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Trying to find the best camera to buy? How about finding the best photographic equipment to buy? Read the following questions and answers for help with everything from digital camera ratings and reviews to finding the best film for your old Nikkormat.
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Andrew Tattersall
member since: 11/17/2004
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1
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digital software
I live in Canada and I'm looking for Photoshop CS4. Does anyone have any suggestions where to buy an affordable copy. Andrew T
11/19/2009 10:11:19 AM
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Jeff L. Harwell
Contact Jeff
Jeff's Gallery
member since: 5/16/2008
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2
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Macro Focusing Rails
Does anyone use a macro focusing rail? If so, what kind and do you like it? I love macro work and currently have a Giottos MH7001 head with the 631 quick release long plate, which I thought was good for macro focusing but it's not very smooth. I'm looking at upgrading to a lighter ballhead and tripod for field work (the MT9360 & MH7001 combo is HEAVY). I would appreciate any suggestions on better working macro focusing rails.
11/17/2009 11:27:54 AM
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Hello Jeff,
Macro rails have been on my list for a long time but I always seem to find something else to spend the money on.
I have recently been looking at the Really Right Stuff macro rails - http://reallyrightstuff.com/rrs/items.asp?Cc=MACRO&Bc=
The RRS are very light and look very functional. I may get a RRS macro rail after I upgrade from a 100mm to a 180mm macro lens :)
Good Luck,
Carlton
11/17/2009 11:48:15 AM
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Thanks Carlton! I don't think I've ever posed a question that you haven't answered..lol.. You are a WEALTH of information!! I was actually looking at getting the Giottos MH-1302 ballhead with the MH-656, -657 or -658 quick release plates. They seem to have the ability to make very minor adjustments, which may be all I need at present (and they're lighter than what I have now, plus they aren't terribly expensive). I just bought a house with my girlfriend, so I don't want too cheap, but I can't afford the Really Right Stuff ballheads (yet..haha) - but I will definitely check out their rails. I'm at that point now where I'm all confused - trying to focus on TOO many different areas of photography (close-up, landscape, kids, etc..). I need to narrow my focus, find my niche and get the equipment to support that niche. It's getting very drab here in the Northeast - a lot of the color is gone, so I'm turning my focus to indoor close-up/macro work, which I love anyway. Photography can be so overwhelming sometimes..haha.. Thanks again, Carlton, for all your help!!!!!
11/18/2009 5:28:31 AM
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Focusing rails are very helpful with a stationary subject. I have a very old one that I bought from a guy for 20 bucks. It's not something I would spend a lot of money for unless you will be doing a lot of stationary macro work.
11/18/2009 1:49:12 PM
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Meghan Gonski
Contact Meghan
Meghan's Gallery
member since: 9/7/2007
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3
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Laptops
I havea Dell D620 latitude laptop. It's not very good to see and edit my photos on. I want to by a new laptop. Does anyone have a recommmendation for a type of laptop good for photographers?
I like Windows XP layouts instead of Mac layouts...Thanks!
11/16/2009 6:45:11 PM
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Hi Meghan,
Laptops are not good for editing photos on because of calibration issues and constant lighting changes and even the angle you are viewing the screen can severely affect how an image looks. To perform photo editing, you will need a real desktop machine or attach a monitor that you keep calibrated to ypur laptop.
If I had to choose a laptop, it would be a 17" MacBook Pro as it has a much better layout for using Photoshop. Since switching to MAC 2 years ago, I will never buy another Windoze machine ever again. I went through 3 PC laptops in less than 4 years as they all started out great but quickly declined to the point I couldn't run Photoshop & Bridge at the same time without crashing. Then one thyat was 6 months old had the internal hard drive fail and it ate 800 photos I has just taken before I had a chance to back them up to another external drive. I lost those photos and am still sore over it. My 15.4" MacBook Pro will probably last me 8+ years (as several of my close friends are still using their MBPs that are 8+ years old) and I dont know how long my 24" IMAC will last but this is the machine I would recommend to you. BTW - Apple just released a 27" quad-core IMAC and this is one incredible machine.
