 Danea Burleson |
Camera Woes, any recomendations on where to go fro Hi, it's been a while since I've been on. Last Oct my Minolta 5D stopped working and I was heart broken. I have always been able to capture amazing photos with this camera. I took this opportunity to upgrade to the new Sony Alpha 350. What a mistake! Not sure if I got a lemon but I am very unhappy with the photo quality. My main issues, taking indoor shots in a well lit room, or even outdoor shade on a sunny day requires the camera to be set at ISO 1600. This is the only way for me to stop motion and it ridiculous! I have tried every setting I can think of in hopes that it was user error to no avail. I never once had these issues with the 5D! The quality at ISO 1600 is terrible to say the least. Since I am starting a natural light photography business I need good quality shots and I couldn't sell any of the images I am getting. Then on top of that the white balance is hit and miss regardless of settings and again I have experimented with them all. I shoot RAW which helps some but you can only do so much to save an image. To make a long story short, I had it sent into Sony and of course they have found nothing wrong with it. GRRR! We have had Minolta cameras for years and have always been extremely happy with the quality so it would be great to buy a new body that is compatible with my lenses but I am now at a loss on what to do. Have my 5D fixed or invest in a new body. If so which one? Or should I just leave Sony/Minolta behind and go with Nikon or Cannon, not that I have the money right now but sometime down the road. This is just so disheartening! Any advice is welcome. Thanks,
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Jon Close |
ISO does not vary in any significant way between digital cameras. There is no inherent problem with the A350 that would necessitate shooting at higher ISO to get the same motion-stopping shutter speeds you got with the 5D. Are you using the same lens(es) with the A350 that you used with the 5D?
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Danea Burleson |
Yes I am. My main and favorite lens right now is my 50mm. The highest I have had to go in the same room is ISO 800 on a cloudy day. Just yesterday I shot my son on his rocking horse with my husbands Maxxum 7D, identical setting as Christmas morning and got some great shots at ISO 400 and then when he really got rocking ISO 800. Christmas morning again, same lighting I had to shoot ISO 1600 and even ISO 3200 with the alpha 350 to stop motion and the quality of the shots makes them virtually unusable. I just don't get it.
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Jon Close |
Something is different. If the same lens, same ISO and same aperture set on the lens (same exposure mode), then you should get the same shutter speed regardless of camera.
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Danea Burleson |
Exactly! That is what I have been saying. Unfortunately Sony is saying the camera is fine and I am now stuck with it or I have to pay who knows what(I won't find out until Friday) in restocking fees. Or sell it on Craigs list. LOL. I just have no idea what to do now and just want a decent camera again! UGH! Thanks for your response Jon. Oh how I wish someone could just tell me I'm a moron and need to click "this" button and all would be fine...hahaha. ;)
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Jon Close |
Wild guess - By any chance is there a polarizing filter on your lens that wasn't there when used on the other camera? That would cut the light entering the lens by about 2 stops, which is the difference your seeing. Otherwise, I'm stumped.
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Danea Burleson |
There is, but it's been on the lens for years, more to protect the lens then anything else. I'll be picking my camera up this week and then my husband and I will shoot side by side to do a comparison. I'll post the results after we're able to do this. Any other guesses, maybe you'll hit on something I haven't thought of! :)
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Nick Jones |
Hi Danea, I know you said you've tried every setting you can think of, but have you tried resetting the camera? It's possible you inadvertently changed a setting you haven't returned to. There might be an option in the menus or something you have to press with a pin underneath the camera. Have a look in the manual. I'm not holding my breath as Sony have checked it out, but just a maybe. Nick.
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Danea Burleson |
Hi Nick, I had not tried resetting. My husband just made the comment that hopefully if it was a setting issue then maybe Sony reset it all before doing their testing on it. So maybe, just maybe if something was off then when I pick it up, I'll be in luck and all will work fine. Crossing my fingers! Now I'm anxious to see if this may have been the problem so I think I might make the trip to go get it right now. Note: DH is a pessimist so it was refreshing to hear an encouraging statement come from him...LOL.
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Pete H |
Danea, It is not often I will offer a opinion on a camera, but this is one of the few times I will. I looked at your gallery; you have a good eye..I think you would benefit greatly from a better camera. There are a host of reasons. If you don't want to read reviews I will cut to the chase and tell you to get another camera other than the 350. This camera is a fine example of "more mega pixels does ot a camera make." At 14 MP, the 350 has terrible resolution..There are 6mp cameras that will produce better results. My advice? Start looking into Canon and Nikon..Their sensor technology coupled with propriatary processing algorithms are far and away better than (most) prosumers currently on the market. Pete
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Danea Burleson |
Thanks Pete, Unfortunately I learned the hard way about the pixels. I have NO complaints about the quality of shots taken by my 5D 6mp camera! I upgraded knowing that many clients may want larger prints and I wanted to make sure the quality would be there. It is not with the Sony a350. Sigh. I know nothing about Canon or Nikon and have never held or tested either as I have been a Minolta user for many years now. I understand I will have to check them out to see what feels the best for me, but I was wondering if you could recommend where to start with which camera bodies for either company. Money is tight so I can't go pro right away. But I do want/need a great quality entry level camera. Besides I am a believer in that it's the photographer that makes a great shot and not necessarily the camera...haha.
