 Andrew Laverghetta |
Framing for Wedding and Portraits Hi everybody. I've got a question on how those of you who shoot 3:2 format cameras (digital or film that use 35mm lenses) frame your subjects for enlargements. I am looking for a way to see the 8x10 format through the viewfinder but I'm not quite sure. Photographers offer a few different formats like 4x6, 5x7, and 8x10 - all of which are different ratios. How do you know which way is the best to frame what's going on? Not everybody is going to want the same size. Do you just frame loosely so you have flexibility either way? In some cases with my 20D, I'm worried about losing megapixels to cropping and that loose framing. What do you suggest? Thanks!
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I recommend to my clients that they buy 8x12's. I rarely worry about it. Mostly, I sell an album with the wedding package. In the album, I have freedom to make whatever size I might need. Sometimes, the family member, or sometimes the client buys an 8x10, and usually, I luck out. If I don't luck out, I call and explain, and either talk them into an 8x12, or show them what it will look like with the crop, and they can either take it, order an 8x12, or order a different photo. Since I sell all sizes, from wallets up to 30x40, it's impossible to worry about it too much. Although, 8x10 is a common size. One thing that helps me a lot is I shoot wide all the time these days. I think I can shoot an entire wedding, almost, with a 24mm on my 20D. I use my 15mm a lot for the reception. So, the cropping for me lately hasn't been an issue. A couple of years ago, when I was shooting super tight, I always had a problem with certain size prints. Just remember that it's an inch off each of the long sides when you are shooting. HTH, Jerry
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John P. Sandstedt |
Jerry's right on. 35mm film negatives are in the 2:3 ratio (24mmX36mm). For many, many years, a standard print size has been 8X10, obviously in the 4X5 ratio. When you took your negative to a photo finisher, someone had to make a decision about cropping. When developing started to become computerized, Kodak and others introduced "jumbo 4X6 prints." Actually, all this did was take the guesswork out of printing (regarding cropping) and allowed prints to be made by the computers or the "chimpanzees" manning the machines. No human decisions were necessary. When you shoot your picture, don't extend the subject all the way to the ends of the viewfinder; rather give yourself room to crop. That way, when you view your proofs or your images on the monitor, you'll be able to make correct cropping decisions. But, so long as you're using trade processing, thank Kodak, et al, for the 8X12 prints available today.
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