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Photography Question 

Jeremy Jones
 

Lens Recommendation


 
 
I just purchased the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM Telephoto Lens for my first lens (on a 350D). I'm relatively new to Digital SLR photography and my main subject is my daughter, who's almost 6 months old. I can already see a huge difference in the pictures (great background blur) but being a prime lens, it's taking some getting used to. Also, given the focal length, it's a bit tough to take pictures in tight spots. My question is this - what lens would you recommend to pair with the 85mm f/1.8? I thought about getting the 50mm prime (either the f/1.8 which is cheap, or the f/1.4) but wasn't sure if that would buy me much since it's relatively close in focal length to the 85mm. Would I be better served to get a decent zoom lense? I think the 85mm is going to be great for portraits but I would also like a general purpose (zoom or prime) lense, so any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Jeremy

P.S. Attached are some shots I got with the new 85mm lens (keeping in mind I'm basically a newb to the Digital SLR world).


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April 11, 2006

 

Jeremy Jones
  Double Post... sorry... the newer one has attachments.


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April 11, 2006

 

Michael H. Cothran
  Jeremy,
A couple of decades ago there was a real difference in the quality of images between prime and zoom lenses. Not so much anymore. The big differences between the two nowadays is simply the speed,size, and convenience. You won't find an f1.4, 1.8, or f2 in a zoom. 2.8 is as good as that gets, and with a significant increase in size and weight. You WILL find greater convenience in subject composition by being able to zoom in and out.

If you appreciate the out-of-focus backgrounds afforded by the wider apertures, you will probably be better off with primes. The 50mm is your next choice going wider, and it does couple well with the 85. The 28-135 IS is a really nice lens, but has nowhere near the speed, especially at the long end. The 24-105L is top drawer quality, but with a maximum f4 aperture, it is over 2 stops slower than your prime 85. These zooms are also much bulkier than your prime 85 or 50. But for outdoor shooting where you want maximum shooting power with minimum equipment, quality zooms are hard to beat. The 85 is a quality lens, but you won't see any difference between it and the zooms I mentioned.
Bottom line -
Primes - speed and compactness, ideal indoors.
Zooms - Convenience but bulky and slower, ideal outdoors.

Good luck
Michael H. Cothran


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April 11, 2006

 

Bob Chance
  I'm inclined to agree with Michael. A point that I would like to add though, is that you stated you basically needed something with which to work in tighter spaces. I think the 50mm would be a good choice. There is surprisingly quite a bit of difference in the angle of coverage between 50 & 85mm. The shorter you get in focal lengths, the greater the difference between two lenses. For example, a 28mm is considered a normal wide angel, but when you drop down to just 24mm, it's considered a superwide.
The real factor is going to be the lenses angle of view,
Your 85mm has an angle of view of appx. 29 degrees where as the 50mm has 63 degree. Thats a whopping 34 degree difference.
Where as a 300mm lens AOV is 8 degrees and a 600mm lens is only 4 degrees difference. But you had to double the focal length to squeeze out just 4 degrees.
And especially if you do a lot of indoor shooting, the 50mm would be faster than any zoom out there.
One last thing. The 350D uses the APS-C sensor which is smaller than full frame 35mm, so any lens you use is going to have a longer effective focal length.
Your 85mm would be more like a 136mm lens on a film camera. Likewise, the 50mm lens would be more like an 80mm lens. The focal length factor is 1.6x by the way. So any lens you look at, multiply the focal length by 1.6 to get a feel for what the lens would be like on a 35MM camera.
Basically, you aren't gaining focal length, you are loosing angle of view. The image size will always be the same for a given lens, but because the cameras sensor is smaller, you aren't getting the full image circle the lens is projecting.

Whew! That was more involved then intented, sorry!
Anyhow, hope it helps you sort things out and make the right decision.

Bob


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April 11, 2006

 

Jeremy Jones
  Thank you for such terrific responses! Bob, aren't you both gaining focal length and loosing angle of view with the 1.6x factor? The 50mm sounds like a good choice, now my only concern would be how much use I'll get out of either one. Seeing that I'm fairly new to DSLR and photography, I can imagine my reluctance to switch back to the 85mm for any purpose (unless I felt the extra focal length was needed, which I'm not so sure I'd be able to discern at this point).


