BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: New Answers

Photography Question 

Bettina Harpin
 

Pushing Film for Concert pictures


I was thinking of pushing 400 speed kodak film to 800 for better concert pix how would this result? or should I just buy a roll of 800 speed film and push that a stop or two?


To love this question, log in above
July 05, 2004

 

John A. Lind
  Bettina,
Which ISO 400 and 800 Kodak films are you considering? IMHO their consumer color negative films don't push very well and they're comparatively grainy at rated speed. Pushing a film increases contrast and grain; the more it's pushed the more its contrast and grain increases.

I believe you would be better off with Fuji's Press 800 or Press 1600 and using them at their rated speeds rather than trying to push one of the Kodak films. The cost difference (Fuji Press is a pro film) is offset by not having to pay the surcharge for push developing a slower film. If in doubt about lighting level you will encounter, use the 1600. I don't recommend pushing either of the Fuji films either.

-- John Lind


To love this comment, log in above
July 05, 2004

 

Jon Close
  If you're referring to Kodak's traditional black & white films (T-MAX 400, Tri-X 400), these do push-process very well. If you're referring to the color print or C-41 process Kodak Black & White 400, then ditto what John Lind wrote.

With respect to C-41 process color and black & white print film, these tend to have very wide exposure latitude and will give a useable result (though noticably more grainy) when rated at a higher ISO, but developed normally. Some will refer to this as "pushing" the film, but there is no corresponding special processing.

With C-41 film, all ISO speeds are developed for the same amount of time. Great for high-volume labs and 1 hour shops because 100/200/400/800/1600 film can all be developed in the same batch. To have a roll push-processed (left in the developer for an extra 30 sec./stop) is a custom job that most high volume labs won't do. Worse yet, if you get an unknowledgable clerk, or an unscrupulous one, and you ask for "push processing" you may get charged extra but the film still developed normally - relying instead on the print film's inherent wide exposure latitude.


To love this comment, log in above
July 06, 2004

 

John A. Lind
  Jon,
I think he's after color (there was another posting later asking bout the Fuji films).

Kinda off his direct question, as they're B/W films, but still related to pushing film . . .

If you've been pushing Tri-X or TMax two stops (which I agree do push well) you might try using Ilford Delta 3200 or TMax P3200 (TMZ) at EI 1600. The ISO rated speed of both is about 800 - 1000 depending on specific soup chemistry to develop them. Both are designed specifically for pushing. At EI 3200 (Push-2) contrast is good along with mid-tones, but there's definite grain in 8x10's; isn't objectionable (to me), but it's there (has an interesting texture). Very suitable for some subject material, but not all. I found using them Push-1 at EI 1600, if there was enough light, opened up contrast with noticeably smoother tonal transition and granularity similar to Tri-X at its rated ISO 400.

I use mostly TMZ for high speed B/W, but the Ilford is just as good. If you think you might have to burn a few frames under direct sunlight (if you can stop down far enough), IMHO Ilford's spectral response does better than TMZ's. Under man-made lighting I consider them about the same.

-- John Lind


To love this comment, log in above
July 06, 2004

 
Log in to respond or ask your own question.