 Elizabeth Marquess |
Canon 30D autofocusing points
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John P. Sandstedt |
I guess I'm missing something. There are nine focusiong points on my 30D, and there's no changing them. But, if you read the manual, you'll find that wjen you're in Auto or Program Modes, the camera will focus on a subject at the closest focus point - that is, the closest subject that is seen by a focus point. Get out of Auto or Program. Set your camera for Aperture Priory. At that point, you're free to move the camera around and settle on the point/subject you're interested in.
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Elizabeth Marquess |
First of all, I shot in Av, which is Aperture Priority. Second, I have read the manual, and on page 77 it tells you that you can change AND select any of the focusing points. Sorry to bother you with such a question.
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Samuel Smith |
hey liz, give us an f-stop.if your down around f5.6 that's kinda narrow as far as focusing.go up to at least f8 and see if your results are better.lose the attitude and make sure it's not also a problem with camera shake. sam
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Elizabeth Marquess |
Sam, I did shoot at f5.6. I will try going up some. My lens is a Canon EF 28-135mm with image stabilization, so do you think I can go up any higher? Thanks for the help, and sorry about the attitude.
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Christopher A. Vedros |
Elizabeth, Don't worry about the "attitude" comment. John was wrong to assume you were shooting in Auto. You can't change the autofocus point in Auto anyway. I agree with Sam that at least part of the problem is shallow Depth of Field due to a low f/stop. The only way to get more things in focus when they are at different distances from the camera is to use a higher f/stop. This will result in slower shutter speeds, so you can't go overboard and shoot everything at f/22, either. You need to find a middle ground where you have enough DOF to get your subjects in focus, and a fast enough shutter speed to freeze action or prevent camera shake. The image stabilization will help minimize camera shake at slower shutter speeds. Good luck,
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John P. Sandstedt |
No "attitude comment" intended at all. But when I read, "I know how to move the points from one place to another . . ." I mistakenly assumed a request to "move" a focus point around the viewfinder. And, since you can't "select" a specific focus point in Auto, I assumed that all focus points were lit [Default???] Hey, Chris, why couldn't Elizabeth go for f/16 and use manual focus at 1/3 into the scene to achieve hyperfocal distance? And, to maintain higher shutter speeds, she should increase the ISO setting.
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Elizabeth Marquess |
Chris, Thank you so much for your response. It is very helpful to me. The 30D is my first DSLR, and I haven't learned all the "ins and outs" of using an SLR. I am taking classes, but as you can see it hasn't all sunk in yet. I'm not yet thinking like a photographer. I understood your response better than some of my class lessons, and it finally put DOF and and f-stop into perspective for me. Thanks again, I am so grateful, I feel like I should pay for the lesson!
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Jon Close |
In the P, Av, Tv, and M exposure modes the autofocus mode and active autofocus sensors can be selected independently. If you do not want to constantly change the active autofocus sensor, then either select the center sensor (the most sensitive) and leave it, or set Automatic AF Point Selection. The Auto function will use all of focus sensors and generally will focus on the nearest, highest contrast subject covered by the sensors. This may or may not be your intended subject. Re modes - If your subjects are active and moving, then select AI Servo (continuous AF) as the autofocus mode. If you combine AI Servo with Auto AF Point Selection, the active focus sensor starts at the center and will only "hand-off" focus to other sensors if the camera senses that the subject has moved from center. For still subjects, One Shot would be preferred. The default mode is AI Focus, which is a combination of One Shot and AI Servo, but generally does not work as well as either. I never use AI Focus, and it isn't even included in the pro-level EOS cameras. Another alternative that might work for your situation, Elizabeth, is to shoot in A-DEP mode. In this mode the camera sets Auto AF point selection, and selects an aperture such that the nearest and farthest subjects covered by the 9 AF sensors is within the depth of field. That would help alleviate the problem of Auto AF point selection not choosing the particular subject you want. Smaller apertures will increase depth of field, but will require longer shutter speeds. While IS will correct for camera shake, you may need to set higher ISO to get subject freezing shutter speeds.
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Elizabeth Marquess |
Thanks, Jon. My camera was set on Al Focus, but I changed it. I am going to take some more pictures this evening, and I am going to try using the A-Dep mode also. Thanks for your response. It was very helpful.
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Christopher A. Vedros |
John S. - I was referring to Sam telling her to "lose the attitude". (Look who's talking??) Using the Hyperfocal Distance method at f/16 would work if you have lots of light. I don't usually recommend increasing ISO at first, mainly because I don't do it much. I have the original Digital Rebel (300D) and ISO 400 is noisy and everything above is ridiculous. I've heard the 30D and other newer Canons are much better at higher ISOs, though. Chris A. Vedros
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Samuel Smith |
name dropping will get you nowhere.i knew it was me,sam
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Elizabeth Marquess |
Thanks for the advice guys. I took some pictures of my friends children this evening. I changed to Al Servo, f/8, and shot in both Aperture priority and A-dep. HUGE difference! They turned out great and everyone was in focus. I appreciate the responses. I learned alot, and this has helped me out tremendously.
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Samuel Smith |
hey liz, john was trying to help and maybe said something to insult your credibility. there are times I am a sarcastic moron. the lose the attitude thing? i am glad you took it as such. you sifted through this and attained a goal. yet you listened and learned. thanks,sam
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