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Photography Question 

Sarah Cordes
 

Bracketing


Hi my name is sarah and I am fairly new to photography. I was hoping somebody could explain what bracketing is and how to use it. Thanks for any help!


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July 13, 2005

 

Samuel Smith
  welcome sarah,
i've only used it a few times and I really could't tell much if any difference.it's for exposure,and you bracket 1/2 stop under and 1/2 stop over the exposure of what you want the exposure to be.usually for extreme light situations and from what i've read slide film.
hope this helps,sam


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July 13, 2005

 

Swapnali Mathkar
  Hi,

as said above bracketing means shooting 3 images simultaniously,
1. for the exposure you have set
2. for the exposure less than what u have set, means underexposed images
3. for the exporese more than what u have set, means overexposed image.

In some cameras you can adjust the stop as 1/2 or 1/3 or 1 or 2 to tell camera how much to overexpose and underexpose. In some cameras it is fixed 1/2 stop or 1/3 stop always when u start bracketing.

This is useful when u are not sure of the exposure of the image u r shoting or sometimes for more creativity or drama in the image.
In some cameras / modes u need to click 3 times for bracketing, but in some camras/ modes u click only once and camera shoots 3 images sequentially.


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July 13, 2005

 

Justin G.
  Sarah,

You're not going to notice any difference with print film due to its wide exposure latitude. And the majority of printers for negative film auto correct so you'll get three identical images. Bracketing is great for slide film because of its narrow exposure latitude. And the end result (mounted slide) is exactly what you shot. Good luck.

.justin.


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July 14, 2005

 

Kerry L. Walker
  Due to the wide exposure latitude of print film, you need to bracket at least 1 stop over and 1 under and have the lab print them straight up, with no corrections, to see a lot of difference. Even with print film's wider latitude, you will notice some differences, especially in the highlights and shadows, less in the mid-tones. The wider you bracket, the more you will notice. As mantioned above, it is really helpful with slide fim due to its narrow latitude and the fact that you get what you shot.


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July 14, 2005

 

Justin G.
  Thanks Kerry for touching up, I'm trying to help with what I know but I don't have the experience of guys (and ladies) like you do, so its nice to have the pro's hit up on my answers to make sure they are 100% correct. I don't want to mislead anybody. Thanks!

.justin.


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July 14, 2005

 

Kerry L. Walker
  BTW, bracketing can be a good idea. Many times I have concidered bracketing but didn't. After all, with my many years of experience, I knew what I was doing under difficult lighting situations so I knew what I would get. I've quietly eaten a lot of crow that way.


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July 14, 2005

 

Kerry L. Walker
  Justin, you were typing your response at the same time I was typing my second one. As you can see, my experience has hurt sometimes because I have misread a scene and didn't get what I wanted because I didn't bracket, thinking I knew too much.

BTW, it's consider, not concider. Type faster than I think, which ain't sayin' much.


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July 14, 2005

 

Samuel Smith
  somebody has some very pretty green eyes,eh sarah.it's in your gallery.
sam


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July 14, 2005

 

Sarah Cordes
 
 
 
Thank you so much for helping! Everyone was so helpful. Ill pass your comment on sam about the models eyes, shes one of my closest friends! Thanks again.


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July 14, 2005

 

Sarah Cordes
 
 
 
Thank you so much for helping! Everyone was so helpful. Ill pass your comment on sam about the models eyes, shes one of my closest friends! Thanks again.


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July 14, 2005

 

Samuel Smith
  what are those pictures of sarah,giv us some detail.
sam


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July 14, 2005

 

Sarah Cordes
 
 
 
Hi again,

Well, Im not sure if the site is processing the picture above properly, because on my computer its just lines and colours. Maybe someone could help and say if they can actually see the pictures. If you can see it properly, the pictures I took of my friend eden are basically portraits I thought I could take of her because I wanted to try out my new camera. I can't remember any of the exposure settings I had, unfortunitially. I did some work on photoshop with them as well.
thanks for any comments!


