BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: How to Choose Studio Lighting

Photography Question 

Lee
 

What Studio Lights?


I am inerested in buying a strobe lighting kit of maybe 2 lights or so. I have read about lighting kits and how to use them, but don't know how to select a good brand and intensity I need. I would like to eventually take portraits and make a little money on the side. any info would be appreciated.


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June 19, 2003

 

Maynard McKillen
  Dear Lee:
I had the chance to use an Alienbees B800 monolight a few months back. Although the brand name is kind of funky, the unit is powerful, lightweight, and the power output is adjustable from full to 1/32nd power using a sliding lever. This makes it easy to fine tune the output to match a specific f/stop you want to use, and is handy when you want to use several lights and ratio their output. A pair of B800s or a B800 and a B400 might form the core of a lighting setup. (See www.alienbees.com)
If you want to look at a powerpack system, one where several flash heads attach to a pack that sits on the floor, you might consider Dynalite or Novatron systems. I mention all three of these brands because I know they are lightweight, and thus fairly portable, I've used all of them and found them reliable, and they each seem to offer a good combination of price and power.
Perhaps other contributors will offer testimonials about these and the many comparable products from other major manufacturers.
I checked ebay while researching studio strobe systems and found far too many obscure brands at very low prices. The monolight systems and powerpack systems were alike in one way: they were low power units barely adequate, in some cases just inadequate, for anything other than tabletop photography of rather small objects.
Check national photographic retailers like B&H and Calumet for the brands they sell, which should begin to give you some idea which brand names have proven themselves.


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June 19, 2003

 

John A. Lind
  I just bought a new set of monolights. Three alternatives I considered in addition to the Alien Bees:

(a) Photogenic PowerLight 1250[DR]
The "DR" version is more expensive, has digital readout and can be used with an accessory remote control. I've used a pair of the "non-DR" units "on location" in the past. These 500 Watt-Second (or Joule) lights are plenty of power for most work on location, although you typically have to run them at full power inside a cavernous church. IIRC, the modeling light is a 250 Watt halogen, which is in the power range needed to begin overtaking ambient light most of the time (allows you to better evaluate light position). They're made in Ohio, quite hardy, very reliable, and among the more popular monolights. One downside is the monoplug trigger cord turns the built-in slave on and off. Plug it in and the slave is disabled; unplug it and the slave is enabled. Another is the replacement flash tube. They're relatively expensive, and come as one unit that includes glass dome, flash tube and modeling light. Great for quick change, but one has second thoughts about tossing the entire unit if only the modeling light is burnt out. The pricing of the analog model (non-DR) is very competitive.

(b) White Lightning X1600 (the newest X-Series)
Made by the same guy in Tennessee who makes the funky Alien Bees lights, Paul C. Buff. The new X-Series include a cooling fan and 250 Watt modeling light. Downside is lack of dome over the flash tube and proximity of it to where bowl reflectors or other light modifiers attach to the face of the unit.

(c) Hensel Integra 500
Made by a German company in Wurzburg, the Hensel lights are relative newcomers to North America and not as well known. They are popular in Europe and the model name for them there is the "Contra E." I classify them as the German equivalent to the Photogenic monolights. Well made, sturdy and reliable, they are also a bit lighter weight. Three reasons I selected a pair of these versus the Photogenic lights:
(1) The built-in slave has a switch on the back panel to turn it On or Off. It is not disabled (or enabled) by the monoplug trigger cord.
(2) 300 Watt halogen modeling light
(3) The flash tube, modeling light and glass dome that covers them are all separate items. Doesn't take that much longer to replace a flash tube or modeling light on location compared to the Photogenic single plug-in unit.
The lights themselves are among the lowest price for power level, build quality and reliability. The one downside is pricing of the light modifiers for them which are comparatively high.

All the above is just one man's opinion of these lights. Sort out what's most important for you which may not be the same as my criteria. IOW, don't select the Hensel lights just because I did.

-- John


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June 24, 2003

 

Josh Hudson
  I have been using lots of gear over the past few years. Lord knows I have bought just about everything and sold it just as fast.

I have also done the "ask the experts" route. The best response was B&H whose answer to the purchase of any monolight that costs under $750 is that "it is a horrible flash and if you are a professional you couldn't possibly do your work with it."

So I am going to give the budget-minded photographer and run down on what I have learned. Some real answers on why you do or don't want some of the flashes out there.

First, let us look at what you need to consider for a flash. POWER, RECYCLE TIME, MODELING LAMP, BUILD, COMPATIBILITY, RELIABILITY. I would add in CONSISTENCY in color tempurature and power output, but that variable in the sub-$300 flashes are so close to each other, that it is hardly worth mentioning.

ALIEN BEES
I won't slam Alien Bees. They are a good flash, with a variable 5-f/stop range for power, and a very fast recycle time. The 100 watt modeling lamp is weak, but not as whimpy as other strobe units in the price range. They are well built and compatible with lots of third party brands for softboxes and extras. Good reliable lights-- but the problem with Alien Bees is the great white hype. So many people worship these lights over all others, and that is a shame, because it causes people to pay more than they need to for other flashes that work just as well (and sometimes better).

FLASHPOINT
This East German flash has come to the USA under different names. I bought mine when they were B.Osh. For $50 less than the 160 ws Alien Bee you can buy a 600 ws Flashpoint II. It has a 250 watt modeling light, with an incredibly sturdy build and the same 5-f/stop variable power range. Incredbily consistant lighting. So why isn't this flash THE flash to get? Well, first, bad marketing. YOu can only buy the flash from Adorama anymore. Second, they are tanks. You will not be throwing these flashes in the bag to lug about at 6lbs each. Finally, the recycle time is about 3 seconds at full power.

But if you are moving the flashes about and aren't into rapid shootings, you really should look into these strobes.

PATERSON INTERFIT COLORFLASH AND STELLAR
You may not know Paterson here in the states, but they are big in their home in the UK. But you have to know what you are buying.

The INTERFIT COLOR FLASH is not the same flash as the STELLAR. First, the COLORFLASH is a totally different design. The attachments are proprietary to Paterson, whil ethe STELLAR are actually built off the bowens flash design.

The COLORFLASH is also a much poorer design. It has a 4-f/stop variable range, 60 watt modeling light and although it has an average recycle time of 1.4 seconds listed, it is actually more like 3 seconds at full power. But most of all, the flashes are as sturdy as JTLs, which isn't at all. The store I checked them out at, kept talking about how they kept popping and smoking on clients. (Not an endorsement).

Meanwhile, the Stellar lights are exactly the opposite. Metal instead of plastic. Rubberized case. The 300 ws flash is the same as the 160ws Alien Bee with a comperable recycle time (well 1 second versus 1/2 second). The 150watt modeling light is halogen instead of the other modeling lamps which are incandescent (which means more lumens). Unlike the other strobes, they have a optical AND an IR slave built in.

JTL MOBILIGHT 300

Ok. On the surface, all fo the JTL lights look like the best deal going. Not only are they AC/DC so you can use a battery system, but they are inexpensive, and portable. But that is where the good times end. IF I thought the Paterson COLORFLASH was highly breakable, the JTLs threaten to explode if you look at them too hard. They also have an incredibly slow recycle time, but who cares when chances are the first time your flash touches the ground it will explode like a Ford Pinto.


I haven't had any first hand experience with other sub-$300 flashes or I would write more. When I get a chance to play with the Photogenic Studiomax lights I will add on to this thread.

But for what it is worth, my assesment seems to fall down to Alien Bees being good flashes with good reps, but the best value goes to the Paterson Stellar lights.


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October 07, 2005

 
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