 Penelope N. Dolin |
How to shoot snow and ice A situation that has consistently posed a struggle for me is shooting snow or ice or some other withe surface with high reflection. I am going to the snow festival in Sapporo Japan in a few weeks and would like to take full advantage of the situation. My previous attempts at shooting ice sculptures end up either too blown out or too flat. Any advice or help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Ibarionex R. Perello |
The brightnest of the subject is throwing off the exposure, resulting in underexposure. So you can't be completely dependent on the autoexposure modes for good results. I'd recommend shooting in manual mode. An old trick is to take a metering reading of your hand and opening up one stop. This can be your base exposure and should get you pretty close. Check your LCD and histogram after an initial shot and if if you see that you are still over or under exposing, adjust your shutter speed or aperture until the result looks good.
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Penelope N. Dolin |
Thanks, I'll try that technique. I always shoot in manual, but sometimes struggle with the best place to take my meter reading.
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Bob Cammarata |
A meter reading off your hand can work but will be determined by your complexion and should be tested beforehand...(pun intended). (Mine is 1/2 stop over normal exposure in the same light.) In the attached examples, exposure was determined and set manually by metering mid-tones in the same light. Ice 1 was shot on a sunny day. A gray card was held in place in front of this ice formation with bright reflective highlights. Ice 2 was taken on an overcast day and was metered off the brightest part of the falls to the left. Exposure was set to overexpose the hot spots of the falls by 1/2 stop...which prior tests had proven to be just about right for a cloudy day. Ice 3 was also taken on an overcast day and was metered off the gray portions of the ice itself.
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