BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: New Answers

Photography Question 

Vadim Boriskevich
 

Guide Number for SB-600


I'm looking an easy way to quickly get a correct guide number for my Nikon SB-600.
I saw those formulas in the booklet that comes with this flash. I thought there could be an easier way to figure this out.
I'll be shooting this Sunday on my wife's birthday. Nikon D80, NIKON 50MM F/1.4D AF LENS, SB-600 with Gary Fong Cloud diffuser.

Option 1: On the sunny deck in the afternoon.
Option 2: Inside the house, where we have bright yellow walls.

In my D80, I'm using FV lock option with a FUNC button. It measures and lock the flash exposure. Then, every photo I take, the flash doesn't fire before the photo is taken.
This setting should also communicate the correct flash exposure value from camera to the SB-600 unit, so then I don't need to set the guide in the SB-600 (1/1 or 1/32) for every shot ?
If that is correct, then if I change the distance to the subject, the same flash exposure will be used in all other shots ? I see an issue here..
I'm planning to use an AUTO flash mode with Red Eye Reduction for inside or outside shots.

Any tips are appreciated.

Thanks.


To love this question, log in above
June 17, 2008

 

W.
 
Hi Vadim,

the GF diffuser is useless outside, because there is nothing to bounce off of. Worse than useless, because it cuts your flash' range to a 1/4.
the GF diffuser is useless INside YOUR house too, because your 'bright yellow walls' will thoroughly ruin the color temperature.

I don't have a D80+SB600 combo, but all modern camera/flash gun combos – if correctly set – communicate the correct flash exposure value from camera to the flash gun, so you don't need to change settings for every shot.

"1/1 or 1/32", etc. refers to the SB600's power output. Relative to its Guide Number. You had better stay at 1/1 for now, and let the processors do the thinking.

"If you change the distance to the subject, the same flash exposure will be used in all other shots?"
No. The AF measures your distance-to-subject, and the processor adapts the SB600's output (power, duration) accordingly. Always within the flash gun's max. range, of course.

Have fun!


To love this comment, log in above
June 17, 2008

 

Cathy Barrows
  I had a SB-600 (or should I still have but don't use) because it nerver put out enough flash power to properly light up any object. Have you used the flash before and had good results?


To love this comment, log in above
June 17, 2008

 

Alan N. Marcus
  Hi Vadim,

Calculating a guide number for a flash is easy.

In surrounds similar to your shoot location, position your subject 10 feet from the camera. Shoot a series of exposures, each at different apertures (f/numbers) select the best shot based on exposure. Note the aperture that was used. To calculate an accurate guide number, multiply aperture used times subject-to-flash distance. Example: Best frame shot at f/16. Distance flash-to-subject 10 feet. Thus 16 x 10 = 160. This is your calculated guide number. You perform this exercise with the camera set at a specific ISO value. You can carry out this excurse at any ISO setting and you may choose a different distance so long as you don’t exceed the effective range of the flash.

Once the guide number has been established, during the shoot, estimate subject-to-flash distance. Divide guide number by distance to obtain a suitable f/number setting.

Assume guide number is 180 and subject-to-flash distance is 15 feet then:
180 ÷ 15 = 12. Set camera aperture at f/12. Likely this value must be rounded to nearest f/number, likely you must round to f/11.

Modify guide number:

Should a guide number prove continually off by under or over exposing.

Multiply guide number by 0.70 to adjust + 1 f/stop
Multiply guide number by 1.4 to adjust – 1 f/stop

Best of luck,
Alan Marcus (marginal technical gobbledygook)
ammarcus@earthlink.net


To love this comment, log in above
June 17, 2008

 

Vadim Boriskevich
  WS,

I'll test the GF outside, and will point the SB-600 directly to the subject, since there is nothing to bounce off.
Also, I will try it with a buil it flash on my D80.
You're right about he bright yellow walls, I always had an issue when shooting with previous camera - F100.
I guess when you're saying "flash gun combo" - you mean bult in flash, rigth ?

Hi Cathy,
I haven't used SB-600 yet, only testing in my hotel room now.
I previously owned teh Sunpack and it was giving good results.


Alan,

Thank you for the detailed explanation.
I have Flash output level on my SB-600: 1/64, 1/32, ..... 1/1.
I can't follow this Guide number table for some reason, page 35:
http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/Speedlights/SB-600.pdf

What does this mean: 40.0/131.2 ?
If my lens is 50mm and my output level on the flash is set to 1/1, what does 36.0/118.1 represents ?
Thank you.


To love this comment, log in above
June 18, 2008

 

Alan N. Marcus
  Hi again Vadim,

To the rest of the world the US and Liberia are pretty stupid. Seems only these two continue to use the English system of feet in inches. The remainder of the world uses the more logical metric system.

Page 35 explained.

Your flash unit is able to accommodate different fields of view. When the flash field of view is more concentrated, at the longer zoom positions, the flash is brighter thus the guide number is greater for 85° (40/131) vs. 14° (14/46). You can round these values. It is dim-witted to work and publish 45.9 so we round to 46. (Guide number aren’t that accurate anyway)

Look at 40/131 – the fist number is posted for those folks that use the metric system. The second number is for those folks that use the English system.

Consider a subject 10 feet flash-to-subject. That’s 120 inches ÷ 39.37 = 3.05 meters. So English 131 ÷ 10 = f/13.1 – whereas metric 40 ÷ 3.05 = f/13.1 (same answer)

This is a table based on the geometry of circles (the lens is circular). To modify a guide number + 1 stop we multiply by 0.70 to modify + ½ stop we multiply by 0.84 to modify – ½ stop we multiply by 1.2 – to modify – 1stop we multiply by 1.4.

Nobody said it’s easy!

Alan Marcus (marginal technical gobbledygook)
If not clear email and I will tell you more.
ammarcus@earthlink.net


To love this comment, log in above
June 18, 2008

 

Alan N. Marcus
  Perhaps a better explanation of the ISO sensitivity factors bottom of page 35:

The guide numbers are provided for ISO 100 only. Should you choose to use a higher or lower ISO you are directed to use the ISO sensitivity factors to calculate the Guide number revision.

Example for a flash zoom head position 50° the published Guide Number is 118.1 additionally this value is for a camera setting of ISO 100.

Should you choose to shoot with a camera setting of ISO 200 you must calculate a revised Guide number. To accomplish you multiply the published value of 118.1 times 1.4 thus 118.1 x 1.4 = 129.9 (I suggest rounding to 130.

Should you choose to shoot at ISO 400 the factor is 2 thus the math 118.1 x 2 = 236.2

Should you choose to shoot at ISO 50 the math is 118.1 x 0.71 = 83.8

Nobody said it’s easy. Now you know why I call this stuff technical gobbledygook.

Alan Marcus


To love this comment, log in above
June 18, 2008

 

Vadim Boriskevich
  Alan,

I got this mathematics, but it'll be difficult to calculate it for every shot.
I'll set my flash mode on the cmaera, and then set the Flash for i-TTL fill.
Let you know next week how my photos will come out.
Thanks.
Vadim.


To love this comment, log in above
June 19, 2008

 
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here

Report this Thread