If you know anyone with a 24" IMAC, go and play on it for a while and you will see how incredible it is. Plus - you dont have to worry about all the viruses, spyware, and constant updates & firewall crap to protect your machine and even that wont suffice for many Windoze OS. XP=OK, Vista=terrible & the new Windoze 7 has already been ravaged by some terrible viruses that they are still trying to get a handle on.
Please consider a 24" or the new 27" IMAC and 3 months from now, you will be thanking me over & over & over.
Then you can continue using your current laptop for travel, etc..
You cant imagine the joy I experience using my MAC machines. They are fast, easy & NO VIRUSES :D
Good luck with your decision,
Carlton
11/17/2009 1:40:59 AM
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I'll second part of Carlton's message. I switched to a Mac laptop this summer (MacBook Pro 15") after a lifetime of Windows, and am 150% pleased with the both the computer, and especially the screen for my photo editing. (A desktop machine was simply not an option for me, because I now need to edit my photos while on very frequent travel.) Previously I used a Windows (Gateway) laptop, but hooked it up to an external CRT monitor, because the laptop's screen was terrible for displaying accurate colors. Like Carlton, I will not go back to Windows... I only wish I'd made the switch sooner! Good luck!
11/17/2009 4:55:39 AM
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I also use a Mac and agree with everything Christopher and Carlton said. Love my MAC machine and will never go back to Windows.
11/17/2009 11:09:51 AM
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Hi thanks everyone
Carlton, that is one of my main problems right now is the viewing is different from different angles. I have to pick one and stick with it until i'm sore! But I noticed my brothers' Mac has a better viewing range, it looks the same in different angles until a certain point.
I have been thinking of a desktop but I don't know if I' like to be stationary. lol You mentioned a monitor to attach to your laptop, what is that/how it works? are they expensive?
11/17/2009 7:37:26 PM
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You should be able to attach a normal monitor to your laptop with no problem. I have an old Dell laptop that I used to hook up to a desktop monitor. It's not a special monitor if that's what you're thinking.
11/18/2009 1:45:59 PM
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Hi Maghan,
Like Randy stated, you can use any monitor. I used to just leave my monitor cable laying where I placed my laptop so that when I was ready to use it, I could easily attach the cable to the laptop.
You can set up your laptop and configure it for using 2 screens and you can calibrate the external monitor so that it is ready to go whenever you attach the laptop. I used to view my thumbnails in Bridge on my laptop screen and then launch Photoshop on the External monitor for editing my images.
I used this configuration for a couple of years before switching to the IMAC. I also had a base station for my laptop which made all my connections to external hard drives, printers, etc - much easier.
Good luck with your decision Meghan,
Carlton
11/18/2009 6:05:24 PM
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Thanks :)
11/18/2009 7:05:52 PM
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Barbara Helgason
Contact Barbara
Barbara 's Gallery
member since: 1/4/2004
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4
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Flashtube lifespan?
What is the lifespan of a flash tube? I've had the Alien bees B800 flash unit for a couple of years but lately it seems that it is not putting out the same amount of light as it used to. Is that even possible? I assumed a flash tube would just burn out like a regular light bulb, not die a slow death. Do I simply need to replace it or is there something else that I am missing here. The problem started when I moved my unit from my windowless basement to my new studio in an upstairs bedroom where there is lots of natural light. Suddenly I need to use a wide open aperture when using my studio lights. (Alien bees plus my speedlite)
My speedlite seems to have more power that my 800 watts flash unit? I'm confused. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
11/16/2009 5:13:56 PM
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Hi Barbara,
I have used some of the same flash tubes for more than a quarter of a century. So it clearly takes a long time to burn out a tube. I have had one tube just fail, and I have broken one or two. I have not noticed that the power has fallen off. I would assume it has something to do with the new studio; perhaps the walls are darker? I recently tested, for power and spread, a Canon 580 II against a Paul C. Buff White Lighting 1600, and a few other units. The White Lighting, which is about the same power as a Bee 1600, was only about one stop more powerful than the Canon. I found that surprising. One more thing: if you are using the speed light to trigger the Alien Bees, that might not be working. Frankly having the Bees slaved to a camera mounted flash usually doesn’t work. The speed light will usually put out an infrared pulse, just before the strobe is triggered. This often triggers the slaves, making them trigger too soon. The red-eye reduction creates the same sort of problem.
