triangle shape from your shoulder down to your elbow, up to your hand. Turn your body sideways a little with your left shoulder towards your subject. Almost like holding a rifle.
You don't like using a flash? That would help. If you can get it to 600 at 5.6, you should be okay at 300 f/8. That sounds like outside numbers, not inside.
There isn't that much of a difference in depth of field between f/5.6 and f/8. Is it in the pictures that makes you avoid f/5.6, or is it what you've heard or read about always using the smallest aperture that makes you not want to use f/5.6?

10/17/2011 10:21:42 AM

  Unless I missed it, you never mentioned iso. Have you up'd the iso to increase shutter speed and keep the aperture where you want it?

10/17/2011 11:33:18 AM

 
 
  Happy Duck
Happy Duck
December 2005 - Canon 20D & Canon 70-200mm f/4L lens.
 
 
Hi Fernanda,
Gregory & Bob are right on.
If you do decide to get an L lens, you will be setting yourself up for more $$ investments in the future. L glass is so sharp & can be a bit addictive - its all I shoot with.
The 24-105mm f/4L IS lens is fantastic - lighter than my 24-70mm f/2.8L (no IS) and it is a great lens. Its about $1000 US. Another great lens is the 70-200mm f/4 L (non-IS) & sells for $650 US. This is the best L lens for the price you will find. I had one and it was fantastic. I later sold it to get the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS (which is considerably more $$ & much heavier) as I shoot a lot of low-light concerts & portrait photos. The f/4 version is lighter and I have lots of sharp & beautiful photos I took with that lens.
Practice your technique and if you have the ability to rent lenses locally, try out a couple and see for yourself if they are worth the $$ to you.
Here is a pic I took when practicing my panning technique with the 70-200mm f/4L lens. The face of Happy Duck is sharp while I was using a slow enough shutter speed to show the movement of her wings. The background fall colors reflecting on the water adds a nice look to the image as well :) Its one of the 1st images I shot with my new Canon 20D and its still a favorite.
Love in Light,
Carlton

10/17/2011 11:19:42 PM

  The lens is not the main problem. The problem you have is understanding what settings you need. Make sure that your shutter speed is 1.6 times the focal length you are using. If you are at a focal length of 135 mm, that would give you a shutter of 1/216 sec., so anything from 1/200 sec. up would be good. This will cure the camera movement problem. Make sure the aperture is at f-8.0 and you will clear up the sharpness factor for almost any decent lens. Raise the ISO until thse settings are possible. If the ISO gets too high, you will have to use a tripod or use supplemental lighting. If you are still confused, use Auto ISO and put the camera in program. It will do the rest. Good luck.

10/18/2011 1:53:52 PM

FERNANDA KINGSLEY-THOMAS
BetterPhoto Member

member since: 12/27/2010
 
 
 
Hi Gregory thanks for the suggestion about positioning. I never thought about it. You are absolutely right about my needing more practice. I have only been doing it for 8 months and very infrequently and most of the time with people who are not interested in waiting while you fiddle with the camera. I never thought about using the flash. Will try to use your ideas.
~Bob, most of the time I forget to check the shutter speed and avoid to up the ISO which I know would avoid camera shake because my teachers have always mentioned trying to have lower ISO to avoid noise.
There is one lady in better photo who uses this lens and her pictures are so sharp and have a clarity that I have never managed. I also saw pictures taken buy another photographer on this site who uses only a Canon powershot G9 and the clarity in his pictures are amazing. What gives this extra clarity?
Carlton, thanks so much for your input on the 24-105 mm lens. You also wrote to me when I was thinking of getting the Tamron 18-270mm which I still have not decided because opinions are so varied and sharpness is not great. I just don't want to walk around changing lens. Do you think there is a massive difference between the 18mm and the 24mm. I will try your suggestion of renting different lens. there are shops in London that rent L lens for £50.00 for 3 days. Really good. I am posting some photos I took with the 55-250mm.
Randy I love your very clear and straight to the point suggestion. I will go to the zoo in the next few days with my tripod and spend the day alone practising.
Thanks you so much for your help


10/19/2011 2:08:19 PM

Gregory LaGrange
BetterPhoto Member
gregorylagrange.org

member since: 11/11/2003
  The duck is just blurred a little from movement. One quick thing you can do is use some sharpening with photoshop, or whatever program came with your camera.
Digital cameras has what's called a high pass filter that's in front of the sensor that causes a little softness to photos. Every photo needs a little sharpening added to it. You photo of the bird feeder and the mother looks like the basic sharpening that every photo needs, wasn't done.
So start doing that to your finished photos and you'll see some improvement. If you do ever use another lens, you may see an improvement in sharpness, even if you don't try a L lens. Zoom lenses that have a very wide range of focal lengths like a 55-250, aren't the sharpest anyway. They're convenient because of the range, but it's hard to get a lens with that wide a range to be very sharp. Zooms that have a narrower range, relatively speaking, are usually sharper. It's part of the give and take that happens to practically everything in photography.

10/19/2011 3:40:51 PM

  It's just as I thought. The images where your shutter speed is near or above your focal lenghth are sharp. The one with the cat where the shutter speed is a lot slower than the focal length is blurred due to camera movement. The duck is blurred because it's moving. It's movement at that focal length requires a higher shutter speed. Keep an eye on the focal lenghth and shutter speed relation and you should be good to go.

10/19/2011 5:26:32 PM

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