 Justin G. |
Rodinal...digital, don't even open this page is rodinol a brand name of its own or is it a product of kodak or some other company? i've been reading good things and I wanna soup it with some acros 100 120.
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Mark Feldstein |
Hey JG: Rodinal is a really swell IMHO, fine grain b&w film developer made (or formerly made) by Agfa. Better score some soon because my understanding is it's out of production since the corporation isn't coming out of bankruptcy. Mark P.S. Just sent you an e-mail to your work address.
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Justin G. |
Dangit, I'll have to snatch some ebayers. saw some for like $10, I gues that's a good price compared to everyone else's. do you have any very fine grain bw developer. before I learned that your developer really effects your negs I just used tmax on everything. now that I know better and have fallen in love with neopan acros 100, I wanna find a good developer. I got a gallons mix of HC-110 which came highly recommended. i've developed a few with it but haven't seen my negs in an enlarger so I can't really tell how they are. what about microdol and technidol or whatever those guys are called. good ones in your experience?
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
Got to be the dumbest title to a thread. Got issues.
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Justin G. |
i just really don't care what I say on this site anymore. i'll just stick with emailing the people who actually have photography knowledge.
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Mark Feldstein |
Hey Justin, just ignore the background noise and post your questions. Some of us can still articulate a meaningful answer. Besides, I just wrote what I thought was a meaningful diatribe on digital photography and how consumers are being sold a bill of goods by manufactuers in marketing materials and consumer photo mags. Anyway, it's an interesting question since Rodinal seems to be disappearing, what are we going to use for fine grain developers other than T-Max R.S. (replenishment system), HC110, and maybe Ilfotec. (From Ilford). Back to the Photographic Formularly to concoct our own? I hate that. There was/is some stuff called Pyro that I think is used for both film and paper. I can't recall though. Take it light.
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
Yes, some of us can. Good thing I have my all access pass.
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Christopher A. Vedros |
Rodinal - sounds like something you give to hyper kids. ;-) Justin, try www.porters.com I haven't checked them out in quite a while, but I used to get lots of different chemicals from them. Of course, I had a lot more hair the last time I was in a wet darkroom! If you find some, buy all you can, from what I recall, powdered chemicals have a pretty long shelf-life. Chris
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Steve Warren |
Hey Justin, I do the same thing, use Tmax for eveything. But I have a roll of Acros that I have been dying to try. Would Rodinal be a better choice for it than Tmax? Thanks, Steve
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Mark Feldstein |
Howdy Steve ! My preference for fine grain films is the Rodinal. But I really like T-max R.S. (Replenishment system) for higher speed films like Tri-X Pro (320 ISO exposed at 250) or regular Tri-X 400 shot at 250 also). I've never used the Acros film but I think I might give it a try too. Let me know if you want some suggestions on how to test it. Take it light, Mark.
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Michael H. Cothran |
Justin, FYI - Rodinal has been around since the late 1800's. It is an OLD developer, and as someone mentioned, made by Agfa-Gaevert in Germany. I used it way back in the 1970's and '80's. It is one of those developers that offers NO apologies, unlike many of the compensating developers over the years. If your film is fine grain, you will get it, if it is coarse grain, you will see it. The secret to using Rodinal is in the dilution strength. The stronger the dilution, the stronger contrast you receive. The weaker the dilution, the "sharper" the film image is. The last time I used it, Agfa was recommending dilutions of 1:25 or less. I use to soup it @ 1:50 and 1:100. The film quality was second to none. It takes a long time to soup it @ 1:100, and contrast is lower, but detail is everywhere. You can increase contrast in your printing paper. It is wonderful with Tri-X, and most conventional b&w films. I never tried it with T-grain films from Kodak or Ilford, as I suspect it would be awful with them. Good Luck Michael H. Cothran
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Andrew Laverghetta |
Hmm, wow, maybe I'll have to check that stuff out too. We're actually supposed to be doing "mural" printing in my photo class. That might help with the really weak(?) dilutions. I don't know how big 'mural' is in my instructors mind but if I can find some, I'll give it a try. Thanks for the fyi!
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Steve Warren |
Mark, I got a couple of qustions... Do you always rate Tri-X at 250? If so, how come? Second, I looked on ebay and saw some Rodinal, but worry about supply (and price). Anyone have anything comparable that's readily availabe from a place like B&H? I happen to work 5 blocks from there! Thanks guys!
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Steve Warren |
Mark, I got a couple of qustions... Do you always rate Tri-X at 250? If so, how come? Second, I looked on ebay and saw some Rodinal, but worry about supply (and price). Anyone have anything comparable that's readily availabe from a place like B&H? I happen to work 5 blocks from there! Thanks guys!
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Steve Warren |
Hey Guys! Mark, I got a couple of qustions... Do you always rate Tri-X at 250? If so, how come? Second, I looked on ebay and saw some Rodinal, but worry about supply (and price). Anyone have anything comparable that's readily availabe from a place like B&H? I happen to work 5 blocks from there! Thanks guys!
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Andrew Laverghetta |
Hey! I just managed to get my hands on some Genuine Agfa Rodinal a few hours ago. There's a place in Bloomington, Indiana that used to sell a lot of Agfa so I stopped by to see if they had some of this developer still around. I got a 125 mL bottle of concentrate for $6.10. I'm really excited to see how it works. The only thing that I'm concerned about is how many people say to increase exposure and how to increase developing time if I were to mix it at 1:100. It gives suggestions for popular films at 1:25 and 1:50. The instructions say that it "...promotes sharpness and gives an effective increase in film speed." Does this line up with rating ISO 100 at 50 or 400 at 250 or such? Thanks for your help!
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Justin G. |
Andrew jump on over to www.apug.org and ask your dilution question and you will get a gazillion different soupes and techniques which could help a lot.
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Mark Feldstein |
Howdy Steve: Usually I shoot TX at 250. The reason is when it's processed in T-Max RS at that ISO, it gives a bit more contrast without muddying up the details in the shadows or blocking up the highlights...and the grain is somewhat finer. Sometimes I go ahead and shoot it at 800, (a 1 stop push) or even up to 1600 (pushed 3 stops) if I really need to. Things get far more grainy and the contrast really flattens out at that speed, but sometimes ya just gotta. Note the difference in ISOs between Tri-X (TX 400) and TXP available in 120 and larger formats, with an ISO of 320. I dunno why exactly. As for Rodinal, hope springs eternal. I heard a rumor that since Agfa is dissolving (nearly before our eyes) that some other european outfit is in the process of purchasing their chemical division, which, of course, would include the rights to make Rodinal. I understand they intend to do that so...more news and film at 11. Hey JUSTIN !!! New e-mail address... mfeldstein@sbcglobal.net Sorry I didn't get it to you sooner. Oh, and our DSL network went down for maintenance while I was on a 10 day gig in Chicago. Take it light kids !!
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John Wayne |
A&O bought various parts of AGFA USA, including the chemical division. Since then, they've sold the distribution rights to a US company. It is supposed to be available again soon. Anyone looking for more info--feel free to email me. I'll give you any more info that I get. Borred101@yahoo.com
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