Thanks, John Siskin
11/20/2009 4:04:19 PM
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Thank you, that's very helpful, you've given me alot to think about. I think you might be right about the Bees somehow being triggered too soon, and somehow this is related to the new location. Thanks again, Barbara
11/20/2009 5:09:06 PM
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Hi Barbara,
Problems with syncing speed lights and monolights are very common in my classes. You might want to look at this article for more on sync: www.siskinphoto.com/magazine/zpdf/sync.pdf
Thanks, John Siskin
11/20/2009 5:20:33 PM
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Michael J. Skelton
Contact Michael
Michael's Gallery
member since: 10/17/2009
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Upgrading from D700
Hello everyone,As of now I'm shooting with a D700.Before this I was using the Minolta Maxxum 7. Seeing the direction that Nikon is headed with their prices I was wondering if I would be better off buying the Sony Alpha 900 and using my Minolta lenses instead of waiting for an upgrade to the Nikon D700. Any help or suggestions on the subject would be welcomed. Best of Light !!!
11/14/2009 6:03:53 PM
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One thing to consider is the newer the lens, the better the technology they used to design and build it. I would base my decision on which camera and system I preferred working with. Ergonomics and image quality would be my factors. Yours may differ. In the long run, it's just money anyway. LOL! Good luck with your decision.
11/18/2009 1:54:02 PM
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Flo Bringas
flobringas.com
member since: 12/4/2007
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6
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Indoor High School Sports Photography
I am looking for a lens that will be good for indoor high school sports photography. Typically, high school gyms and pool areas do not have the best lighting. I have a 100-400mm, but it's not fast enough. I am interested in the f/2.8 70-200mm. I went to a local camera store here in Chicago and was told that the f/2.8 70-200mm would not work well for this type of photography. Of course, the lens they suggested instead was the f/2.0 200mm with a price tag of close to $5,000. Any thoughts on the f/2.8 70-200mm? Or any suggestions on a different lens? I appreciate any input!
11/14/2009 4:51:53 PM
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Jeffrey R. Whitmoyer
member since: 1/7/2009
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To my mind, I would sacrifice a stop to have the versatility of the 70-200mm. A fixed focal length lens isn't always going to give you optimum focal length at a sporting event since you have action moving towards and away from you. Basically, you have more framing options with the zoom. Assuming you are using a digital camera, hopefully one that has low noise at high ISO, I would take my chances with the 2.8 70-200mm and pick up the lost stop with an increase in ISO. Depending on the difference in price, you might be able to upgrade your camera body to something with lower noise at the higher ISOs.
Jeff
11/14/2009 5:46:17 PM
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I have the 100-400mm lens, but I do know the 70-200mm F2.8 is a super lens. That's a lot of extra dollars, considering you already have the 100-400mm. Assume you could not bump the ISO a little higher, then use noise software. If $$s aren't a problem, then certainly get the 70-200mm lens.
11/15/2009 4:41:01 PM
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Jeffrey R. Whitmoyer
member since: 1/7/2009
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Ken makes a good point in regards to noise reduction software to help correct for excess noise if it becomes a problem. If you can avoid a major expense until you absolutely need a new piece of equipment, you are always better off to do so, unless you really want a new toy and have the resources to get it. I should have thought of that myself in the original answer.
11/15/2009 5:08:15 PM
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I've done volleyball and basketball in high school gyms, and my best shots have not been with my 70-200 2.8; they have been taken with my $125 50mm 1.8.