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Pete H |
“It is not with the Sony a350. Sigh.” I wasn’t sure if you could get your money back or not? In the Canon line I’d suggest the 50D or the 450D. Much of course depends on the budget. The 50D has had some probs, but I think they have been addressed now. In Nikon, one of the best (in my opinion) is the D-300 when I look at value Vs features & quality. Priced at $1700, I find it a bargain. The D-3 if you can afford full frame. What we are seeing in the past year or two is some serious thought finally going into sensor design, processing algorithm engines and ergonomics. Some of the lesser known camera companies are still lagging behind, where as Canon & Nikon are taking design and feature cues from working pros. These two companies are leading the pack in building “prosumer” cameras that can be pressed into professional use in both quality and feature sets. It is impossible to tell you which company makes the best. There is no best and any differences in the two companies are minute at best when comparing similar price ranges. It usually comes down to how they feel in your hand or lenses that you already own that are compatible with one or the other. One thing I do harp on is lenses. Never, ever scrimp on the glass. I’ve seen cheap lenses on expensive cameras. They cripple the camera. If I had a Ferrari, I would not put re-tread tires on it. Personally, when I buy a camera I look at many criteria. Other than image quality which should be obvious, I look next to longevity or how well built it is. Nothing worse than a shutter that can’t hack 100,000 cycles or a body that allows dust and moisture in. Even amateur shooters can be physically rough on their cameras, so get a good solid body. There seems to be a rather large leap from sub $1,000 DSLR’s to the mid range ($1,200 to $2,000) This leap is well worth the extra money a amateur should spend if they have passed the point & shoot skill level. Not only do these mid price range cameras offer better sensor design (image quality), they also have feature sets that stop the cry “gee I wish I had a button for this.” You are correct that the photographer creates the image; but if the paint brush is the wrong size or the easel is flimsy, I won’t enjoy painting any more. All the best, Pete
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John G. Clifford Jr |
I would bet $100 that there is absolutely nothing wrong with this camera, and the error is completely operator error. You have configured the camera so that it isn't doing what you want it to do. Re quality versus Canon or Nikon, dPreview.com reports the A350 outresolves the Canon EOS 450D and the Pentax K20D, and A350 owners rave at the quality. I own the Pentax, so if the A350 outresolves it, it is one SHARP camera. I'll go out on a limb (not really) and make another statement: no one can look at a properly-exposed 16" x 20" photo from any of the 12 to 16 MP cameras shot at ISO 800 or under and tell you which camera made it. Here's my question: why on EARTH is the camera changing the ISO setting? Disable that, and set the ISO you want... then GET OUT of program mode and shoot in aperture-priority auto exposure mode. You understand, of course, that given the same lighting conditions, all cameras will give the same shutter speed and aperture (within a stop) if set to the same ISO. This is just basic photography, so if you are shooting at ISO 1600 it's because you are choosing to (or not choosing NOT to). You can stop it at any time! You have the power! In short, you don't need a different camera to take beautiful pictures. Perhaps you might want to go to the Sony discussion forum over at dPreview.com (http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.php?forum=1037) and repeat your question. You're sure to find a knowledgeable A350 owner who can quickly steer you straight.
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Pete H |
"Re quality versus Canon or Nikon, dPreview.com reports the A350 outresolves the Canon EOS 450D and the Pentax K20D, and A350 owners rave at the quality" "When comparing a 14.2 Megapixel DSLR against one with 10.1 Megapixels, you'd assume there'd be a significant difference in resolved detail, but as our 100% crops below reveal, there's arguably no more real-life detail recorded with the A350 kit than there was with the Canon 400D / XTi kit. (http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Sony_Alpha_DSLR_A350/outdoor_results.shtml) "Surprisingly, the Sony A350 has been equipped with a CCD sensor and not the CMOS image sensor. I really would have expected to find the same CMOS inside as that of the Nikon D300." (http://www.letsgodigital.org/en/camera/review/163/page_1.html) "Experienced DSLR shooters know that megapixels don't tell the whole story, and the A350 confirms this. In Pop Photo Lab tests, the A350's APS-sized 14.2MP sensor delivered less detail (average 2150 lines of resolution at ISO 100-800) than the 12.2MP Sony A700 (2280 lines). Resolution was significantly below the 2350 lines of the Pentax K20D at ISO 100, and nearly the same as the Pentax at ISO 6400 with noise reduction on. (Indeed, the Sony captured detail on par with the 10.1MP Canon EOS 40D.)" (http://www.popphoto.com/cameras/5234/camera-test-sony-alpha-350.html)
"and A350 owners rave at the quality." Sorry John, but I have to differ here in one regard. Camera labs are better equipped to make image quality determinations than "owners." I find no evidence that the A350 out resolves anything.
