 Richard W. Wyeth |
Indoor Sports Hi, I have tried several settings, but I still seem to get some blur, where others seem not too. I have continued to use my f2.8 lens, as this is the fastest I currently own. I have upped the ISO to 800 and 1600, tried using both hand held and with a monopod. Am I expecting too much? Some of the Gymnastics moves are very quick and I suspect unless I am in perfect lighting conditions and maybe with a faster lens, I won't achieve anymore. I seem only to be getting shutter speeds of 200 / 250. If I try to manually set up the camera with faster shutter speeds etc.. I get a nice black picture, as no light comes through. Any other advice? Can I try anything else? The previous advice did improve things, and I am closer to what I want, so Thank you very much for the help.
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David M |
sounds like you know what you are doing...you are reaching the limitations of the camera in that environment. until they make camera's that can do iso3200/6400/12800 well, low light conditions will haunt us all. What zoom are you using? shutter speeds of 250 are pretty good for the environment you described, but like you said, will not stop fast motion, especially if you are zooming in with a 400mm lense. sometimes I'm in a big room and I want to capture the moment... if the light is not good, I just say to myself, nah, it won't come out, and I leave my camera in the bag.
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IAN J. TENNANT |
Richard How far away from the action are you ? Is the light lower in your shooting position than the lighting around the gym mat? I guess what I mean to ask is "are the lights dimmed in the spectator/shooting area ?" Ian
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Justin G. |
"Push" your digital. Shoot in RAW. Shoot at your highest ISO (probalby 1600). Shoot in Av priority with exposure comp of -1 and -2. Then get in photoshop and use curves to "push develop" the file. Basically lighten it up until you get what you want. I mean you won't be able to pull off poster prints but I'm sure on the screen they'll look good.
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David M |
I agree with the "push" Justin described. Raw files can be "lightened" up a couple of stops and still look good. Justin's idea is to purposely UNDEREXPOSE your shots to get access to higher shutter speeds, then fix the exposure later... definately worth a try.
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Justin G. |
I just used it in wet darkroom in my house last night. Should work in dry darkroom just fine. I took some TMAX 400 and shot at 3200. Negs were contrasty but alright.
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Richard W. Wyeth |
I have attached a photo, which should give you an idea of what I am getting, some are better, some are a worse.
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Justin G. |
15x10 might be hard at 1600 pushed but with some decent noise removing skills and some sharpening skills you should be good to go. at those enlargements I probably would avoid the unsharp mask or whatever its called. try the highpass method, works miracles. also since your lens is a fixed 2.8 it will be f/2.8 no matter the focal length, both 24 and 70. good luck, have fun!
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David M |
I recently switched to shooting raw.. don't hesitate, you will like the control you get and you will be glad to have that advantage. Quick "shooting RAW" workflow lesson below: This tool just reads the RAW file, lets you adjust the White Balance, Exposure, Contrast, sharpening, color saturation etc. then you tell it to create the JPG when you are happy with the way it looks. It is NOT a photoshop replacement, if you want to "make" a picture, use photoshop, if you just want to adjust the picture you took, this tool is all you need. Your RAW file is never overwritten, the tool just keeps track of your adjustments in a separate file. This tool is geared toward "workflow".. you peruse your raw files, you make adjustments to the good ones, you add the good ones to the "batch converter" which starts creating the JPG's while you move on to the next pic. There is no FileOpen, make changes, SaveAs, repeat.... you just have to try it
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