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Photography Question 

Lynsey Lund
 

Information on filters


I just went to an auction for a camera store here, and got a TON of filters at a great price. I am new to the filter game, so I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking at. Can someone suggest a good book or article that will explain what each filter is used for, and help me figure out which one to keep? I shoot an N65 for film, and a D70 for digital. If it matters, my lenses are a 28-80, 70-200, 50 prime. Thanks for your recommendations!


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August 01, 2006

 

John P. Sandstedt
  First off- don't let filters become a crutch. Often, you can "do it" with just an exposure change.

That being said, in many cases, once your images are loaded onto your computer, you can "do it with Photoshop."

That also being said, the work horse filter should be a circular polarizer. You can use it to blow out white clouds from a brilliantly blue sky, you can get rid of unwanted reflections in glass or water, and you can use it as a neutral density filter to cut very bright light impacting your exposure.

A color enhancing filter is great to improve the saturation of reds and oranges [Fall foliage.] I use it with a polarizer for dramatic effects. But, there's almost 4-stops of exposure lost with the combination.

If you shoot infrared film, you must use a red 25A filter. This filter works like a polarizer with color film to make white clouds jump out of a dark sky in B&W.

Lots of folks use split screen filters [color, soft focus, etc.] These sometimes can give neat results, but sometimes there will be disappointment.

A lot of people swear by a Skylight 1A [I prefer the Hoya 1B] and or a Haze Filter to remove some haze, control too muc bluish lighting and provide protection for their lenses. I really have never been impressed by haze removal and/or impact on blue. I've been much more concerned that when these "protection filters" are used, they introduced the possibility of increased flare. So, I used lens hoods.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll have fun with your filters. They can give a lot of great results if circumstances are correct. Do use the polarizer, however. It's the one filter that's a MUST!


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August 01, 2006

 

Lynsey Lund
  Thanks for the quick response John! You mentioned having to adjust the exposure up or down a few stops. Does this need to be done with all filters? Or does it tell me on the kind of filter I have?


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August 01, 2006

 

John P. Sandstedt
  All filters have a "filter factor." Generally, skylight and haze filters don't impact exposure. You'll lose 1 1/2 to 2 stops with a polarizer, 2 to 6 depending on which neutral density filter you use. I seem to recall that you'll lose maybe 1 1/2 with a red 25S filter.

But, take heart, your automatic through the lens metering system will usually make the exposure correction for you.

As to book on filters, I have two that are very old, one by Tiffen, the other by Kodak. Check out your library or Barnes and Noble or Amazon. Remember something, there's nothing except marketing hype involved in a digital filter!


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August 01, 2006

 

robert G. Fately
  Lynsey, John has some good thoughts here; let me add a few, if I may.

First, the one filter that you should definitely get is a polarizer - what it does cannot be reproduced digitally in post-processing. You need to get what's called a circular polarizer in order for the auto-focus systems on your cameras to work. (The alternative is the older linear polarizer, which interferes with the auto-focus system).

Second, besides the colored filters, there are those novelty type filters (like the kaleidascope or starburst) which used to be kind of popular in the '70s and may or may not appeal to you. Of course, don't expect to use these kinds of filters too often; their effect gets tiresome after a bit.

Third, remember that a filter is another piece of glass in the optical path - so the image through your super-deluxe lens with ultra-fine optics will suffer if you buy cheap brands with little or poor coating, non-parallel glass, etc. So if you can get brands like B+W, Nikon, Canon or Heliopan you'll be better off than cheap or no-name brand filters. Hoya and Tiffen have some filters that are elcellent, and others that are quite mediocre - it's all about price points when they are first sold.


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August 01, 2006

 

Andy
  I don't think you need a "book" on filters. The filter manufactures' sites have pretty good information of their product and their uses. Like:

http://www.thkphoto.com/products/hoya/index.html

http://www.tiffen.com/products.html?tablename=filters&filter_format=Screw-In

http://www.tocad.com/filters.html

Hope this helps.


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August 02, 2006

 

Lynsey Lund
  Thanks for the websites Andy, I will check them out.

Bob...you mention the optics part of puting on a filter. IS Conkin (Conklin?) a good brand or no? As I mentioned...it was just a big box of filters that were in with some other stuff that I got, so was just going to utilize what I could!