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July 15, 2005

 

Sarah Cordes
 
 
 
Hi again,

Well, Im not sure if the site is processing the picture above properly, because on my computer its just lines and colours. Maybe someone could help and say if they can actually see the pictures. If you can see it properly, the pictures I took of my friend eden are basically portraits I thought I could take of her because I wanted to try out my new camera. I can't remember any of the exposure settings I had, unfortunitially. I did some work on photoshop with them as well.
thanks for any comments!


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July 15, 2005

 
- Gregory LaGrange

BetterPhoto Member
Contact Gregory LaGrange
Gregory LaGrange's Gallery
  braketing isn't necessarily in 1/2 or whole stop steps, done in 3 pictures; nor done over, under, and one normal.
It's just different exposures of the same thing to see which one ends up looking better.


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July 15, 2005

 

David A. Bliss
  I'd like to throw something else in. Everyone has mentioned film, but not digital. It is just as important to bracket in digital. There is a misconception that incorrect exposure can be corrected later. This is partially true, but once the pixels have gone white, there is no turning back, and if you bump up the exposure on a dark image, it increases noise. Bracketing gives you a better chance of having one shot come out correctly if you didn't have your settings quite right. Even in digital, you should start with the best photo you possibly can, instead of trying to correct a photo that wasn't right. And with digital, bracketing is free. All you have to worry about is having enough space on your card!


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July 15, 2005

 

Bob Cammarata
  That's an interesting point David.
I've always thought that with digital you could see the results you've captured instantly and make the necessary adjustments to compensate while at the scene.

And Kerry,...How do you like your "crow"? (I've eaten some myself.)I prefer mine roasted, with a little garlic butter....especially on those bright sunny days. :)


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July 15, 2005

 

David A. Bliss
  Yes you can, Bob. But you are judging an overall exposure by looking at a small LCD screen. Better to bracket and be sure. I know this from experience, speaking of crow ;-)


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July 15, 2005

 

David A. Bliss
  I thought about this for a little while, and came up with some more points. Another way you can check exposure on digital is with the histogram. And if you have time, this is a good way to go. But how many times have we been shooting, especially sunrise and sunset, and the great light is gone in the time it takes you to change a lens. Taking the time to check the LCD or the histogram might keep you from hitting that perfect light.


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July 15, 2005

 

shannon casey
  I've been wondering about this too. David, here's my question. I have a Canon 20D. although I understand that I can pretty much set the bracketing stops however I want them, I am wondering if you have a general, generic recommendation, since I just often want to capture a shot quickly, without a whole lot of reprogramming. I have it set, ( I think) to one full stop up, and one down. I shoot than I look at the LCD preview and if they all seem wrong, I try adjusting either the shutter speed or the AV. Does this sound like a good strategy for candids portraits, which is most of what I shoot?


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July 15, 2005

 

Terry R. Hatfield
  Hi Sarah!I Think Your Question On The Bracketing Has Some Good Answers!Your Image "Hiding" Looks Like Was Uploaded In 16bit Thats Usually What Causes The Lines And Colors Like That:-)


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July 16, 2005

 

Terry R. Hatfield
  Oh Shannon,I Thought You Used The P Mode?


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July 16, 2005

 

Andrew Laverghetta
  Shannon, one way that I bracket with my 20D is to use exposure compensation. The way I do that is to turn the power switch to setting after "ON". It has a line pointing towards the dial on the back. You can then turn the dial a click to the right or left and set exposure compensation for under and over exposure manually. You can also use a custom function to change it to half-stops instead of 1/3 stops. So, I take the picture, lock exposure with the star button (*) turn the dial clockwise one click, take the picture, and turn it back couter clockwise two clicks and take the picture again.

Hope this helps!


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July 16, 2005

 

shannon casey
  Terry, as I said in a differenet thread, I usually leave my 20d in the P mode ( I call it autopilot) so it's ready if I want to grab a quick snapshot, which hapens often. Usually the results are very nice. But I am trying to master the many features that this camera offers, when I have time. For example, recently I was expirimenting with shooting in the b/w mode. I got distracted and left the camera in this mode. A few days later, I grabbed the camera for a quick snapshot of my daughter and dog napping together. By the time I looked at the LCD and realized that I had shot a bad b/w image, and changed the settings, the dog was gone. See what I mean? I don't think that I need to use this camera for "serious" shooting only.


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July 17, 2005

 
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