BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: New Answers

Photography Question 

BetterPhoto Member
 

Best film for a wedding?


Hi there, I'd really appreciate your advise on this!
I'm shotting a wedding with another friend, he's doing colour, and I'm doing black and white.
I was just wondering what you would advise is the best film to use, I guess I need low grain, for blowups etc, but I also really love the grainy 1930's look (I've used Iilford xp 400 in the past, and blown it up, grainier than a desert!)

Also, could you please explain to me what "Pushing" you film means, I have been advised by a number of people to use ISO200, and "Push" it to achieve the grain I want... what exactly does this mean?

Thank you so very much!
Steve


To love this question, log in above
July 08, 2002

 

John A. Lind
  Kodak Tri-X Pan:
An ISO 400, true B&W film, it's been around for decades and is relatively grainy. Its round grain is a little softer with more graceful degradation of image detail into its grain compared to the harshness of the newer tabular grain (T-grain) films (e.g. TMax 100 or 400). Tri-X also has a very wide latitude, is very forgiving of exposure error as a result, and is noted for its smooth tonal range in the mid-tones (mid-tones aren't "muddy" looking). Developed and printed properly it renders a "classic" look with some of the graininess you want and is one of the reasons many still use it for portraiture. I recommend shooting it at its rated speed (ISO 400). See my remarks about push processing and wedding photography to understand why.

Pushing Film:
Pushing a film is shooting it at an exposure index (EI) faster than its rated ISO speed. "Push 1" means twice as fast, "Push 2" means four times as fast, etc. It is deliberately underexposing the entire roll of film. You must shoot the entire roll at the same EI. When it's developed you *must* ask for push processing and tell the processor how much it was pushed (P-1, P-2, etc.). The developing time will be adjusted to compensate for how much the film was pushed. You pay a premium for the film processing (usually about $3 - $4 per roll) as it must be done separately from normal processing. I don't know of any consumer labs that can do push processing. Most wouldn't know what you're asking for either. It requires a full-service pro lab to do push processing. Aside from increasing grain, it also decreases latitude and increases contrast. This is **definitely**not** something I recommend doing for a wedding shoot!!

Wedding Considerations:
I just helped a friend shoot a very large wedding yesterday. Their attire was a wedding photographer's nightmare! The bride wore a traditional pure white dress with white beads, lace and sequins. The maids of honor (two of them) and all her attendants along with the groom, best man and all his attendants wore pure black. Why the nightmare? Exposure error can either "blow out" the bride's dress leaving no detail in it or make the pure black attire look like cavernous black blobs with zero detail. Wider latitude film with a lower contrast level helps avoid this. It's a specific characteristic of professional color portrait films (Kodak Portra 160 and 400, or Fuji NPS and NPH). It's also why I recommended Tri-X and shooting it at its rated speed (ISO 400) for the B&W's.

I assume you're not in the professional wedding photography business, and that this wedding (ceremony and reception) is indooors. Your posting didn't make it clear one way or the other. If so, one of your major problems in doing this shoot will be light: being able to create enough of it. and have enough reserve in your flash that it recovers very quickly for the next shot. It's also a reason I recommended Tri-X (ISO 400). If you haven't shot weddings before I have an on-line tutorial geared for helping the non-professional survive it:
http://johnlind.tripod.com/wedding/

-- John


To love this comment, log in above
July 08, 2002

 

John A. Lind
  Steve,
Forgot about this before hitting the "send" key. One additional film to consider *if* (and only if) you need to shoot some during the ceremony using only available light. ISO 400 Tri-X is very marginal for this at best. I did this once and it was a nightmare running 1/30th second shutter speed with a 50mm lens wide open at f/1.4. For available light inside a church or synagogue consider using Kodak's TMax P3200 and shooting it Push-1 at EI 1600 (*don't* use it Push-2 at EI 3200).

TMax P3200 actually has an approximate ISO 800 rating (hence the "P" in "P3200"). It is a multi-speed film that Kodak specifically designed for pushing. At EI 3200 (Push-2) it is contrasty which is OK for some things but not weddings. At EI 1600 it has the approximate granularity of Tri-X and Push-1 opens up the film's latitude making it less contrasty. I've had good results using this film recently for shooting a local monthly "blues jam" using only available light from a relatively poorly lit "stage." Inside a church or synagogue, available light using EI 1600 will likely end up with exposures done using 1/60th shutter speed at f/2.8 or f/4 depending on how brightly lit it is. Focus accuracy will be critical with a lens that wide open. 1/60th should be enough to freeze nearly all motion during a wedding ceremony. If it's a daytime event and there are a lot of windows with plenty of indirect daylight coming through them it might allow you to stop the lens down more or increase the shutter speed.
Again, I would only use this for shooting available light B&W's during a ceremony.

-- John


To love this comment, log in above
July 08, 2002

 

Jeff S. Kennedy
  I second John's recommendations. Tri-x is a good film (but it has grain issues if that bothers you for enlargements). Kodak's Tmax films or Ilfords Delta films (my preference) are very good. If you have plenty of light one of the best (and finest grained) films you can use is Ilford PanF ISO 50. Great tones and fine grain.

At my weddings I usually use Delta 3200 (at ISO 1600 if I can get away with it)for the ceremony and low light candids. When there is decent light I use Delta 400 or Kodak Portra 400BW. I don't worry too much about grain because on those rare occasions when big enlargements are needed I shoot medium format so grain is not a problem. For the most part, though, enlargements seldom exceed 8x10. Albums are the norm so 8x10 is about the max you need.


To love this comment, log in above
July 08, 2002

 

Jeff S. Kennedy
 
 
BetterPhoto.com Photo Contest Finalist   The Ring Bearer
The Ring Bearer
Ilford Delta 3200 @ ISO 1600

Jeff S. Kennedy

 
 
BTW, here's a sample of an image shot with the Delta 3200 from a recent wedding I shot.

(this is the first time I've uploaded an image here so we'll see it I screw it up or not) ;-)))


To love this comment, log in above
July 08, 2002

 
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here

Report this Thread