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April 12, 2006

 

Paul Tobeck
  Ok Jeremy, you can stop making all us Canon owners drool. The 85mm 1.8 is an awesome close up portrait lens, one I wish I had. No Photoshop technique can match that silky smooth background blur you get at wide open. As your daughter ages and gets more active, though, I would suggest you look hard at the 28-135 IS zoom (or if you've got the cash, the 24-105 L IS). Once you have to start chasing her around, you'll quickly want to ditch a prime for a fast focusing zoom, and the image stabilization is a godsend. Save those primes for the quiet moments (and believe me, those will get fewer and fewer as time goes on!) and get the zoom to snap those great impromptu childhood moments.


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April 12, 2006

 

Bob Chance
  Jeremy:

First off, you welcome. I enjoy reading through the threads and answering peoples questions that I feel I might have useful answers for.
The answer to your question about angle of view and focal length, is 'No'.
If I can explain it this way so you can better understand.
If you are projecting a slide on a 50" screen and you adjust the distance so the image fills the screen. Now, lets suppose without changing anything else, you replace the 50" screen with one that is only 40" and you put it in the same place.
Get the mental image now?
The picture is still the same size, but since you know have a smaller screen, you aren't projecting the entire image on the screen, only a 40" part of the 50" original.
Pretty much the same thing with the smaller sensor in most digital cameras.
A 100mm lens is going to project an image circle the same size, regardless what sensor it's projecting it on. So you really don't gain anything in focal length.
It's a misnoamer! Actually what they are trying to show you is, for example, a 17mm lens on an APS-C sensor, would give you the same image coverage as a 28mm on a full frame. Or to put it in other words, it would take a 17mm lens on the APS-C camera, to take in the same angle of coverage as a 28mm on full frame. Get the picture? LOL.
And as far as your 85mm. Twenty some years ago when I was shooting film I had an arsenal of equipment, including but not limited to, 3-50mm lenses and an 85mm. I found I did more all around shooting with the 85 then I ever did with the normal lens.
i think Paul has some good lens suggestions, especially if most of your picture taking is going to be fairly close range, you really don't need anything long, and yet, when you're indoors, having the wider lens would be more beneficial.
Being it's an L series lens though, the 24-105 is going to be pricey.

Bob


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April 12, 2006

 

Jeremy Jones
  Bob, thanks. I think I've got it now. An 85mm on my 350D is still only 85mm but the image will be cropped as if it were a 136mm. I've read lens reviews that were very unclear on this point and actually make it sound like you gain focal length which is obviously not the case. I'm loving the 85mm, especially now that it's warm outside (allowing for more distance between myself and my subject). However, the 50mm would have been better suited for inside portraits given that that 85mm tends to crop quite a bit in my daughter's room, where I'm generally taking pictures of her (with my back against the wall, literally).

I've had my finger on the trigger to get the 50mm but know with a little extra effort I can make the 85mm work for me just as well. As for the zoom lenses, I've gotta say I'm a little spoiled already by the f/1.8... my kit lens is an f/3.5-5.6 like the 28-135 IS and it tends to blur easily in low light (e.g. indoors). Obviously the 28-135 IS is a better lens than the kit but given it's f/3.5-5.6 wouldn't it suffer the same fate regardless of the IS feature? Obviously I'm not going to get much faster than that in the zoom arena without forking over the bucks.

I do plan to do more outdoor shooting as well and the 70-200mm f/4L has been tempting me too. I really wish someone rented camera equipment in the area!

Then there's macro... ha. What an expensive hobby this can be, eh? :)


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April 18, 2006

 

Jeremy Jones
  Bob, thanks. I think I've got it now. An 85mm on my 350D is still only 85mm but the image will be cropped as if it were a 136mm. I've read lens reviews that were very unclear on this point and actually make it sound like you gain focal length which is obviously not the case. I'm loving the 85mm, especially now that it's warm outside (allowing for more distance between myself and my subject). However, the 50mm would have been better suited for inside portraits given that that 85mm tends to crop quite a bit in my daughter's room, where I'm generally taking pictures of her (with my back against the wall, literally).

I've had my finger on the trigger to get the 50mm but know with a little extra effort I can make the 85mm work for me just as well. As for the zoom lenses, I've gotta say I'm a little spoiled already by the f/1.8... my kit lens is an f/3.5-5.6 like the 28-135 IS and it tends to blur easily in low light (e.g. indoors). Obviously the 28-135 IS is a better lens than the kit but given it's f/3.5-5.6 wouldn't it suffer the same fate regardless of the IS feature? Obviously I'm not going to get much faster than that in the zoom arena without forking over the bucks.

I do plan to do more outdoor shooting as well and the 70-200mm f/4L has been tempting me too. I really wish someone rented camera equipment in the area!

