 Robyn Gwilt |
PSE5 Has anyone tried PSE 5 - I've got 4, and am looking at paying the difference for the internet upgrade, then read somewhere that its not worth it, and the person who posted said they felt it was a waste of money.... blah blah. Is this a one off, or has anyone else got any comments good or bad? Thanks
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John P. Sandstedt |
Hi Robyn - When I, as a E-4 owner, was asked by Adobe for comments on improvements, I gave some. None, I might add were incorporated. I just got my hands on CS2, so I won't go for E-5. Wouldn't have in any event. From my read of the Pop Photo and Shutterbug reviews, E-5 is easier to use but still doesn't have a full Curves package, nor Channel Mixer. If you process RAW directly in E-4, you should know that CS2 does lots more. Check out John Canfield's book, RAW 101. The reviews on E-5 didn't include anything on handling RAW - so, I assume that there's nothing beyond what you have in E-4. If you must, go ahead and upgrade. But, if money is no object, CS3 is supposed to come out in the Spring. Regards,
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Robyn Gwilt |
Thanks John, I value your input and comments. You mention processing RAW directly in PSE4 - how do you do that, I can't??
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John P. Sandstedt |
You need to go to the Adobe website and click on Photoshop product information. Then type in Camera RAW in the search box. You'll get to a listing of downloads of upgrades to the Camera RAW plug-in reflecting more and more cameras. Download the version for your camera. This will give you a file you must insert appropriately into E-4. So, download the Read-Me file that come with the plug-in you select. It contains the instructions.
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Robyn Gwilt |
THanks, I had a look the other day, but it was soooooooooo confusing (!) I'll try again :)
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John P. Sandstedt |
Do you want me to walk you through it?
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Robyn Gwilt |
That would be great - thanks
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John P. Sandstedt |
OK - Go to www.adobe.com When the screen opens, type Camera Raw in the Search Field [upper right.] You'll see in the window Digital Camera Raw File Support. Curser downa nd click on the word Windows. When the next screen appears, scroll down to and click on the line that reads, Camera Raw 3.6 ReadMe file. You'll get a PDF file that contains detailed instruction on how to move a specific file and replace it with the file you'll download next. Make a hard copy of pages 2-4. Then go back to previous screen and scroll down to the nex t box describing the Camera RAW 3.6 plug-in. Click on Proceed to Download. The next screen contains a box, click on the button Download Now. You'll start the downloading process that will ultimately result in a szipped file. Once the unzipping is done, save the file to a easily retrieved place like C:\My Documents. Then follow the simple instruction on the PDF file you printed out. If Version 3.6 is like 3.4, which was the version at the time I did the download, you'll be looking at a file called Camera Raw.8bi. It has the same name as the file you downloaded, but the new one is larger. Move the original file to a different location, say C:\Program Files. Then move or copy the downloaded file from C:\My Documents to the location from which you removed the original Raw file. That's all there is to it. Test to sure it works. Open PSE 4.0 and open a RAW file. Once you're sure all is well, you can move the file you stored in C:\Prgram files to any location you'd like or you can leave it there.
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Robyn Gwilt |
Thanks John, printing it off this side, and will work through it and let you know. Thanks a mil.
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Robyn Gwilt |
When I open adobe.com the first thing option I get is: Adobe Photoshop - Digital camera raw file support ... Adobe Photoshop CS2. Digital camera raw file support. ... Supported cameras. Camera Raw 3.6. Newly supported cameras for Camera Raw 3.6 — October 2006. ... but when I look through it, its only for the 400D and doesn't mention the 30D. If you're talking about the section under the 'search' box, where it says win / mac / unix - those are for Adobe Distiller. So is this 3.6 (above), the one I should be going for?
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John P. Sandstedt |
It's OK. Read the Read-Me file and also read down the CS@ screen. You'll see the list of cameras supported. Also, the file can be loaded in PSE-3, -4 and CS2 only.
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Robyn Gwilt |
If I scroll down to version 3.5, it tells me this is compatible with the 30D (I've the 30d and 350d) i.e Supported cameras for Camera Raw 3.5 Canon
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John P. Sandstedt |
Right. It's compatible with PSE 3.0 and PSE 4.0 and CS2. It won't work with Photoshop 7.0 and Photoshop CS [8.0]. But read at the top. It says, "Support for the following cameras has been added FROM Camera Raw 3.5 TO 3.6.
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Robyn Gwilt |
um, so which one - version 3.5 or 3.6?
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John P. Sandstedt |
3.6 is the most recent and most complete.