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Pete H |
"no one can look at a properly-exposed 16" x 20" photo from any of the 12 to 16 MP cameras shot at ISO 800 or under and tell you which camera made it." If the 16x20 was shot by the A350
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Danea Burleson |
"Here's my question: why on EARTH is the camera changing the ISO setting? Disable that, and set the ISO you want... then GET OUT of program mode and shoot in aperture-priority auto exposure mode. You understand, of course, that given the same lighting conditions, all cameras will give the same shutter speed and aperture (within a stop) if set to the same ISO. This is just basic photography, so if you are shooting at ISO 1600 it's because you are choosing to (or not choosing NOT to). You can stop it at any time! You have the power!" John, Thanks for your response, I want nothing more for you to be correct in that it is something I am doing wrong. I must not have made myself clear. I shoot completely in manual, occasionally in a-priority. The camera is not changing the ISO setting to 1600, I am. Why? Because in the same light setting my 5D or DH's 7D will take a great motion stopping image at ISO200-800. The A350 must be pushed to ISO 1600 simply to stop motion, and I'm talking just a simple blink of an eye, which any lower ISO catches the blur of the eye lid. I do not WANT to shoot at ISO 1600. So in this case, this camera is not giving me the same readings when set at the same ISO in the same lighting conditions as other cameras. Thus my posted problem. I have tried the auto settings also. In a brightly natural lit room, full auto makes the flash pop up, which would normally not be considered necessary by other cameras. Now if you can explain or have any ideas as to what my camera may be set at that is causing this issue you would be relieving a great deal of my stress! :) My hope is that maybe I did hit something by accident and Sony reset everything to default and this problem will go away. Pete: Thanks again for spending so much time on my question. Had I only saw those reviews prior to this purchase! I did read many reviews and noted that most consumers seemed to be those that wouldn't most likely take advantage of auto settings and not shoot in manual. I was also bothered a bit at the lack of reviews, I guess I just didn't know where to look. I definitely learned this lesson the hard way. I have a feeling my best bet may be to sell this camera, use my husbands 7D for the time being and save for a Canon or Nikon. This will mean new lenses also so it may take a while, not to mention I am almost 7 months pregnant so business building(I planned on spending the next year portfolio building and word of mouth advertising, so that after the baby got settled into a routine I could put some undivided attention into building a business) may be on hold for a little while do to my RA and past pregnancy complications. ;) I have book marked the links you posted and will refer back to them when I have a different camera in mind. Again, thank you all so much. I will update when I get my camera back in hopes I may have some good news. But honestly, I am not holding my breath. ;)
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John G. Clifford Jr |
Danee, I guess I don't understand how a shutter speed of, say, 1/500 at f/8, can't stop apparent motion of an eyelid. I do have one idea that you may want to look at, though. Here's a quick question: do you have the in-camera image stabilization turned off, or on? If it's on, turn it off and see if that makes a difference. I find that, with the Pentax K20D's image stabilization, I have to really be careful to look in the viewfinder and WAIT for the 'stabilization' icon to stop flashing before I take my shot, otherwise I get a slightly blurry image. I have learned to leave image stabilization off unless I'm shooting at very low shutter speeds and really need the extra help... and then I force myself to wait until the icon stops flashing before I finish squeezing the shutter. Image stabilization is a no-no when using a tripod, and generally when the light is good enough to get a fast shutter speed you don't need it and it can only cause blurring... so keep it off unless you absolutely need it and then keep the tip above (ensuring the camera is 'steady' before taking the picture) in mind. And, Pete, I do believe the D300 is a nice camera... but I would take that bet in a heartbeat. While I think it does many things better than the K20D (AF and TTL flash exposure), image quality at the same exposure from ISO 100 to 800 will be indiscernable given the photographer can do HIS job. Even a camera like the D700 will only have an image quality advantage at high ISOs and under low light conditions, and below ISO 400 the viewer won't be able to tell.
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John G. Clifford Jr |
BTW, I did a quick look at the DxO Labs website and compared the Sony A350, Pentax K20D, and Nikon D300 in terms of image quality. The quick summary: the D300 gets a 1% edge because it has slightly greater dynamic range. The K20D outperforms it at high ISOs. The A350 outperforms it in terms of color depth. In other words, there is so little difference in what the sensor captures that there effectively is no difference... and post-processing will make a far bigger difference than the choice of camera here. Here's the link so you can check it out yourselves: http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Image-Quality-Database/Compare-cameras/(appareil1)/217%7C0/(appareil2)/213%7C0/(appareil3)/295%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Sony/(brand2)/Pentax/(brand3)/Nikon
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