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August 02, 2006

 

robert G. Fately
  Hi, Lynsey,

I think the brand you are referring to is Cokin. I don't have these filters, but I believe these are the ones that come in 3x3" or 4x4" squares, and that you affix to the front of the lens by means of a separate filter holder (that also allows multiple fulters to be used simultaneously).

As I understand it, Cokin filters come in better and lesser grades - the higher priced ones use a better or flatter acrylic sheet or something like that. But again, since this is the rare photographic gadget with which I have no direct experience, I'm certain others here know more.


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August 02, 2006

 

Andy
  Lynsey, since you have already got the filters, do you know what kind and size of the filters? If you tell us those information, we may be able to tell you which filter is for and if it fits on your lens (I am assuming you got the screw in type filters). If you are using Nikon lenses, then the size of filter that can fit on 28-80 is 58mm, 70-200 is 77mm and the prime 50 is 52mm.

Ideally if all your filters are 77mm in diameter, they can fit on your 70-200 lens and you can get a step-up-ring to put on your other lenses and use the same filter.

I have used Cokin filters. It's a good deal for amateur photographers because each piece of the filter usually cost below US$20. But it is easy to get scratches and dust. Also you can use the higher end filters from Lee, Singh-Ray, Hitech and Kodak on the Cokin holder. Hope this helps.


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August 02, 2006

 

Debra LeVasseur
  Hi, I know this discussion has been up for a while but I just found it. So, I hope you are all still reading the comments. I also new to filters, can anyone tell me, is it a good idea to keep the polarizing filter on while doing wedding photo's? I know that it brightens the sky and water but will it be ok for a bright white dress and a dark tux?


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October 09, 2006

 

Debra LeVasseur
  Hi, I know this discussion has been up for a while but I just found it. So, I hope you are all still reading the comments. I also new to filters, can anyone tell me, is it a good idea to keep the polarizing filter on while doing wedding photo's? I know that it brightens the sky and water but will it be ok for a bright white dress and a dark tux?


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October 09, 2006

 

robert G. Fately
  Debra, I would not suggest using a Polarizing filter for wedding work, as I don't think it will offer any big advantages and it wil allow less light through meaning you'll need a higher ISO/film speed and/or a slow shutter speed, whatever.

Polarizers manage to darken the blue sky, which is why the white clouds "pop" more against the sky, making them seem whiter. Unless you plan on taking all your shots from ground level looking up at the bride (to put the sky inthe background) then this might not be particularly worthwhile (never mind that the degree of effect has a lot to do with the angle of incidence of the light source, etc.)

Where a Polarizer may help is if you have some situations where glare is a problem, as polarizers can diminish or even remove glare (again, depending on light angles, etc.). But I daresay this would be only a fraction of the shots you'll take at a wedding.

Hope that helps,


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October 09, 2006

 

Debra LeVasseur
  Thank you so much Bob, yes, that helps a lot. I am having a hard enough time conquring the shutter & ISO etc... Anytime I take my Sony F828 off automatic to try practicing in low light, I just get grainy pics. I guess that just comes with learning. I hope to learn all the aspects (or atleast most of them)of my camera, eventually. Practice, practice, practice...lol Thanks again :-)


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October 09, 2006

 

robert G. Fately
  Well, Debra, you need to remember that there are certain realities you cannot avoid:

The higher the ISO setting, the more "noise" a CCD will record. Noise is kind of like the audio version you hear if you turn your stereo amplifier on without turning on the CD player or radio - that static. In the amp, that noise is the amplification of the random "hiccups" made by the electronics themselves. In a CCD set to be more sensitized to any photonic hits, it can record photons of heat given off by itself! That's why astronomical CCDs are chilled in the big telescopes - the lower the heat they put out, the ess noise they "read".

It's this noise that looks like grain in film (where, of course, higher speed films have more grain than slow films). Different reasons, same final effect.

So if there's not much light, you can do one of three things:
1) use a faster lens (which you can't since it's not interchangeable on the 828, right?)
2) use a slower shutter speed (which of course can lead to motion blur - though if the subject is static and you use a tripod you can avoid this
3) use a higher ISO - and live with the noise that comes along

Like everything else in life, photography is a compromise - you've got to select what you want to use based on the outcome you're seeking.


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October 09, 2006

 

Debra LeVasseur
  Right, I cannot changed my lenses.
Thanks for all the CCD info...thats my motto...Learn something NEW every day. Thanks for the lighting tips also.


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October 09, 2006

 
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