SW
11/15/2009 7:41:46 PM
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Thanks for all of your input. I don't necessarily want to spend the extra money, so the alternate solutions were great. I have a 50mm 1.8, so I am going to experiment with that during this weekend's events. Any suggestions on a noise reduction program??
11/16/2009 11:05:45 AM
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Noise Ninja:
http://www.picturecode.com/
11/16/2009 2:46:27 PM
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John W. DeHority
member since: 11/27/2005
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My 70-200 f2.8 IS lens is my lens of choice for indoor sport photography. I have taken thousands of indoor sport shots (mostly volleyball), but some basketball and indoor soccer too. In most gyms I do have to push the ISO to 1600 to get acceptable shutter speeds. F2.8 is addequate for most gyms, depending on how the noise performance of your camera is at higher ISO speeds. If I can get real close to the action I'll occasionally use a 28-70 f2.8 lens. But the 70-200 is my indoor sports workhorse.
11/17/2009 5:56:35 AM
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Michelle T. Hekle
member since: 9/3/2009
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Volleyball and Basketball are very hard to get good pics. Use the 50mm and crop.
I used a 85mm 1.4 and still found it dark at times in a gym. You could rent one at your local camera shop I would think.
I use a 80-200 mm 2.8 for Hockey and Ringette in club arenas and works well.
Pro sports have much better lighting so I think the 70-200 f2.8 would work great there but not in a school gym where lighting is so poor.
I set my lens wide open and speed 320 or faster and Auto ISO (which sometimes goes to 3200) using a D300.
11/17/2009 8:50:58 AM
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I have both lenses, the 70-200mm f2.8L and 100-400mm f4.5/5.6L, and have used them quite a bit. I am much more impressed with image quality from the 70-200, and I feel it has a bit quicker autofocus. I often find myself using the 100-400mm due for its reach when shooting wildlife or outdoor sports, but will always use the 70-200 for weddings due to IQ and that extra stop. Image quality and one stop advantage may still not justify the $$$ for the 70-200 f2.8 depending on how good your final prints need to be. If possible try to borrow/rent one and see. Best of luck with it.
11/17/2009 9:36:36 AM
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If your sensor has a 1.5X magnification factor, you will find 70mm may be too long. I should a lot of high school basketball and volleyball. I use a 50-150 f2.8 lens. Even at 50mm with the 1.5 factor, I have trouble getting what I want in the frame if it's on my side of the court. I typically position myself along the baseline for basketball. I think at 70mm, if you plan on being close to the action, it will prove frustrating. I shoot at 1/250 and f2.8 and bump the ISO to no less than 400 and not over 800.
11/17/2009 2:58:56 PM
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STEVE MOLITOR
member since: 11/10/2009
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7
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What lenses do you recommend for digital?
I have just gone from a Pentax zx-30 film camera to a K7. The lens that I used is a Tokina AT-X-PRO 28-80mm 1:2.8
which I have been told would be a 42-120mm on my K-7? I liked the results on my old film camera with this lens.
My question is that I would like some input on what lenses to purchase on line? I like to take out door shots. I live in the mountains and do a lot of hiking and see some really nice photo opportunities.Also I feel I am beginner to 1 and would like advise on which on line class to take.
Thanks in advance for any input
11/11/2009 12:08:33 PM
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The digital sensor for the K-7 (and other Pentax DSLRs) is smaller than the film frame for 35mm: 15.6mm x 23.4mm v. 24mm x 36mm. Thus the K-7 captures a narrower angle of view with your 28-80 lens than you got with your ZX-30. Your 28-80 f/2.8 is still a terrific lens and it can be used on the K-7, but its focal length range is not as useful. You're right that it is equivalent to using a 42-120 on the ZX-30. To have the same wide-angle to moderate tele range the 28-80 gave you on the film camera requires an 18-50 zoom. Pentax makes a very good SMPC DA* 16-50 f/2.8 ED AL SDM for about $750. (Prices USD at typical online stores) Also very good are the Sigma 18-50 f/2.8 EX DC Macro and Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 XR Di II for $420-$450.