Then there's macro... ha. What an expensive hobby this can be, eh? :)


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April 18, 2006

 

Jeremy Jones
  I'm really bad about double posting on the BetterPhoto forums... this place needs an edit and/or delete feature for your own posts :)


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April 18, 2006

 

Bob Chance
  Don't worry Jeremy. I see double, triple and even once in a while a quradruple post in some threads.
Sounds like you got a good grasp on the lens conversion factor thing-a-mu-bob.
It can be very misleading if you don't really understand what's going on behind the scenes. Many people are out there buying say a 400mm for their APS-C camera, thinking it will give the same magnification as a 640mm on a full frame. WRONG!!!
The way the industry is trying to put it, a subject, lets say a tree, shot with a 400mm on a less than full frame DSLR, is going to give about the same proportion of subject to surrounding frame as a 640mm lens on a full frame,
However, the subject and surrounding area will be same size regardless what camera you are using.

When shooting with your zoom, I am assuming you are using available light, no flash? Have you tried uping the ISO so you can get a slightly faster shutter speed to reduce blur from camera movement?
Also, I don't know what shutter speed you're shooting at when you get the blurred pictures, but I've shot at way slower than 1/30 with my 17-85IS and have gotten incredibly sharp pictures.
I don't mean to imply that you don't know what you are doing, but did you check to make sure the IS feature on the lens is turned on? On both my lenses I can disable the IS. There are cases when you should turn it off. Such as when the camera is mounted on a tripod, or when you are shooting from a moving vehicle or plane. I've read that these situations mess up the system. It was designed to compensate for gradual, slight movements such as your body swaying while trying to hold still.
Any fast zoom lens worth it's salt is going to cost you your mortgage. I wish there was a way you could tell whether or not for sure the 50mm would do the trick for you without actually having one. Sure, you could go to the store and slap it on your camera and look through it, but that isn't going to help you to know if it's what you need in the confines of a small room.
Canon makes the 50mm in both a 1.4 and a 1.8 version. Other options for wide could be the 28mm f/1.8 or the 35mm f/2.0. They also make a 35mm f/1.4 which is an 'L' series lens, so it would not be cheap. 'L' series designates special glass used to correct for aberrations in the lens. This glass is very expensive to cut and ground to the exacting tolerances which is why it's so expensive. It's not neccessarily the glass itself, but the manufacturing.
If you're going to get into macro and plan on staying with Canon equipment, don't bother with the 50mm macro. To me, it's a waste of money as it only gives you half life size, unless you buy the optional life size converter for it, which is nothing more than an extension tube. By the time you buy both, you could have bought one of the other macro lenses of a longer focal length that offer life size without the addition of a converter or tube. Canon makes a 60mm, 100mm and 180mm macro lens. The 60 & 100 aren't too bad in price, but the 180 is pretty steep.
I found a place on Canons website that will bring up a picture shot in a narrow street. You can click on the numbers at the bottom of the picture, which represent lens focal lengths, and it will give you an idea of comparison. As I had already stated, there is quite a difference between a 50 & 85.
Go to: http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=ProductCatIndexAct&fcategoryid=152

Then click in the box on the right that reads "EF Lenses 101" then click "focal length comparisons"
Hope all this helps.

Good luck and let me know what you decide.

Bob


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April 18, 2006

 

Jeremy Jones
 
 

BetterPhoto.com Editor's Pick  
Bright Eyes
Bright Eyes
Aperture Value f/2.2

Exposure Program Manual
Compulsory Flash
Focal Length 85 mm
ISO 100
Shutter Speed Value 1/199 sec

Jeremy Jones

 
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Aperture Value f/2
ISO 100
Shutter Speed Value 1/640 sec

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  Untitled
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Aperture Value f/2.2
ISO 100
Shutter Speed Value 1/200 sec

Jeremy Jones

 
 
Bob,

I didn't mean to imply that my kit lens has IS - it doesn't. I understand the IS feature would allow me to shoot at slower shutter speeds but I'm not sure it would help a whole lot, especially when the subject gets to moving around a lot :)

I think I'm going to go with the 50mm f/1.4 in addition to the 85mm. Again, I have the kit zoom if I feel that's needed but I should be able to work with the 50 and 85, even if it means moving a little to get the comp. I want (or cropping in post-processing).

I've posted these in the other thread (a true double post that was) so I'll go ahead and post them here as well. These are from the 85mm f/1.8, most of them were shot in a small (13' long) room and I think they came out pretty good. It's just takes a few more shots to get her in the frame some times (thank goodness there's no film involved).


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April 18, 2006

 
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