BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: Informative Topics on Photographing People

Photography Question 

Michelle Ross
 

How to Photograph a Group


I have a Maxxum 7D Digital Camera! I have some questions regarding photography mainly in a group situation.

1. If I'm photographing a group of people for like a family portrait or wedding party, what setting would you recommend with my lens? I have a 50mm 1.7 lens. It seems like when I'm taking group photos that it always wants to focus on one person regardless of how I have my focus mode set. If I'm doing an individual, I set the camera to center focus and on their eyes/face? But in a group this doesn't seem to work.

Also, what aperture would you recommend with this lens for a group? I have heard to use f8 for portraits, but what about groups?
If anyone can offer just any general advice for a group situation, it would be greatly appreciated.


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January 31, 2005

 

Kerry L. Walker
  Remember that the depth of field increases as the size of the aperture decreases. Thus, at f16, you will have greater depth of field than at f8. Use the smallest aperture you can use and still maintain a fairly fast shutter speed. Then focus toward the center of the group, and you should be able to get everyone in focus.


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January 31, 2005

 

Michelle Ross
  When I'm doing most of the group shots I will be able to use a flash so the shutter speed shouldn't be a problem. I had planned to try to use f16 for the group shots. This group won't be overly large either so that will help! Thanks for the response!


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January 31, 2005

 

Jon Close
  Are you using a high-powered accessory speedlight, or the built-in flash?

Note that the built-in flash is not going to have enough power to use f/16. At ISO 200 it only has enough power to properly light subjects to about 3 feet away.

Ballpark guesstimate:
12 people arranged 4 wide and 3 deep. With the 50mm lens you'll probably be ~17 feet away. Focused to 18 feet and set to f/2.8, depth of field will be from 16 near limit to 21 ft far limit. This should be just enough DoF (f/4-f/5.6 would be better), but even at f/2.8 the built-in flash is at its usable limit at ISO 200.


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February 01, 2005

 

Kerry L. Walker
  I guess I assumed you were using an accessory light. Built in lights are really great for causing red-eye but are otherwise pretty useless. Besides that, they run the battery on the camera down a lot faster. Use an accessory light and set your aperature at f/4-f/5.6 as Jon suggests and you will do well.


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February 01, 2005

 

Michelle Ross
  I have an accessory flash that I can use. I would like to avoid as much flash as possible because if I"m too close it always washes the people out no matter how I seem to adjust the head. I also have a 28-80 lens and a 28-100 lens that I can use. I just figured the 50mm would be sharper. Should I consider one of the other lenses?? The wedding party is small. 3 attendants each and 2 or 3 ushers so for the wedding party we are looking at 10-11 people. I do have the stofen omni bounce that I can put on my flash as well. At least with Digital I can right away if the flash is too strong but I just don't want to have to take a bunch of "test" shots which will be time consuming.


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February 01, 2005

 

Kerry L. Walker
  Use the accessory flash and the bounce. Don't worry about the "test" shots. It is better to take a little time and get it right. Several years ago there was a big difference between the sharpness of primes and zooms but the difference is not as great now. Use whichever lens lets you get the shot.


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February 01, 2005

 

barry ellis
  If your not using a support i.e.. tripod/monopod etc, a rule of thumb is to make sure you have at least the size of your lens as the shutter speed, say 50mm lens = speed of 50th sec, 100mm lens =100th sec, to help alleviate camera shake, be careful how you use flash, fill in flash done properly is great, but as you commented that the shutter speed would not be a problem as your using flash, then you could end up with awful shadows and reflections, (Windows glass's etc)A 50mm is a good choice but be careful using full on flash.


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February 01, 2005

 

Maria Melnyk
  Too much confusion here. Unless I missed it, Michelle didn't state whether this would be an indoor shot with flash, or outdoor. Let's assume indoor. You don't need to worry about stopping action with shutter speed; the flash will stop the action. If you don't have your camera on a tripod, use a shutter speed of 1/30. Your f-stop should be f/8 if you have up to 3 rows of people with a 50mm lens, or f/11 with more than 3 rows. Focus not into the middle of the group; focus one-third of the way into it; that gives you the maximum sharpness. Example: 6 rows of people - focus on the 2nd row, so that 1/3 of the group is in front of the focus point, and 2/3 behind it. This is how you get maximum depth of field with your chosen aperture.
Now, here's a better way. Put your camera on a tripod. Meter for the ambient light and use a cable release. So, if your meter says, say f/8 at 1/8 second, set the camera for that, or for 1/2 stop under, and let the auto flash be the fill flash. This gives you great lighting, and no black holes of darkness. Don't go below 1/8, or perhaps 1/4 of a second; people will move and ruin the photograph.
If outdoors, don't go by the "use the smallest f-stop you can use" rule. What if you can use f/22? Do you want that background competing with your subjects? Or do you want it slightly blurred for a 3-dimensional effect? Outdoors is where you need to be more concerned with stopping action with your shutter speed, but indoors, a hand-held 1/30 is best.


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February 03, 2005

 

Michelle Ross
  HI Maria and all! I guess I didn't say it is an indoor wedding. For the ceremony (between the invocation and benediction) I can use no flash. I have the 50mm 1.7 lens for those shots that I hope will work assuming I can be close enough which I think I will be able to be. The wedding party is small so it won't be a huge group either. I took some pictures of the flowers yesterday and experimented with the aperatures and things, manual focus, etc. I don't have a cable release but I've been just using my self timer for some of the still life type shots.

Thanks for the information. It's very helpful and appreciated from everyone!


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February 03, 2005

 
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