Christie E. Kleinert
Pentagon Shapes in Direct Sun and Moon Shots
Hmm, all I saw in your photos are jpeg compression artifacts.
However, whenever you take photos of a light source, you are never going to get a sharp point. It's always going to flare. (I believe the term is lens flare, but I could be wrong)
I think, though, more likely in your case, it's actually because the sun/moon is way over exposed. Because the surrounding black is so dark, the camera wants to expose the film more, until it has an average of 18% grey on your film. Of course, that means that any bright points are going to be a blurry blob of light.
To avoid this, you need to spot meter from the moon (good luck with the sun! - actually, don't try it. I've heard that it's possible to damage some light meters by pointing them at the sun) The down side of this, of course, is that the rest of the photo will then be pitch black. It's an unavoidable consequence because of the thin exposure latitude of film. (IE, film cannot see both very bright and very dark like the eyes can)
Hope this helps.
|Christie E. Kleinert||
Thanks! I guess that means maybe I should also try underexposing by 1/2 to 1 full stop? I think you gave me some good places to start! Again thanks!
John A. Lind
Pentagon shapes in your photographs? If you still have the instruction sheet for your lens, look up its specifications. I'd bet dollars to donuts it has five aperture blades in the aperture diaphragm.
Wide open, the aperture is formed by the round lens barrel. As it stops down, these blades form a polygon shaped aperture. Many of the Canon EF lenses for the EOS system have five blades and these form a pentagon shaped aperture at anything but wide open. When a very small and very bright light source (compared to the rest of the image) is within the field of view, the light from it bounces around inside your lens and cause a bright spot in the shape of the lens aperture diaphragm. This is called "aperture flare." Filters won't do anything to eliminate it. In fact, they can make it worse or create additional problems with the added air/glass surfaces for light to reflect from and bounce around inside your lens.
Some lenses are more prone to aperture flare than others; it's a function of lens design related to formulation of the glass elements and groups, anti-reflective optical coating(s) on them, location of the aperture diaphragm inside the lens, and the construction of the lens barrel (placement of light baffles and effectiveness of the "flocking" to reduce internal reflections).
As far as shooting pictures of moon goes, you could use the sunny 16 rule to set the exposure as it is directly lit by the sun. Try using a exposure of f8 and 250 shutter speed which would give the same exposure as the sunny 16 rule. Using a faster shutter speed is better to freeze slightest of movements.
For the sunset, wait till the sun is really low on the horizon. Meter from an area next to the sun excluding the sun from the field of view. Set the reading and then recompose your picture.
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