11/12/2009 5:53:40 AM
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STEVE MOLITOR
member since: 11/10/2009
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Jon;
Thank you for your input. Much appreciated. This is the first Q&A that I have used, and I can already tell that I am going to enjoy the better photo.com, and communicating with other photographers.
Thanks again
Steve
11/12/2009 9:25:48 AM
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Buy at least one prime lens. For a hiker and outdoorsman, I suggest the extremely compact DA 21mm f 3.2. It tucks away under the prism housing, and will save a lot of pack space and weight. Photo here:
http://www.dougnelsonphoto.com/-/dougnelsonphoto/detail.asp?photoID=7498741Also, be aware that manual focus Pentax KA series lenses will give you auto aperture operation (use the real control wheel to set aperture), and manual focus with an electronic focus aid. I love the KA 50mm f 1.7 (about $50!) as a 75-equiv lens for picking out parts of a scene.
11/13/2009 11:13:14 AM
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STEVE MOLITOR
member since: 11/10/2009
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Thanks for the info. I really like the size of the DA 21mm f3.2. I forgot how heavy the Tokina was when hiking.
Thanks again
Steve
11/16/2009 9:19:05 PM
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Tara R. Swartzendruber
member since: 3/28/2007
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8
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Help! Monitor Calibration Question
OK, I just calibrated my monitor for the first time (using Spyder3Pro), and it's so dark I feel like I'm going to get real eye strain! Is this normal? It's driving me crazy!
11/11/2009 10:03:23 AM
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Hi Tara,
The first thing to consider is that when you calibrate, make sure the lighting in the room is the same as any other time you are using the computer. If I open a window or change the ambient lighting in my room, I re-calibrate my monitor.
Follow the Spyder3 guide to adjust your monitor settings as recommended. Brightness levels may need adjusting as well.
I keep my room pretty dark, and it stays this way as it is easier for me to see the monitor.
Hope this helps!
11/11/2009 12:27:06 PM
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Tara R. Swartzendruber
member since: 3/28/2007
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yeah, spyder actually didn't like the room lighting too well. I have a big window beside me that I tried to hang a neutral colored sheet over, but I'll have to get some blinds for it. I guess I'm used to things being a lot brighter so I feel like I'm straining. Maybe I need to get my eyes checked.... it just feels so dark!
11/11/2009 1:23:37 PM
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I agree with you, Tara, that things look darker after calibrating than before. But, two things about this: 1. Most monitor makers set the monitor to be bright because the average person likes it that way. 2. But for photographers the best test of your calibration is to compaire it against a good quality print job. That's really what we are all trying to get to anyway. When I first calibrated my monitor I was amazed how off my uncalibrated monitor was to a good print. Now all matches.
11/19/2009 10:03:18 AM
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I found that for me calibrating my monitor works best when I do it in the evening without ambient light.Calibrating in darkness gives the best reading . Then run a test print and see if that works.I hope this helps.
11/20/2009 5:23:24 PM
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Lorena Simon
member since: 10/13/2009
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9
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Need Lightweight Yet Sturdy Tripod
Hi, I have a really good tripod but it is very heavy to carry for hiking with camera, and all the equipment. Can you suggest to me a light but steady tripod for this kind of situations? I have a Nikon D80 camera, and the heaviest lens I have is a 70-210 zoom.
Thanks
11/4/2009 8:13:08 AM
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Take a look at a Monfrotto. I have neen using the the model 3001n for years. I do a lot of hiking.
11/7/2009 6:10:56 PM
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Hello Lorena,
I have a heavier Bogen/Manfrotto 3021 tripod that I mainly use at home and a very light Bogen/Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Carbon Fiber Tripod w/Manfrotto 468MGRC2 Magnesium Hydrostatic Ballhead. The 190CXPRO4 has 4 sectioned legs and collapses down nicely for carrying on one of my camera backpacks. It runs about $324 at Amazon. It is easy to position, sturdy & very light.
