 Cheryl Flood |
Need help on zoom lens features Nikon Nikkor I have a Nikon D70S along with the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 lens, as well as the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8. I love both lenses for different reasons, but would like to be able to stand back a bit to shoot photos of my subjects rather than be right in their face. So I need a telephoto/zoom type lens. I'm considering the following two lenses, but am unsure. Typically I'm shooting photos of my kids at play, soccer and tball games, or portraits, so mainly outside activity. Any insight into a decent lens that won't break the bank, but that will do the job? I'm not a pro, but I do try my best to shoot decently. I don't want a crappy lens, but on the other hand, I can't afford "top O the line" either. 1. Nikkor 70-300mm f/4-5.6D ED AF OR 2. Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR
|
|
|
|
||
|
Pete H |
Cheryl, Either lens will give acceptable results once you understand their limitations. Neither lens is particularly "fast." This is not a problem as you will find yourself using a higher ISO when hand holding. The (VR) lens is great for static subjects when you need to hand hold at slower shutter speeds. If you are shooting action, (i.e sports) the VR aspect has little benefit. The VR is no doubt more expensive, but I am sure there are times when you will want it. By the way, Nikon's 50mm 1.8 is probably their best kept secret. When you consider the cost of that lens Vs it's optics; it is a steal! All the best, Pete
|
|
|
|
||
|
Alan N. Marcus |
Hi Cheryl. Your hearts desire is to use a longer lens to allow you to step back as you compose portrait shots. This is a good thing because when you work too close, facial distortions creep in. Your subject has a mental picture of what they look like that is derived from their view (prospective) as seen in their make-up/shaving mirror. To best duplicate this depiction you need to use a specific range of lens focal lengths. The actual focal length is a value derived mathematically based on the size of the finished image and the viewing distance to be utilized. In short there are lots of variables. Some of the variables will generally unknown at the time of the session. Alas, all we can do is follow a “rule-of-thumb. Additionally, photography is both an art and a science so you are free to violate some or all of the conventions and go your own way. Let’s explore: Now it is generally agreed that using a normal lens as described above yields facial distortions because the photographer is forced to work in too close. It is generally accepted that the choice lens for portraiture is one that is about 2.5 to 3 times longer than the normal. Such a lens forces the photographer to step back when they compose. This combination duplicates the prospective of the make-up mirror view. It greatly minimizes the cry, I don’t photograph well or the camera sure lies. In your case this works out to be a rounded range of focal lengths that fall between 28.4 x 2.5 = 70mm and 28.4 x 3 = 85mm. This Math suggests that you should be using your camera set somewhere between 70 and 85mm, for portrait work. Your Tamron at the top end of the zoom should do a flawless job. You can mount a longer lens, it that’s your hearts desire, but beware. Too long a lens will cause compression, a distortion whereby the nose and ears are rendered to appear too close together. This occurs when the camera to subject distance becomes too elongated. That’s my advice, take it or leave it. Alan Marcus
|
|
|
|
||
|
Cheryl Flood |
Alan, thanks for your input. The 50mm prime is a great deal. I found it hard to believe that a $100 lens would create decent photos, but was glad I took a chance (based on reviews). TOTALLY worth every penny! Pete, thanks for all the technical information (I confess to skimming to the part where you "cut to the chase", lol, but appreciate you taking the time to explain how one gets to that conclusion.) I agree, that my current lenses are more than adequate for portraits, and when doing portraits inside, they will definitely be my choice (as the telephotos I'm looking at are too slow for indoor work without a flash, which I prefer not to use when doing portraiture.) In general, I really need the telephoto lens for being able to capture my children at play or in games without my actually being underfoot, ruining spontenaeity (sp?) (not to mention the infeasibility of actually getting ON the field to shoot photos.) Thus the need for a telephoto where I can stand on the sidelines (whether at a game or at the park/home) and get some candid shots of children unaware of me taking them. So I guess I correct myself - that's the main reason I need a telephoto - to get candid shots from a distance.
|
|
|
|
||
|
Cheryl Flood |
Sorry - I mixed your names up!!
|
|
|
|
||
|
This old forum is now archived. Use improved Forum here
Report this Thread |
||