Kris Oechsle |
Shooting Soccer in Overcast Conditions
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Tom Leckwart |
I have shot football in a drizzle, and it was no picnic. My best advice is to boost your ISO to the point where you can use a shutter speed of at least 1/320. I prefer 1/500 minimum, but have gotten sharp images from 1/320. I use a 30D, 80-400 Tokina ATX, monopod, and I will push the ISO as high as 1000 on lousy days. The last shot in my gallery here was taken on a day just after the drizzle let up, with my backup camera no less. You can always underexpose a stop or two, then adjust later in PS as well. That should get you sharp pics in poor light. An IS/VR lens does not hurt either...
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Bob Cammarata |
Your example did not load but you can look carefully at your blurred images to determine the best course of action. Are they fuzzy overall? Are the athletes blurry against a sharp background? If the first scenario is true, better support for your camera will help sharpen things up.
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Kris Oechsle |
Thank you Bob & Tom. Bob...the second scenario is more common. I have a sharp background with blurred foreground subjects. I have been using 1/320 shutter speed with an ISO of 800 on average. I will use your advice the next time I'm shooting in those conditions.
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Martin J. Preslar |
I would echo the comments of Bob and Tom. (Sounds like a radio morning show...) I do a lot of sports in poor lighting conditions. Using a mono-pod (or tripod if you have room and don't need the mobility) is a big help, but if you can't get shutter speeds that are OK for hand-holding you risk motion blur on the players anyway. Now, for soccer, if you have a clear shot of the face and the ball and foot are blurred, that is called "Art" and can look really cool! :) In general, don't be afraid to bump up the ISO. I generally shoot in shutter priority mode and bump up the ISO to ensure that the aperture is OK. I shoot raw+jpeg so I can adjust the exposure as needed, but I can also quick-process the jpegs and upload them quickly. For baseball I used to use a 2x extender with my Sigma 70-200mm 2.8 at the beginning of games, then as the light faded I would take off the extender and finish shooting. (My new Sigma 70-200mm 2.8 DG doesn't work with my old extender, so I can't do that anymore.) I would still have to bump the ISO up late in the games though. This example is from Ice Hockey in conditions similar to a cloudy day, but with artificial lighting instead. It was shot at ISO-1600, 1/320s, 117mm, and F7.1. I hand held, because the mono-pod makes it hard to keep the shots level when shooting from the stands at a hockey arena.
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