I wanted the Gitzo 1541 (also a carbon fiber tripod) but this one runs about $600. The Gitzo with a Really Right Stuff BH-55 ballhead would be my preference but they are not cheap.
I am happy with the Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 w/468MGRC and this combo is cheaper than the Gitzo tripod alone.
If you have the $$ - I would go with the Gitzo/Really Right Stuff combo but otherwise my Manfrotto is a great alternative.
I hike a lot as well and it makes a huge difference when carrying a lightweight tripod and is well worth the investment. I also use a 100-400mm f/4.5L lens I carry on my hikes and it is plenty sturdy on this tripod.
Cheers!
11/7/2009 6:49:04 PM
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Hi Everyone,
Great question, and great tips! Also check out Rob Sheppard's Camera Tripods: An Essential Photo Accessory BetterPhoto Instructor Insights blog.Thanks, Kerry
11/12/2009 1:19:26 PM
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Thanks for the link Kerry.
I lugged my heavy tripod with me everywhere and it is so nice to have the lighter Carbon Fiber tripod now. I love landscapes, waterfalls, slow shutter speeds, more DOF & HDR imaging so my tripod gets a lot of use and I really enjoy getting everything set up and dialed in and the hitting the remote shutter release just knowing my captures will be good :)
I cringe when I hear a photographer say a tripod is too much hassle. I would feel lost without mine.
Have a great day everyone and Lorena, let us know what you get.
Carlton
11/12/2009 4:26:38 PM
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Try this one
11/13/2009 3:12:05 AM
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Stephanie Reed
Contact Stephanie
Stephanie's Gallery
reedphotoimages.com
member since: 4/18/2007
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10
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Comparing advanced point & shoot cameras
I lead a travel group to Europe 1-2x per year with 15-20 high school students in tow. I also travel on my own during the summer/winter breaks. I'm tired of lugging my beloved Nikon D200 around and am in the process of selecting a smaller, more compact camera. I've narrowed it down to the Nikon P6000, Panasonic FZ35, and possibly the Canon G11. Interested in seeing how the BP forum weighs in on those models. Thanks!
11/2/2009 8:03:22 AM
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Lynn R. Powers
member since: 9/12/2006
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I have heard that the FZ35 is excellent.
Being I am going back to film with a medium format camera I also need a decent P&S camera. From what I have read and the photos I have seen the Canon G11 is going to be my choice.Lynn
11/4/2009 1:26:59 PM
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I just bought the Panasonic DMC-FZ35 as a replacement to my DMC-FZ20. So far, so good. It's smaller, quicker, and can do videos with sound (I haven't tried that so can't testify about the quality), and it can also shoot RAW. Only things that I don't like as well, I can't use remote shutter release (there's no jack port, or whatever you call it) and no hotshoe. It's an excellent value with suggested manufacturer's price of $399.
11/4/2009 6:42:56 PM
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Thank you for your responses. All three choices seem to have unique qualities. Might just flip a coin!
11/5/2009 4:48:10 AM
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Lynn R. Powers
member since: 9/12/2006
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Stephanie do not just flip a coin, even when said in jest. Go to a store that has the cameras and handle them to make comparisons. You may not like the viewfinder, LCD, how the controls are situated or handle. As of yet the G11 is not in the stores.
With luck you may find the camera that feels just right for you. It is as important to check each P&S camera as it is an expensive "pro" DSLR.
Lynn
11/9/2009 1:06:15 PM
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Thanks Lynn. That's where I'm having the problem... all of the camera shops in this area have closed. We're stuck with Best Buy and they only carry the Canon. I'm hoping that the Ritz down in Tampa will get the Nikon and Panasonic in stock soon so I can try those.
11/10/2009 4:52:31 AM
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Hi, Stephanie, I was just reading some reviews (I'm considering a small camera for walkin' around) and saw something I had not thought about: Due to the small sensor size, even with the large megapixel image sizes available the pics may be unsuitable for some printing that otherwise would work with a similar-sized DSLR image. I would be interested if anybody has any experience with this. Cheers, RK
11/10/2009 7:36:39 AM
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