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Robyn Gwilt |
Ok, so I think its in (!!!) If I dbl click the RAW image, it says its a CR2 file, and windows doesn't recognise the format, and I must choose a programme to open it. I've chosen PSE4, and said it must always use this. It then opens it in a 'window' thingee with a histogram on the right, and underneath the options are Settings / Adjust / Detail etc. What now?? I thought this would give me curves? If I fiddle around with these and then say Open, it then opens the image in PSE4 window, but then what is it? Still a RAW image, a jpeg? Sorry I'm a bit confused (still LOL)
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John P. Sandstedt |
Open PSE 4.0 and open a CR2 file. The screen you get contained a histogram showing the intensities of colors. It's a RAW file. The chart below allows adjustments of white balance, exposure, etc. There's a series of checked radio box - the settings you see on the slider bars are the defaults. If you unclick the radio boxes, you go to a base point [originally the camera default or, after you play around, your personal default] and you can now make all the adjustments. Reading from John Canfield's book RAW 101, make very small adjustments until you get the feel for things and, certainly, until you get what you like. If you click on the Settings Arrow, you see selections you can make and you can, after making a few adjustments, set those personal defaults. Always play with white balance first. Behind the Adjust Tab is a tab marked detail. It shows three additional selection choices, icluding Sharpen [default 25%.] Canfield advises to NEVER sharpen at this point, so I adjusted my default to a zero setting for sharpen. Back to the Adhust Tab - these setting work much like those in PSE, when you're working with a JPEG or TIF file. At the bottom: Help - you're asking for help. I don't know where you get to, probably the Main Help Menu. Save - gives you the opportunity to save the image as an edited file in Adobe DNG file format. Very few programs read DNG files at this time. Cancel - shuts the file without saving your edits. Open - converts the files from RAW and shows them on the tradition PSE screen. However, the image is now a 16-bit file. Not all of the tools can work with a 16-bit file. Once again, Canfield to the rescue, he says make all your adjustment - first in RAW, then to the 16-bit file. Then save that as a Master File BEFORE SHARPENING!!! He also recommends saving as a TIF file, not a PSD, because PSDs can't be read by every program. If you want to use some of the tools that don't work with the 16-bit file, you need to go to the Menu Line and select Image>Mode. Click on 8-bit. Lots of data is lost, but all the tools work. Save the 8-bit file as another Masterfile, if you choose. When you go to make a print, open the Master File and resize the image to the size print you want. Do any final cropping to achieve that print size and then sharpen. The degree of sharpening you'll use for an 8X10 will be different than for a 13X19. Save the file for each print size. Back to the RAW file. There are no edits retained on the RAW file following this methodology, so it truly remains your negative. I have the Canon RAW Program DPP 2.1. I haven't decided whether I prefer to adjust the RAW inage in DPP or PSE-4 more. However, if I use the DPP Transfer to Photoshop Tool, I get a larger file to save as either PSD or TIF after doing all editing in a standard PSE mode. There is the possibility that, by simply transferring, some of the value of editing the RAW file before converting the image is lost. Oh, one other thing, look at the picture you just opened. At the top of the screen, at the right, you'll see three radio boxes. Make sure these are always checked. Preview is obvious, you see your changes. Shadows and Highlights allow you to see over- and under-exposure as bright red and blue fields. It's called "clipping." Don't know all the reasons why. The colors really help the adjustment process.
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Robyn Gwilt |
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John P. Sandstedt |
Not sure if I like Orton, but love the red shirt in B&W images. And, what a terrific place to take pictures! Often, these might be simply snapshots - I think you'vce gone far beyond that, here. One of the things I like about this web site is that there are so many people willing and able to help others. I learn something almost every time I log on. Of course, there are those few trouble-makers. Anyway, now I'm in the process of learning to use CS2. But, I need to get a Huey because my monitor is all screwed up. Very dark and contrasty - all of a sudden, and the various adjustment controls don't work. It's an LCD so Adobe Gamma doesn't help either. We'll talk again soon, I'm sure.
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Robyn Gwilt |
Thanks again John - I agree, its great that people (like yourself) have so much to offer - and I do try to ignore the stirrer's!! I also love the fact that you can scroll through others pix and get inspiration unlimited!!! Good luck with the monitor :) I'm off to bed, its after midnight in Johannesburg (and still hot as hell!!)
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Mike Rubin |
I upgraded to PSE 5 (price was right) I use a different program to process my RAW images. Elements is too limited. But v5.0 has a feature "correct camera distortion" which makes it quick and easy to correct perspective,barrel distortion,vertical and horizontal problems ,angle and edge extension. You can do all this with v4, but it is quicker and easier in v5. There is also a "Color Curves" option. I have not used it yet so I can't comment on it but in Kelby's book on PSE5 he covers it well and only has good thing to say about it. I hope this gives you some insight to determine if it is worth the expense.
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Robyn Gwilt |
Thanks Mike - by the sounds of things it might be worth waiting a while:)
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